Super-Dave
New member
Outside of price is there any advantage to choosing one over the other?
Nickel plated shot or Copper plated shot?
Nickel plated shot or Copper plated shot?
Nickel plated shot vs Copper plated shot!
- Thread starter Super-Dave
- Start date
oneounceload
Moderator
Both will help protect shot from becoming deformed when fired. Nickel tends to be harder than copper as a rule.
With all of these X vs. Y threads, are you looking for things for particular purposes, or just increasing your awareness of things?
With all of these X vs. Y threads, are you looking for things for particular purposes, or just increasing your awareness of things?
Super-Dave
New member
What better way to learn things than to ask questions.
I know I annoy people on this site but where else can a go to get educated opinions on these topics?
I know I annoy people on this site but where else can a go to get educated opinions on these topics?
If I understand correctly the "plating" is more of a sales gimic than anything else. If you look at plated shot, after it has been down range, you can see that the "plating" is hardly more than a wash.
Of more importance is how HARD the underlying lead is. Lead that is properly chilled and has sufficent alloy content, tin/antimony or whatever, holds up better.
Also important is how well the pellets are protected from the barrel and from the explosive forces of the powder as they are driven down the barrel. Buffers and good shot cups in other words.
Strikes me that "plated" shot almost always is part of a overall load that employs buffers, good shot cups and hard shot. It's not the plating that matters but rather the "plated" shot is generally a indication that those other very important factors have been addressed.
I think..................
Of more importance is how HARD the underlying lead is. Lead that is properly chilled and has sufficent alloy content, tin/antimony or whatever, holds up better.
Also important is how well the pellets are protected from the barrel and from the explosive forces of the powder as they are driven down the barrel. Buffers and good shot cups in other words.
Strikes me that "plated" shot almost always is part of a overall load that employs buffers, good shot cups and hard shot. It's not the plating that matters but rather the "plated" shot is generally a indication that those other very important factors have been addressed.
I think..................
oneounceload
Moderator
No problem SD - just asking so I know which approach to try and answer those questions I have some knowledge on. Ask away....
Yes plating, in conjunction with good buffering inside the shell really helps. Typically those pellets are the "magnum" variety - that is, 5-6% antimony, making them harder than simple chilled shot. Coupled with a proper choke, they tend to hold patterns better at longer ranges than shells without all of the above.
Yes plating, in conjunction with good buffering inside the shell really helps. Typically those pellets are the "magnum" variety - that is, 5-6% antimony, making them harder than simple chilled shot. Coupled with a proper choke, they tend to hold patterns better at longer ranges than shells without all of the above.
Yes the plating on steel shot prevents corrosion which can glue the shot together forming a solid mass that will damage the choke and break the barrel !!
On lead shot the plating reduces deformation therefore giving a better pattern.
There is a big difference in lead and steel as far as barrel damage . NEVER use steel shot in a gun not recommended for steel shot by the manufacterer !!
On lead shot the plating reduces deformation therefore giving a better pattern.
There is a big difference in lead and steel as far as barrel damage . NEVER use steel shot in a gun not recommended for steel shot by the manufacterer !!
oneounceload
Moderator
Many older barrels are NOT steel shot rated. They came with very tight chokes and have thinner walls. Firing steel loads can, at the least, cause your barrels to bulge; at the other extreme that may cause barrels to split or rupture.
A trip to a competent smith for proper evaluation would be in order.
A trip to a competent smith for proper evaluation would be in order.
Shawn Dodson
Moderator
Plating just makes the pellets pretty.
What's important is whether or not the pellets are hardened lead.
Many plated pellets are not constructed of hardened lead.
What's important is whether or not the pellets are hardened lead.
Many plated pellets are not constructed of hardened lead.
The hardness of the lead alloy the pellets are made from makes more difference than plating or lack of it. Plating is one more way to help keep pellets round, and round pellets tend to fly straighter and therefore pattern better. Good wad columns that absorb some of the impact of the powder charge going off, shot cups that keep pellets from contacting the bore as they travel down the barrel, and buffering material to help keep pellets separated also help keep pellets round until they exit the muzzle. All those things are typical of 'premium' shotgun ammunition, and will usually produce better patterns.
As to copper vs. nickel- I doubt there's a lot of difference. There's not an appreciable thickness of either in place.
And btw, if you want to know something, you SHOULD ask questions. It's the easiest way to learn. Probably the cheapest, too- it's expensive to make all the mistakes on your own
.
fwiw,
lpl
As to copper vs. nickel- I doubt there's a lot of difference. There's not an appreciable thickness of either in place.
And btw, if you want to know something, you SHOULD ask questions. It's the easiest way to learn. Probably the cheapest, too- it's expensive to make all the mistakes on your own
.fwiw,
lpl
A couple things....
First, ask any questions you have, AFTER you've checked the archives and found little/no input. I personally would appreciate you framing your queries in a format that doesn't use vs or either/or structures.
Second, plating seems to help most when used on hard, rounder pellets. I've shot some pigeon loads that were outstanding and used nickel plated shot.
The big money in shotgunning is in live pigeon shooting in Europe and Mexico. Thousands of dollars can ride on each bird.
The favored loads for this game tend to use plated shot and premium components throughout.
Back in the days before steel, I used some copper plated 2s for geese and 4s for ducks. They worked well and may have done extra damage by penetrating better.
First, ask any questions you have, AFTER you've checked the archives and found little/no input. I personally would appreciate you framing your queries in a format that doesn't use vs or either/or structures.
Second, plating seems to help most when used on hard, rounder pellets. I've shot some pigeon loads that were outstanding and used nickel plated shot.
The big money in shotgunning is in live pigeon shooting in Europe and Mexico. Thousands of dollars can ride on each bird.
The favored loads for this game tend to use plated shot and premium components throughout.
Back in the days before steel, I used some copper plated 2s for geese and 4s for ducks. They worked well and may have done extra damage by penetrating better.
Grandpatime
Moderator
steel shot is safe if your handloading and you use telfon wraps from bpi if your barrel inst choked tighter than mod.
nickel shot from bpi has the hardness,of steel because of the way the make it in particular .Nickel shot doesnt deform after entering flesh so its not good on game like turkey etc.
nickel shot from bpi has the hardness,of steel because of the way the make it in particular .Nickel shot doesnt deform after entering flesh so its not good on game like turkey etc.