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Neck sizing is specifically recommended against for semi-autos with floating firing pins, like the AR, M1A, Garand, and the various foreign designs. The reasons are that it feeds less freely and is more likely to jam with the rapid feeding and chambering of a semi-auto, and because a case that hangs up at just the wrong moment on the way into the chamber can result in a slamfire or an OOB (Out Of Battery) firing, causing damage to the gun. For semi-autos, cases need to be resized fully.
Since not only the straight-sided neck but also the rest of the case body are resized, a simple carbide ring, with its small contact area cannot be used to resize bottleneck cases. The whole body has to contact the die, regardless of whether it is made of steel like most reloading dies, or carbide like commercial grade reloading dies. So, either way, the cases require high-pressure lubricant to be put on them. (As someone who's had a stuck case in a carbide .223 die, I can confirm this is so.) So you will have a lubrication and usually a lubrication cleaning-off activity associated with bottleneck cases. The .357 Sig is an exception, however, as its neck is so short and shoulder so slight that Redding is able to make a tapered carbide sizing button for it. Check with them for details on resizing that particular cartridge, as lube may not be necessary, but I don't know from personal experience as I don't reload for that round.
Since the whole body of a bottleneck case touches the die, as the case enters the die, the sides get narrowed down, which squeezes the shoulder forward, actually lengthening the case. When the shoulder is formed back to correct length, the excess brass flows into the neck area. Part of this goes forward, causing the need to trim the case, and part of it goes inward, forming an internal donut ring at the base of the neck. If you use a load that seats the bullet that far into the neck, it can be interfered with by that donut, necessitation that it be removed every few load cycles with an inside neck reamer.
So, overall, if you clean cases to protect your dies from scratching, you'll clean once for that and again to remove lubricant (though some just wipe it off the finished ammunition and a few just ignore it an leave it in place. You'll need to trim. You'll want to chamfer and deburr the trimmed cases. So there's more work after resizing. When you've loaded cases several times, you'll learn how much they grow at each resizing and can typically trim them back enough so they don't need trimming every load cycle, but you'll want to keep checking them. Some will grow more than others during resizing.
For semi-autos with floating firing pins, you'll also want to watch that primer seating is as complete as possible. Primers should be at least -0.003" below flush with the back of the case head for slamfire protection. -0.004" is more common. High primers need to be avoided and don't produce consistent ignition anyway, raising velocity variation, even when they do function properly.
The extra steps make reloading for bottleneck cases fit into progressive loading less easily than straight wall cases. It is common to clean them off and resize them and pull them right off the press again and clean them and trim them before going on to the priming station. You'll have to experiment with workflow some to see how you want to do this.
