Newbie Reloading Questions

1

1972RedNeck

New member
I have been reloading for over 5 years, but still very new to it. I have only used a Hornady press, Hornady dies, Hornady bullets, and Hornady load data. Very comfortable with the process and looking to branch out to cheaper bullets. Bought the following bullets for my 357 mag, and my 45 ACP/45 Colt/454 Casull:

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1021120994?pid=371672

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1021119937?pid=556629

What do I use for load data for different bullets? My Lyman 50th and Hornady manual both have data for these weights of bullets, but not these bullets specifically. Since the OAL length is the same, the seating depth is different, which can change pressure drastically.

How do I know how to load them?

Also, how fast can I push them? I like extra hot loads but don't want any leading...
 
Correct fitment and assembly is critical for the assembly of powerful and accurate loads with cast bullets.

Lyman makes a cast bullet handbook #4. I recommend you should read it. It's available online where books are sold.

Do they pass through the revolver cylinder with minimal effort? Get a bullet and push it through with a pen. Light effort is ideal.

If they do not push through easily they might scrape the bullets coating off and cause horrific leading.

It is necessary to both expand deeper, and sometimes crimp deeper, with cast bullets. These are not xtp bullets that can be slip fit by chamfering the case mouth.

The amount of each, you have to find out with your particular dies, brass, bullets, gun.

The heavy loads may walk out of the cases under recoil, you will have to test that for yourself.

If you want an extra margin of safety and reduced pressure, load in 357 brass using 38+P powder charge to start the work up, and work your way up, to stop when leading or accuracy become problematic.

You can also use powder charge data for a bullet of heavier weight if you are lacking data.

What gun powders do you intend to assemble with?

What guns are you testing with?

I cast and powder coat my own semi wadcutters and send them on their way at warp speed and they do not lead, and are accurate and satisfactorily powerful.
 
Will either be loading with 2400, 4227, H110, or W231.

357 is a S&W 627

45 Colt/45 ACP is a Taurus Judge

454 Casull is a Super Redhawk

H110 probably isn't the best powder to start with I assume?
 
Load them using cast bullet data not jacketed data . Hodgdon has cast lead data on there website
https://www.hodgdonreloading.com/reloading-data-center?rdc=true&type=53 . Lyman makes a cast lead manual that is very helpfull .
https://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Cast-B...=1681358863&sprefix=lyman+cast,aps,158&sr=8-2

When bullets have crimp groves I seat to properly crimp into that grove start low and work your way up .

You are not going to want to push lead to hard so at first Id stay in the low charges of your magnum cartridges or there special counter parts 38spl and 45colt im assuming is the 454 casual special equivalent . You’ll notice there is very little lead data pushing any bullet from any cartridge faster then 1200fps . Your 45acp is gtg any charges with in spec . No full throttle magnum charges using lead with out gas checks although some do it , since you’re new-ish I recommend you KISS and later push them hard if you so desire.

My go to 357 load with Missouri bullets 158gr lead SWC is 5gr W-231 using standard primers . Crazy accurate out of my Ruger GP-100 with low recoil .

Sorry don’t have or load for 45colt or 454 . W-231 is a great powder for 45acp .
 
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The load manuals are good advice.
Cast bullets must be a proper ft to the bore/groove dia. .001 over groove dia will usually work. Undersize is not good. Gas jetting around a bullet will cause leading.

Crimping when loading revolvers with cast bullets is important. You want a roll crimp into a crimping groove. Its critical to ignition.
Another post advised your bullet should slip fit through the cylinder throat,That will do fine! Now think of what happens if your crimp is lacking and your magnum primer fires. Without resistance to build heat and pressure,to some degree your bullet and powder get blown out of the case,to that leaky cylinder gap,then to the forcing cone.
Different powders are more or less sensitive. And,if you rock loads with significant recoil, inertia will pull your bullets. Not good.
H-110? And its twin,WW-296, is a specialized powder. A very good powder,in the right load. Its NOT flexible. Go to the Hodgdon site Note minimum and maximum loads for 44 Magnum (for example) It might be a range of 1 or 2 grains total. Now look at the pressure rise for 2 tenths of a grain. A lot!!! Several thousand psi Whats that tell you? No adlibbing! Use recommended,tested published loads only.

But its my favorite full power 44 magnum powder.

Gas checks? Mixed feelings. If I"M the one tapping them on the bullet bases,then crimping them on in the Lyman sizer/luber, I do not love them. Its a PITA. We were casting a LOT of wheelweight bullets then . I had a 2 cavity approx 245 gr Keith SWC for the 44. 429421 as I recall. I set it up in the Bridgeport and bored the gas check feature out of the mold. Tried a bunch of bullets. Full power max H-110 loads. No leading,good accuracy. I pretty much quit gas checks. YMMV. Now,for something like 30-40 Krag rifle loads I'd use them.

Use your manual, but I'd guess you can get a solid load with 2400 for most of what you list except 45ACP and 231 should cover that.
 
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Although you bought coated bullets, I would, in the future, consider copper plated bullets. They will cost less than jacketed, a little more than coated. But they can be loaded using cast OR jacketed data, up to around 1200 fps. Berrys is a leading supplier. https://www.berrysmfg.com/
and also has extensive advice, FAQ's etc. on there web site.
The copper plating is as thick as the copper jacket on bullets, and is available in even thicker plating, for popular bullets, and can endure up to 1500 fps.
 
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