Newbie question: whatelse can I do to pull bullets?

meandmyrifle

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I loaded 100 round of 30-06 with Hornady match (HPBT) 168 gr bullets the first time. But I used the load I used with Hornady SST 165 gr bullets (in the Hornady handbook, they are the same). And for match, the load is too hot. I have to pull these rounds and save whatever I can save.

I bought an inertia puller, it works for the dummy rounds I tested. I tested several times with the dummy rounds to learn how to use the tool. With the experience, I have no doubt about the tool itself.

However, when it comes to these Hornady match 168gr rounds, the bullets are just not budging. I tried about 8 rounds and none of them showed any sign of coming out. I tried on wood block, concrete as some other thread suggested. I yet to so a positive outcome.

I also found a thread in this forum mentioned the Grip N Pull tool and a reply about using pliers. I did try the pliers with electric tape, however, the bullet is still not budging even with the pliers leaving tooth marks on the bullet.

At this point, I am not so concern about saving bullets or casing. I just want to have a safe way of dismantle them.

Questions:
1. will the overloaded powder give trouble for the bullets to come out?
2. I've banged a few rounds for 100+ times, should I try some 100s more with the inertia puller?
3. any tips on how to use the inertia puller more efficiently?
4. is the Grip N Pull gonna be different than a pair of pliers? Should I try?
5. any other suggestions?

Please help. Thanks a lot in advance!
 
RCBS sells a bullet pulling die & collets.
Collets are a separate purchase & come in sizes for different bullets.

Uses your press to remove the bullet & saves the case, powder & primer.

I've never used this but..............I've never had your kind of problem either.

Good luck.
 
Here is the way an inertia bullet puller is intended to be used. First off, don't use it like a hammer and pounding nails. Instead give it a hefty whack on a solid wooden block like you are doing, BUT let the puller rebound freely on its own, just maintaining a light grip on it, and not holding back any on the rebound. But from the sound of things, that may not do the job either. Not understandable why the bullets are so tight.

I guess you don't need any lecturing on not loading so many rounds before trying some out, so we won't lecture. :)
 
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Thanks guys! You rock!

The RCBS bullet puller die and collet worked. But the bullets were really fighting. I had to tighten the collet so much that the bullets are squeezed down one size to pull them out. And yet some still not coming out. I might have to acquire the next smaller size collet to try again on those.

It explains why the inertia puller didn't work on them. It also explains why this load became a hot load while previous loads with SST were fine, sort of.

But, still not sure why this box of match HPBT bullets are so tight. All the brasses had been used at least once before.

On the upside, with reloading, I can save my gym membership :)
 
It is indeed a lesson learned on trying new stuff :)

Some of my colleagues wanted to have a range meeting, I wanted to have plenty of ammo for them to shoot with. And SST happened to be on back order lately in my town. So I bought this box of match HPBT, and loaded them all.

I am glad that I didn't have to let my guests experience the hot load :D
 
The problem is your crimp or neck tension, to get rid of that you push the bullet into the case with your seating die and then use your inertia hammer to wack them back out. It makes life a lot easier.

Jim

You may want to put a small piece of foam rubber in the tip of the impact hammer to save the bullet from getting mangled.
 
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The collet type die puller is by far the best for rifle bullets. Kinetic pullers work best on pistol bullets, especially lead, where the collet can't get a grip.
 
I've ordered the Hornady Cam-lock bullet puller.

The advantage is that you don't need to reset the collet with every cartridge.

Just raise the ram, drop the cam-locking lever and pull the bullet.

It should arrive at the end of the month and so will soon know what it can do.
 
I've never had good luck with the collet puller.

Pulled over 300rnds 7.62 NATO using the Lyman hammer. Impact surface was the top of my wood stove (summer, NO FIRE IN STOVE).

None had the seal broken by slightly seating them, but 4-6 wacks (if that) the FMJ popped right out.

Couldn't pull them with an inertia puller and had to deform them to get them out with a collet?, something is NOT RIGHT. Suggest you look at everything involved in your case prep and seating methods.
 
I've had excellent results with my RCBS inertia puller. Key to success like others commented is to let the tool rebound, don't fight the rebound like you would holding a traditional hammer, use a very loose hold with your hand. Only disadvantage with the inertia type pullers vs. collet style is the fact you can't inertia pull crimped or steel cased ammo from my experiences.
 
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has anyone had first-hand experience with the Grip N Pull? I have at least 5-600 bullets that need to be pulled. I haven't yet invested in a puller and they are starting to pile up, was hoping the grip n pull would be a one-stop solution
http://grip-n-pull.com/
 
Grip'n'pull: Looks interesting.

In a sense, because one is not torquing a threaded die with a collet with pressure being exerted through a levering arm, I can well imagine that bullet deformation is less likely.

That is my biggest worry with the collet puller I have ordered. I will have to go nice and gently at first with mine.

Is grip strength going to be an issue with those pliers for people of a lighter build though?
 
Jim243 said:
The problem is your crimp or neck tension, to get rid of that you push the bullet into the case with your seating die and then use your inertia hammer to wack them back out. It makes life a lot easier.
I agree. Whenever I have really tight bullet pulling, either using inertia or collet puller, the 1st thing I try is to seat a tad deeper to break the "seal". This usually only happens when pulling bullets from ammo that has been sitting around a long time.

...bug
 
I am the fan of bullet hold, I want all the bullet hold I can get.

I have the Hornady Cam Lock puller, in the beginning I spent more time waiting for parts than I spent using it. I still have it, I do not use it but JIC (just in case).

I have the RCBS collet puller, the 30 cal. collet closes up before it secures the bullet, It works on 8mm. I have another collet puller with no name, it was sold by Herters etc. Both the Herters and RCBS use the same collets. And I have the Inertia hammer, I use shell holders instead of the 3 piece held together with rubber 'O' rings case holder.

And then? There is a chance a reloader does not have a collet or the bullet is soft or any number of excuses. It could depend on the amount of powder in the case, I have seated bullets into the case, then shook the case to remove the powder, after removing the powder I use a neck sizer plug/ball to expand the neck then turn the case upside down to dump the bullet.

F. Guffey
 
I can well imagine that bullet deformation is less likely.

Who measures? I can imagine the collet having more surface would have less effect on the bullet than the thinner jaws of the 'grip-n-pull'. And if you are timid with the adjustment of the collet on the bullet you are not going to pull many bullets.

F. Guffey
 
I can imagine the collet having more surface would have less effect on the bullet than the thinner jaws of the 'grip-n-pull'.

Let's hope so as I've ordered the Hornady collet puller.

And if you are timid with the adjustment of the collet on the bullet you are not going to pull many bullets.

Measured and progressive doesn't have to mean timid. And over-adjust the collet puller and you risk a ring on every ogive, particularly with the Hornady.
 
I pulled about 400 rounds of 30-06 with an RCBS collet puller. Easy Peasy.

As for using the kinetic puller, the best surface to hit is a concrete floor. Give it a good whack!
 
Learning lots of new things :-)

I don't think I purposely crimped the rounds. But at the same time, with these match bullets, I've been using the same bullet seating setting I used for SST.

Is there a way to confirm if the neck had been crimped? I haven't done anything to these empty casing and/or pulled bullets yet. And I have another 50 rounds to confirm if needed.

Neck tension is very interesting topic that I never came across before, reading some posts online and I realized that by having the prepared casing sitting there for long time, the neck tension is likely on the high side.

From watching these rounds that I've pulled, I definitely put too much powder in there, because some rounds had powder squeezed and packed. I had to loosen them with a stick before I can pour them out.

With that much powder in there, is it still possible to push the bullet all the way in the casing? Or do I just have to push in a pinch to get it loosen enough?
 
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