Newbie question on cleaning

hobs

Inactive
I going to pick up my first handgun next week. I've read that I should clean the gun before I fire it. What do I need to clean it? I bought a couple of bronze brushes, silicone gun cloth, patches, a brass rod, and breakfree clp, which is supposed to clean, lubricate, and protect right? Do I need anything else and what is the proper technique to clean the gun?

Thanks inadvance for you time and advice
 
Everyonehas their own methods. I use Hoppes powder solvent and oil along with brass or copper brushes, swabs, and patches. As long as you don't melt any plastic with a harsh solvent or over oil, you should be ok!
 
Hobs,

Before you fire it, give it a light cleaning to ensure that there's nothing inside that shouldn't be there (dirt, fuzzies, metal shavings, etc.). You don't have to bronze brush the barrel, IMHO. Also ensure that there is not too much grease or oil inside.

If you go through the archives, there are many threads on this topic. And, by the way, what did you get?

Ledbetter
 
Thanks PreserveFreedom and Ledbetter,

I know little about cleaning anything, so it's okay to talk down to me. Here's what I would do if I had the gun right now. I would take it apart and then put some breakfree on a patch then run it throught the bore with the rod. Then run dry patches through until they come out clean. But what do I do to rest of the gun? Please give step by step instruction with what tool and type of cleaner. Even if it's not necessary with a new gun, I'd like to know for future reference. After I shoot the gun, I would put some breakfree on a brush and then run it through the bore a couple of time then rinse it under warm water. Then do the wet dry patch thing. Then the do something with the rest of the gun.

Ledbetter, I'm getting a Beretta 87 Cheetah. Initially, I was going to purchase a HK USP compact 9mm, but after reading through the archives I'm going with the advice of learning to shoot with a .22 first, plus the ammo is a lot cheaper so I can practice more. Thanks for the advice TFL.
 
Greetings hobs; If your weapon is an auto loader, and is a little "dry"; use a small
amount of "Break Free CLP"on it before use. It's very important to keep
the slide rails of Beretta's, Sig's, and
Walther's lightly lubricated with this.
On Glock's it's more important for a
small amount to be used around the ejection
port and inside the slide where the barrel
makes contact with it upon recoil. A little
goes a long way; in most cases a "finger
swipe" is sufficent!!!

Best Wishes,
Ala Dan, N.R.A. Life Member
 
Hobs,

When I got my Ruger P97 I cleaned the barrel then shot a couple of boxes of ammo. Afterwards I immediately field stripped it and completely cleaned it. Then I put a light coat of Remoil on everything. Hoppes #9 and Remoil doesn't seem to hurt my synthetic frame but some chemicals might.

NOTE: If its a Ruger P Series its important to clean out as much of the factory grease as possible. If you don't this grease will gum up after a couple of hundred rounds and cause jams.

Congrats on the new gun!

Shok

------------------
"In 1789, when used without any qualifying adjective, 'the militia' referred to all citizens capable of bearing arms."
Akhil Reed Amar, Yale University
 
Hobs,

This is what I do. Take apart the gun.

1. Run the brass brushes through the barrel a few times. Shake the gunk out.

2. Spray a bit of PowerBlast! around, to get most of the preliminary soot off. This stuff works great.

3. Get some Hoppes #9, run a few patches through, it cleans better than PowderBlast. A few quick swipes everywhere with this stuff.

4. Dry it up with a paper towel.

5. Us a LITTLE CLP everywhere, a little down the barrel.

6. Run a few dry patches down the barrel, and dry up the CLP everywhere else, (leave a thin film on the slides).

7. Reassemble, and shoot!

That's it. The first time I cleaned my gun, 3 hours. Second time, 1.5 hours. Now, 18 minutes...

Albert
 
The following is written for rifles rather than handguns, but should still give you an idea of what to do. (This has been through several revisions!)

Removing copper fouling (step 5) probably isn't necessary for a new gun.

Birchwood-Casey Gun Scrubber is great stuff, but expensive! (You can also try using Gunk or GumOut carburetor cleaner; lots cheaper, but may ruin plastic parts or the finish on a wooden stock.)

The break-in procedure is especially important for new firearms, especially rifles, as it enhances accuracy.
Good luck and enjoy!

Proper Gun Cleaning and Break-In
(Cleaning info from Field & Stream, February 1994, p. 71)

Supplies:
Tools:
· One-piece stainless steel or plastic covered steel cleaning rod. (I use a one-piece brass rod and have had no problems.)
· Phosphor-bronze bristle cleaning brushes.
· Correct bore-size patches and 12-gauge patches.
Chemicals:
· Venco Shooter's Choice or Hoppe's No. 9 Powder Solvent
· Birchwood-Casey Gun Scrubber
· Barnes' CR- 10 or Hoppe's Bench Rest No. 9 Copper Solvent
· Rem Oil

Tip: Shooter's Choice and Barnes CR-10 smell bad, use them outside or in the shed or garage; use the Hoppe's products (with adequate ventilation) when you must clean indoors.

Cleaning Procedures
1. Clamp the rifle down in something solid, like a padded vise. Place something under the muzzle to absorb drippings from the it. (I rarely do this step and even less with handguns!)
2. Get a cleaning patch wet, not soaking, with Shooter's Choice or Hoppe's No. 9 and run it through the bore. Throw the dirty patch away and do it another three times with new patches each time. Do it until the patches come out gray instead of black.
3. Drip a few drops of Shooter's Choice or Hoppe's No. 9 on the bristle brush and scrub the bore a dozen times each way. There should be a spiral pattern of black goo in the rod, wipe it off, and clean off the brush with a squirt of Birchwood-Casey Gun Scrubber.
4. Go through the bore with new patches wet with Shooter's Choice or Hoppe's No. 9 until they come out nearly white.
5. Remove the copper fouling:
Using Barnes CR-10:
a. Wet a patch with CR-10 and run it through the bore halfa dozen times, it should now come out blue.
b. Wait a minute and do step 5 again, repeating it until the patch comes out with no blue on it. Using Hoppe's Bench Rest:
a. Run a patch through the bore with some Hoppe's Bench Rest on it.
b. Let it soak for about 12 hours and do it again with a clean patch. Do this until the patch comes out clean. It may take a couple of days.


6. Wipe down the rest of the gun using Hoppe's No. 9 on a 12 gauge cleaning patch or clean it with Birchwood-Casey Gun Scrubber and give it a little oil.
7. Dry the bore thoroughly and give it a coat of oil (Rem Oil, etc.). Then stand it on its muzzle on a newspaper to absorb the extra oil as it runs out.


Breaking-In A New Firearm
(from Sports Afield, January 1994, p. 19)
On a new firearm, for the first nine shots clean the bore after each shot. After the tenth shot, clean the gun thoroughly, until the patch comes out clean. Do the same for the next ten shots. Some recommend this procedure for the next 100 rounds that go through the barrel.

[This message has been edited by seronac (edited July 13, 2000).]
 
Twoblink has the ticket!!!! If you have any problems, repeat as needed several times. That is all. If you have continual FTF's, Stovepipes etc. you need to see a smith.
 
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