I went to the range tried some blackpowder and had to have one. I purchased a nib navy arms revolver and have a few questions. I was looking for a site with some pages of information on all reproductions / collecting and blackpowder use in general. The person i bought this off of said that with new types of powders I can just use normal firearms cleaning practices (hoppes #9 and clp) to clean/lubricate. Is this correct, and second I took it apart and the barrel came out fine ,cleaned it up and when putting it back I pusHed the pin in to far now its stuck,wont come out,yet, and I dont want to ruin this firearm any suggestions?? Thank for the ideas.
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Newbie blackpowder questions
- Thread starter areandare
- Start date
marcseatac
New member
The perfect thing to use getting that wedge out is a brass rod about 3/8 in Dia. ground with a taper on the end down to about 1/4 inch and a plastic hammer. I have heard that golf tee's also work really good.
marcseatac
New member
Also if you got the wedge in too far that means it's sticking out the other side pretty good if you have a rubber or plastic hammer, tapping it back flush into the frame should loosen it up and at least relieve some of the pressure.
As for lubes, I don't think there is much general agreement on what to use. I wouldn't use regular gun cleaning products on BP. The stores sell many BP items that work great. Thompson, CVA, Traditions all make great stuff.
As for lubes, I don't think there is much general agreement on what to use. I wouldn't use regular gun cleaning products on BP. The stores sell many BP items that work great. Thompson, CVA, Traditions all make great stuff.
Clean it with hot soapy water (dish deterrgent), dry, then lube with Bore Butter - stay away from petroleum based lubes with black powder or Pyrodex.
Tap the wedge out with something that won't mar the metal - if it goes in
too far the cylinder won't turn.
Check this site out:
http://www.angelfire.com/ny5/shenandoah/Choy.html
Tap the wedge out with something that won't mar the metal - if it goes in
too far the cylinder won't turn.
Check this site out:
http://www.angelfire.com/ny5/shenandoah/Choy.html
Last edited:
bprevolver
New member
bprevolver
If you are interested in the collecting side of the replica percussion revolvers check out the Replica Percussion Revolver Collector's Association. It is an international organization over twelve years old. http://rprca.tripod.com
If you are interested in the collecting side of the replica percussion revolvers check out the Replica Percussion Revolver Collector's Association. It is an international organization over twelve years old. http://rprca.tripod.com
Pohill,
As you well know, or should, if it goes in too far, and the cylinder doesn't turn, the slots are worn to the point that it locks up.
They are not designed to tap a little, check the forcing cone clearance, tap a little more, check again, when you got it right, shoot it.
They should lock up tight when you push the wedge in by thumb pressure alone.
NO hammer required. ABSOLUTELY NO hammer and drift required to disassemble, either.
IF your arbor is not bottomed out, pushing the wedge in further will close the gap till the cylinder is locked, NO TILT upwards. Just a lockup.
IF some of you will understand the mechanics of this, I won't have to post what this actually means, tomorrow.
Don't want to, all I get is a bunch of bull**** from all you experts, all the "mechanical engineers" that post. Same people who built the Pittsburgh PA Convention Center, 370 million bucks, just had a tractor trailer fall through the floor, and a cherry picker, a mobile crane.
Means little, huh, to have ME after your name?
Cheers,
George
As you well know, or should, if it goes in too far, and the cylinder doesn't turn, the slots are worn to the point that it locks up.
They are not designed to tap a little, check the forcing cone clearance, tap a little more, check again, when you got it right, shoot it.
They should lock up tight when you push the wedge in by thumb pressure alone.
NO hammer required. ABSOLUTELY NO hammer and drift required to disassemble, either.
IF your arbor is not bottomed out, pushing the wedge in further will close the gap till the cylinder is locked, NO TILT upwards. Just a lockup.
IF some of you will understand the mechanics of this, I won't have to post what this actually means, tomorrow.
Don't want to, all I get is a bunch of bull**** from all you experts, all the "mechanical engineers" that post. Same people who built the Pittsburgh PA Convention Center, 370 million bucks, just had a tractor trailer fall through the floor, and a cherry picker, a mobile crane.
Means little, huh, to have ME after your name?
Cheers,
George
George, do you think, maybe, pretty please, there can be one forum where you don't act like a jackass? It's a fun sport, with people offering help to the limit of their knowledge - no one here made the convention center topple, no one claims to be an expert...
If you need a hammer to tap a wedge out then you need a hammer to tap a wedge out. Every gun is different - if it sat unused for a long time, or is brand new, the wedge is going to be tight.
Clarification: when I say hammer, I'm not talking sledge. I have a little mallet with plastic heads that I sometimes use, or a rubber mallet. I would hate for someone to use the wrong hammer and topple buildings as a result.
If you need a hammer to tap a wedge out then you need a hammer to tap a wedge out. Every gun is different - if it sat unused for a long time, or is brand new, the wedge is going to be tight.
Clarification: when I say hammer, I'm not talking sledge. I have a little mallet with plastic heads that I sometimes use, or a rubber mallet. I would hate for someone to use the wrong hammer and topple buildings as a result.
Last edited:
marcseatac
New member
Step away from the keyboard and put down the beer.
Gentle tapping is recommended by Uberti user manual. Choice of tapping instrument to be determined by users common sense!
Gentle tapping is recommended by Uberti user manual. Choice of tapping instrument to be determined by users common sense!
Back "in the day" they smacked the wedge out with the extra cylinder.
I baby my guns, but they know I'm the boss - if I say the wedge comes out, it comes out. Give it up, Ms Colt Repro...
Some guns, I push the wedge out, some I tap it out...
The wedge screw on the left side of the barrel is actually a volume control - turn it all the way down and the neighbors can't hear you screaming at the wedge when it won't come out.
I baby my guns, but they know I'm the boss - if I say the wedge comes out, it comes out. Give it up, Ms Colt Repro...
Some guns, I push the wedge out, some I tap it out...
The wedge screw on the left side of the barrel is actually a volume control - turn it all the way down and the neighbors can't hear you screaming at the wedge when it won't come out.
All is well.
Well thanks for all of the suggestions. Didnt want to fire someone up, but all is well. I took it to a very good smith and he said he needed to shave a little off to make it work better and now no problems , I will be using all of your suggestions and I am looking forward to reading many more posts as I get hooked further into this one. Thanks
Well thanks for all of the suggestions. Didnt want to fire someone up, but all is well. I took it to a very good smith and he said he needed to shave a little off to make it work better and now no problems , I will be using all of your suggestions and I am looking forward to reading many more posts as I get hooked further into this one. Thanks
If the wedge came with the gun, odds are it will never have to be shaved. In fact, I've added a shim to one of my gun's wedges to make it wider.
If you shave it, the barrel/frame connection might become loose over time (maybe a short time), and you'll end up getting a new wedge or, like I said, adding to this one.
If you shave it, the barrel/frame connection might become loose over time (maybe a short time), and you'll end up getting a new wedge or, like I said, adding to this one.