New Uberti - Need Advice

R

RevoRick

New member
Hello Folks, I just picked up a Uberti Cattleman or Regulator. Can't really tell as there are so many stickers on the box covering the model. I think they are pretty much the same gun. Right? Anyway also picked up some .45LC cases, LaserCast 200g bullets and a jug of Titegroup. (Guy at Cabelas suggested Clays but they were out, Titegroup was his second choice.) Currently I own many 1911's, a Glock, and some Smith & Wesson and Dan Wesson revolvers. I bought this gun for target shooting and to experiment with Cowboy guns.
Here are my questions.
1. Any general information a first timer should know?
2. Should I make up some snap caps with casings and hot glue and dry fire to get everything broken in a bit?
3. In doing searches it appears the mainspring on Ubertis tends to break fairly quickly. Should I buy some Wolff replacements now? Are they something I can install myself with little or no smithing experience? Where would be the best place to get them inexpensivly.
4. Any pet loads you are willing to share. I also have Unique, PowerPistol, 800x, and now Titegroup powders. What about Trailboss?
5. Anything else you want to tell me.

This is quite a laundry list so I thank you in advance for helping me out.
 
as with any single action gun besides ruger and ruger style coil spring guns, that spring will wear out, but only in time. Alot of first timers will leave the gun alone and just shoot it to get used to it, but if you arent satisfied with the trigger then you could go with wolf springs. I think that alot of single actions are perfectly fine out of the box, and they will give a hearty life. But if you start fanning, and alot of people do with these guns, it will cut down the spring life FAST. I believe offset-hand slip hammering is OK in these guns, but only if you pace yourself, and dont go faster then your ability to make hits.
 
The basic SAA mainspring is pretty stout and not prone to breakage. I don't know anything about Ubertis that would make the Eyetalian versions weak.

The other springs are a different matter. The hand and trigger/bolt springs are not any stronger or more durable than they just have to be in any SAA or close copy. Trigger/bolt springs are readily replaced if you can learn or figure out how to take the gun apart and put it back together. Too bad the makers think we are all of a sudden too stupid to do that, and have quit putting out instructions.

The hand spring is tight in its slot in the hand and is more trouble to change out. The best thing, if it does break, is to have the gun "Rugerized." That is to have a knowledgeable gunsmith replace the thin leaf spring with a coil spring and plunger as used in Rugers. Has to have the hole drilled in exactly the right place.

I don't load .45 Colt but just go by the Cowboy data in your Hodgdon manual for that Titegroup and you will be ok. Don't go too low on powder with those light 200 grain bullets.
 
I recently bought a Uberti .45 Colt replica. It has the coil spring/plunger set up for the hand spring, not a flat leaf captive in the hand itself as my cap & ball replicas have.

Steve
 
With my umbertis I had to take them apart and lube everything to help smooth them out the hammer mainsprings will break ( and are overly heavy)if you shoot them enough But Haveing the colt clones Brownells sells a convertion kit to put the ruger style coil spring in them. The colts are rrealy easy to take apart and reasemble. there are a number of books or videos showing how to due this if you are uncomfortable just jumping into it.
 
i would say if you can help it buy a ruger vaquero and never regret it. Also on gunblast.com they have a poor boy trigger job that they perform on a vaquero, and they seem to have good results in reducing trigger pull. Going to buy blackhawk after i get working again, take it apart before shooting look for burs, rough spots, lift one of the trigger return springs, lightly oil it and take it out shootin and never worry with anything but routine maintenance.
 
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