New to Rifle Reloading need help please

T

The_Jerkman

New member
Hello everyone

Names Jeff I am planning on getting into reloading for my latest addition a .300Wby. I plan to start reloading for the rifle come the middle/end of July for an upcoming mule deer & antelope hunt first week of October. I currently shotshell reload, but this will be my first adventure into rifle cartridge reloading. I recently picked up a RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme Master Kit which included:

• Rock Chucker Supreme Press
• M500 Mechanical Scale
• Uniflow™ Powder Measure
• Hand Priming Tool
• Universal Case Load Block
• .17-.60 Debur Tool
• Hex Key Set
• Case Lube Kit
• Powder Funnel
• Nosler #7 Reloading Manual

Any recommendations on who makes the best book? The nosler book only seems to include nosler bullets, go figure. I want to use my barnes tsx 180 grains.


I was wondering what else I'll be needing to get started for cooking up some precision rounds as well as any suggestions to models/brands of each equipment recommended. Thank you guys in advanced and I look forward to learning a ton here!

Jeff "The Jerkman"

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Welcome to the forum.
I was wondering what else I'll be needing to get started for cooking up some precision rounds
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Reloading for bottle neck rifle rounds is a complicated process, especially if you want the kind of ammo you say.
It's far more work than either shotgun or most pistols.
Absolutely begin with a good reference, as you have mentioned.
And take a gander at the better reloading company web sites to get an idea of the equipment you might (probably) need.
Like http://www.sinclairintl.com/ and http://www.brownells.com/ for starters.
 
Check out Redding case trimmer and gage are top quality and handy.

I started with the old 300 Wby. It's a powerful starter. Pressures can be on the hot side and over blown and a lot of work to get a fine load.

I believe you will eventually find you don't need that round for the lower 48. If you want to take on Moose Elk or Alaska a 338 Win. or 375 will drop those big boys better with the heavier slug.

For deer, Black bear, and Antelope. A 308 can be very hard to beat. The 308 can reach out with fine accuracy.

A 308 and a good quality scope and proper sling is all you need and you won't be flinching... Take your time to learn how to shoot from all positions and you will be able to bag your game. Accuracy is more important than Velocity.

Remember to always start at the light loads and slowly work up to avoid pressure spikes when loading the Wby. Don't be in a hurry and always double check your process.

That is my 40 years of experience.
I wish you well what ever you decide on.
 
Almost everyone has the Lyman 49th edition loading manual; you will want one also. That manual is often quoted for loading data and includes above average listings for cast lead bullets, should you get into that. As far as other equipment, often it is necessary to disassemble rounds that have gone astray for some reason. For that purpose a bullet puller is needed. There are two varieties, a collet type for individual bullet calibers that screw into the loading press and usually the fastest if a large number of bullets are to be pulled, and the plastic hammer inertia type puller. The latter is more general purpose and will handle most any cartridge and bullet diameter. The inertia puller is probably the best way to go. Hopefully you'll never be confronted with the task of pulling hundreds of bullets.

Another common tool is a case neck trimmer. Reasonably priced manual trimmers like a Forster or RCBS look like a small lathe. They come with a collet to fit the case rim and a pilot to fit the bullet caliber so the cartridge(s) with bullet caliber (s) need to be identified when ordering one. Along with that a case neck deburring tool is needed following case neck trimming (you have one included in your list).

Other items that "you can't live without" will pop up along the way. For instance you might want to consider a bench mounted primer tool like the RCBS automatic (but it is still manually operated) rather than the hand priming tool. The "automatic" designation of the RCBS and similar priming tools will be apparent when seen in operation.
 
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For new reloaders I say use the manual for the bullet you're gonna use. In your case a Barns manual. Stick to the published loads, starting loads at first, and specific OAL for the particular bullet you choose. After getting several hundred rounds under your belt, and you have a "feeling" for what you're doing (loads, pressures, etc.) you can try other bullets, powders etc....;)
 
You will also need

Calipers
http://www.midwayusa.com/s?userSearchQuery=calipers

Case trimmer
http://www.midwayusa.com/s?targetLo...&Ns=p_metric_sales_velocity%7C1&Ntpc=1&Ntpr=1

Dies for the calibers you want to load . ( RCBS , Hornady , Redding )
http://www.midwayusa.com/s?userSearchQuery=300+weatherby+magnum+dies

Shell holder for each caliber in not included with the die set
http://www.midwayusa.com/shellholders-and-shellplates/br?cid=19786

Set of check weights ( some may not think so but I feel there a must )
http://www.midwayusa.com/s?userSearchQuery=check+weights

Powder trickler
http://www.midwayusa.com/s?userSearchQuery=powder+trickler

Bullet puller ( we all end up using them at some point )
http://www.midwayusa.com/s?userSearchQuery=bullet+puller

and of course powder and primers
 
Yes, calipers will eventually become a necessity. There are two common types defined by the way the readouts are displayed, one is a mechanically dial readout usually in inches, and the other an electronic digital readout in millimeters and/or inches that displays in a window. Both are calibrated within .001" accuracy range but some up to .0005" accuracy, and both types can be viewed in the above MidwayUSA link to calipers. The digital readout calipers are usually the most expensive. Between a 6" or an 8" length caliper, best choice is probably the 8 inch which provides up to 6" measurement range and, perhaps more important, easier to handle than the shorter length. When using the digital caliper, which uses a battery, always zero the setting before measuring.
 
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condor bravo said:
Yes, calipers will eventually become a necessity. There are two common types defined by the way the readouts are displayed, one is a mechanically dial readout usually in inches, and the other an electronic digital readout in millimeters and/or inches that displays in a window. Both are calibrated within .001" accuracy range but some up to .0005" accuracy, and both types can be viewed in the above MidwayUSA link to calipers. The digital readout calipers are usually the most expensive. Between a 6" or an 8" length caliper, best choice is probably the 8 inch which provides up to 6" measurement range and, perhaps more important, easier to handle than the shorter length. When using the digital caliper, which uses a battery, always zero the setting before measuring.
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Condor, any suggestions for the add-ons for measuring the bullet seating? I can't recall what it's called but the piece that goes on the calipers that helps measure bullet length but also won't cause any changes to the actual bullet. My main goal at least for this time being is to make a round that's comprable to the weatherby factory 180gr barnes tsx rounds. 5 bucks a pull is getting a little steep and figure if I can make the same round if not a better one for less than half the cost why the hell not?

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Also does anyone have a favorite set of dies for their precision reloads? Full length vs neck. I think I am leaning more towards the redding dies as the consensus seems to be those are the crème de la crème

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The term you are looking for is comparator

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/23...ad-bullet-comparator-basic-set-with-6-inserts

and anvil
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/584824/hornady-lock-n-load-bullet-comparator-anvil-base-kit

IMHO for the type of ammo and what you're using it for as well as caliber . I recommend you just use a quality standard FL sizing die . For hunting and shooting in (in the field positions ) I don't feel you are going to see a difference in accuracy if you don't use the high end dies like bushing dies . I'd think in your case a competition seating die could help . Neck only sizing hunting rounds is fine but I'd always FL size to insure the cases feed and chamber with out resistance .

Now if you get into long range target shooting those answers would change but for these specific set of circumstances . A good quality standard die set should work just fine . Redding is never a bad choice .

I'd say something like this
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/542979/redding-master-hunter-2-die-set-300-weatherby-magnum

Although I'm not sure if those are the right size . I'm confused now seeing how the first set of dies in that dies link above are 6.5 300 weatherby mag . I did not know you can have a 6.5mm 300 weatherby ?? maybe you can explain how that works
 
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So it seems that unless I plan on shooting out to 1k yards I won't really need competition resizers and that set with only the micrometer settings being on the seating should be perfect. Also ordered up the lyman 50th this morning. Thanks for the good look Flash!

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If you are planning on using Barnes TSX, you need Barnes load data. Rifle bullets come in three basic flavors: Solid copper, solid lead, and jacketed lead. Make sure your data matches bullet type.
 
Red_Eagle said:
If you are planning on using Barnes TSX, you need Barnes load data. Rifle bullets come in three basic flavors: Solid copper, solid lead, and jacketed lead. Make sure your data matches bullet type.
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Yes plan on also purchasing a copy of the latest barnes book

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Have you shot factory ammo with Barnes bullets? Barnes bullets are normally seated .030-070" off the lands.

Barnes manual for 300 Wby has OAL min 3.390" max 3.560". I shoot 270 Wby without the freebore so I can seat mine off the lands. If you got Nosler manual # 8 read page 550 and that explain Wby freebore and how to load for them.
 
old roper said:
Have you shot factory ammo with Barnes bullets? Barnes bullets are normally seated .030-070" off the lands.

Barnes manual for 300 Wby has OAL min 3.390" max 3.560". I shoot 270 Wby without the freebore so I can seat mine off the lands. If you got Nosler manual # 8 read page 550 and that explain Wby freebore and how to load for them.
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Will have to check the nosler 7 that i have to see if they have a page on it, I'm sure they do but probably just different pages. And I've only shot the factory weatherby rounds with the barnes tsx bullets out of the gun, figured why mess with a system if its still sub moa at 200 using that combo of wby factory 180 gr tsx

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