New to reloading
- Thread starter ctoler88
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jwrowland77
New member
Definitely get the ABCs of Reloading book. Great book. Also, try and find a mentor. Extremely valuable to have a mentor. I have one from when I started almost 5 years ago, and I can't explain how valuable it's been to have a mentor. Plus, were more friends now. Great guy. Actually a member of this forum.
Rifle and handgun, you can get started on the same press. I would recommend a single stage of some sort. It helped me tremendously when I bought my progressive. If I had started on a progressive, I may have been overwhelmed with all the moving parts. YMMV.
Shotgun is a completely different press. I won't comment because I don't currently reload shotshell.
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Rifle and handgun, you can get started on the same press. I would recommend a single stage of some sort. It helped me tremendously when I bought my progressive. If I had started on a progressive, I may have been overwhelmed with all the moving parts. YMMV.
Shotgun is a completely different press. I won't comment because I don't currently reload shotshell.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Welcome to the wonderful, oft confusing and frustrating world of reloading.
Martys is right about a text, The ABCs of Reloading. Also a Lyman's 50th Editon Reloading handbook has an excellent "How To" section. After reading these you will have an idea about how and why of each reloading step and the equipment you'll need for your reloading needs. It'll be difficult for a new reloader to sift through the "facts" and suggestions and determine which are real or which are old wive's tales, so check in your text about hints/recommendations. You'll get some suggestions for tools and stuff that aren't needed to get started, so you'll have to decide for yourself. (I started with a Lee Loader, a mallet, a 4"x24" log, one pound of Bullseye, one hundred CCI primers and 100 generic lead bullets. I reloaded 38 Specials for a bit over a year like this. Unfortunately, I wasn't acquainted with reloading manuals for the first 6 months or so and I just used the instruction/data sheet from my Lee Loader).
You are gonna get a ton of "buy this, buy that, or you can't reload without this..." posts, but for a new reloader I say K.I.S.S. Nuttin' wrong with starting on a single stage press, the manufacturer doesn't matter that much though many will argue that their choice is the only equipment to use.. I have been reloading for a bunch of years and in all that time i have only found one manufacturer to produce bad equipment (and nope, it ain't Lee). 99.9% is personal preference.
One hint I alway give new reloaders; pay very little (no) attention to load data from any forum expert, range rat, gun counter clerk, pet loads website, or gun shop guru. Get all your data (powder charges, primers to use, and finished ammo dimensions) from published reloading manuals. While most "helpers" are just trying to be helpful, it's your ammo, your guns, your body that may be in jeopardy from a wild load. I have used this for over 30 years and have only had one instance of a squib, and there are many, many combinations of components and loads that will keep you busy for years...
Go slow, double check everything and most important, have fun...
Martys is right about a text, The ABCs of Reloading. Also a Lyman's 50th Editon Reloading handbook has an excellent "How To" section. After reading these you will have an idea about how and why of each reloading step and the equipment you'll need for your reloading needs. It'll be difficult for a new reloader to sift through the "facts" and suggestions and determine which are real or which are old wive's tales, so check in your text about hints/recommendations. You'll get some suggestions for tools and stuff that aren't needed to get started, so you'll have to decide for yourself. (I started with a Lee Loader, a mallet, a 4"x24" log, one pound of Bullseye, one hundred CCI primers and 100 generic lead bullets. I reloaded 38 Specials for a bit over a year like this. Unfortunately, I wasn't acquainted with reloading manuals for the first 6 months or so and I just used the instruction/data sheet from my Lee Loader).
You are gonna get a ton of "buy this, buy that, or you can't reload without this..." posts, but for a new reloader I say K.I.S.S. Nuttin' wrong with starting on a single stage press, the manufacturer doesn't matter that much though many will argue that their choice is the only equipment to use.. I have been reloading for a bunch of years and in all that time i have only found one manufacturer to produce bad equipment (and nope, it ain't Lee). 99.9% is personal preference.
One hint I alway give new reloaders; pay very little (no) attention to load data from any forum expert, range rat, gun counter clerk, pet loads website, or gun shop guru. Get all your data (powder charges, primers to use, and finished ammo dimensions) from published reloading manuals. While most "helpers" are just trying to be helpful, it's your ammo, your guns, your body that may be in jeopardy from a wild load. I have used this for over 30 years and have only had one instance of a squib, and there are many, many combinations of components and loads that will keep you busy for years...
Go slow, double check everything and most important, have fun...
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You may want to check the forum sticky:
https://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=230171
That will give you a good start. Additionally please do check out some of the other reloading section sticky postings.
Ron
https://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=230171
That will give you a good start. Additionally please do check out some of the other reloading section sticky postings.
Ron
Hi. Rule 1 is that reloading is not rocket science. Rule 2 is Read the Book. The ABC's of Reloading is the acknowledged 'new guy' starting point. Runs about $30 from Amazon or your local gun shop.
Look into one of the Beginner's kits. They come with everything you'll need less dies and shell holder. Partial to the RCBS one myself but mostly for the warrantee. Any problems, even if you caused it, they'll fix it, for free, with a phone call or e-mail. Forever. Their warrantee also applies to used kit. Buying used reloading kit isn't like buying a used car. You have to work at damaging most of it. Don't think anybody else covers used stuff. You do pay a bit more for RCBS because of the warrantee though.
The Beginner's kits come with a manual but buy a Lyman book as well. Not that the book included is bad. The Lyman book is more versatile. The bullet and powder manufacturer's books cover their products only. Lyman doesn't make bullets or powder.
Also you do not need bullet manufacturer specific load data. You load for the weight, not who made it or the style of bullet. Only important part of the bullet that matters is if it's cast/plated or jacketed. Plated bullets are not jacketed.
Like mikld says, a single stage press will do nicely. (40 plus years on one myself.) And what brand doesn't make a lot of difference. Also his "buy this, buy that" advice is dead on. Lot of the tools and gauges and other magical devices are unnecessary. A scale and set of vernier calipres(preferably digital. Easier to read.) are not though.
Biggest thing that gets forgotten on this kind of post is the bench. Needs to be solid, but doesn't need to be huge or expensive. Just don't buy a work bench with a particle board/OSB top. Breaks, usually on the first use. Easily fixed with a hunk of 1/4" steel but you won't have to if you buy something with a solid top in the first place. (Yes, I did. Got the steel for free though.) A solid outside door works well as a top. So does a Black and Decker Workmate if space is an issue. Pop into a used office furniture shop. There will be something.
And don't forget you're not alone.
Look into one of the Beginner's kits. They come with everything you'll need less dies and shell holder. Partial to the RCBS one myself but mostly for the warrantee. Any problems, even if you caused it, they'll fix it, for free, with a phone call or e-mail. Forever. Their warrantee also applies to used kit. Buying used reloading kit isn't like buying a used car. You have to work at damaging most of it. Don't think anybody else covers used stuff. You do pay a bit more for RCBS because of the warrantee though.
The Beginner's kits come with a manual but buy a Lyman book as well. Not that the book included is bad. The Lyman book is more versatile. The bullet and powder manufacturer's books cover their products only. Lyman doesn't make bullets or powder.
Also you do not need bullet manufacturer specific load data. You load for the weight, not who made it or the style of bullet. Only important part of the bullet that matters is if it's cast/plated or jacketed. Plated bullets are not jacketed.
Like mikld says, a single stage press will do nicely. (40 plus years on one myself.) And what brand doesn't make a lot of difference. Also his "buy this, buy that" advice is dead on. Lot of the tools and gauges and other magical devices are unnecessary. A scale and set of vernier calipres(preferably digital. Easier to read.) are not though.
Biggest thing that gets forgotten on this kind of post is the bench. Needs to be solid, but doesn't need to be huge or expensive. Just don't buy a work bench with a particle board/OSB top. Breaks, usually on the first use. Easily fixed with a hunk of 1/4" steel but you won't have to if you buy something with a solid top in the first place. (Yes, I did. Got the steel for free though.) A solid outside door works well as a top. So does a Black and Decker Workmate if space is an issue. Pop into a used office furniture shop. There will be something.
And don't forget you're not alone.
I'll echo the call to be information source wary. Only God is perfect; everyone else makes mistakes. In fact, that even applies to authors of load manuals, so a good rule of thumb is to check at least three published sources to confirm what you think you know to be true about a load from any one source. Fortunately, these days, online resources make that fairly easy to do. Almost always, the powder maker and bullet maker will have load recommendations. The powder companies publish theirs on line, and the bullet makers who do not will almost always send you a recommendation if you request it by email. Use the lowest starting load from all sources at your disposal as your starting point.
Keep in mind most people don't possess statistical intuition. This results in recommendations based on anecdotal information that may apply in one case or even in most cases, but not necessarily in all.
Don't use old data books. Powder and primers formulations and manufacturing methods change over time, as do bullets and brass change some over time and with brand. Old data was developed without modern pressure testing at a time when all jacketed bullets had similar construction, so bullet weight alone could be used to determine charge weights, and relying on pressure signs like case head expansion that have since been measured to err by as much as 2:1. I've even run into some old data that was good only in the gun it was developed in and was over-pressure in others. Old data is of historical interest to students reloading, but is not a good source for new load workups. Some of it still holds up today and some of it doesn't. You just can't guess which by looking and without reference to another source.
Lee's help videos are another resource. They have things like die adjustments for a single-stage press that are short and clear and without the usual amateurish hesitations and "uhs" and "err, ahhhs" and other space fillers and dead spots. It is for their equipment, specifically, and others brands have variations, but watching someone go through the basic setup steps demystifies the process significantly.
Keep in mind most people don't possess statistical intuition. This results in recommendations based on anecdotal information that may apply in one case or even in most cases, but not necessarily in all.
Don't use old data books. Powder and primers formulations and manufacturing methods change over time, as do bullets and brass change some over time and with brand. Old data was developed without modern pressure testing at a time when all jacketed bullets had similar construction, so bullet weight alone could be used to determine charge weights, and relying on pressure signs like case head expansion that have since been measured to err by as much as 2:1. I've even run into some old data that was good only in the gun it was developed in and was over-pressure in others. Old data is of historical interest to students reloading, but is not a good source for new load workups. Some of it still holds up today and some of it doesn't. You just can't guess which by looking and without reference to another source.
Lee's help videos are another resource. They have things like die adjustments for a single-stage press that are short and clear and without the usual amateurish hesitations and "uhs" and "err, ahhhs" and other space fillers and dead spots. It is for their equipment, specifically, and others brands have variations, but watching someone go through the basic setup steps demystifies the process significantly.
sirgilligan
New member
Ask lots of questions every step of the way. I have received excellent advice from The Firing Line. In my opinion there is no such of a thing as a dumb question. Ask, read, go watch a friend, watch online videos, etc.
I expect you are supposed to have faith there is a reason, and that God only knows what it is. A more interesting and on-topic question is why probability works the way it does rather than the universe working by simple mechanical determinism. That is much more puzzling, and it affects group size.
God made them the same as he did everyone else.
They are atheists and have lived their lives without HIM in their lives.
If you ask them, they would prolly state that they are a god....especially in their own minds.
They were not like they are now when they were babies. They are the way they are now because that is their choice, and we live our lives by the choices that we make.
'Nuther thought. I'd suggest a tried and true load/components for a new reloader. If I wanted to reload 38 Special, I'd start with a jacketed 158 gr. bullet and W231 or Bullseye for powder, with a charge right outta my manual. For 45 ACP; 230 gr. FMJRN. Bullseye works good here too. For a 9mm, I'd suggest a 124/125 gr. jacketed round nose, and W231. (There are other variations of these loads, but keep it as "classic" as you can).These loads have been used ninety-four bizillion times and all the quirks have been worked out and info readily available here. I won't take long before you branch ut and use other combinations of components/loads to suit your wants/needs...
ctoler88
Getting into reloading. Now on line you can get most of the info you need. If your going to reload large quantities , you may not want a single stage press. I may load 50 rounds max , so my single stage has served me well for over 25+ years. My advice would be to buy the best quality you can afford. You'll need a press, dies, trimmer, chamfers. Measuring tools, powder , cases, primers & bullets. Load books, not just one. It's alot, talking on this forum will help you with every step. Sorry about being side tracked with the God stuff.
Getting into reloading. Now on line you can get most of the info you need. If your going to reload large quantities , you may not want a single stage press. I may load 50 rounds max , so my single stage has served me well for over 25+ years. My advice would be to buy the best quality you can afford. You'll need a press, dies, trimmer, chamfers. Measuring tools, powder , cases, primers & bullets. Load books, not just one. It's alot, talking on this forum will help you with every step. Sorry about being side tracked with the God stuff.
Another recommendation for the "ABCs of Reloading," great place to start. I would also highly recommend you buy the Speer Reloading Manual and the Hornady Reloading Manual and read them all cover to cover until you are comfortable. You should have multiple reloading manuals on hand and they are an excellent investment.
Start with straight walled pistol cases like the 38 Special or 44 Special. They are the easiest to reload, and you will learn a lot.
Also, second on having a mentor or take an NRA Reloading Course. That will get you off to a good start. Reading is different from doing.
I recommend a Single Stage Press Kit to start with, like the RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme Master Reloading Kit. It has everything you need except for Dies and Shellholders to start. Lee Pistol Dies with the Factory Crimp Die won't break the bank and are excellent. The RCBS Press will last a lifetime and you will always use it, no matter how far you advance in the hobby. I still use mine for Rifle Loads and de-priming cases.
Also, get a Lee Universal De-capping Die and Frankford Arsenal wet tumbler. This is the most effective and modern way to clean brass. You can decap all your fired brass then throw them in the wet tumbler for 1.5 hrs and your brass will be completely clean, even the primer pockets, like they were new.
DO NOT start with a Progressive Reloading Machine...that is for when you have built up more experience.
Hope this helps...
Start with straight walled pistol cases like the 38 Special or 44 Special. They are the easiest to reload, and you will learn a lot.
Also, second on having a mentor or take an NRA Reloading Course. That will get you off to a good start. Reading is different from doing.
I recommend a Single Stage Press Kit to start with, like the RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme Master Reloading Kit. It has everything you need except for Dies and Shellholders to start. Lee Pistol Dies with the Factory Crimp Die won't break the bank and are excellent. The RCBS Press will last a lifetime and you will always use it, no matter how far you advance in the hobby. I still use mine for Rifle Loads and de-priming cases.
Also, get a Lee Universal De-capping Die and Frankford Arsenal wet tumbler. This is the most effective and modern way to clean brass. You can decap all your fired brass then throw them in the wet tumbler for 1.5 hrs and your brass will be completely clean, even the primer pockets, like they were new.
DO NOT start with a Progressive Reloading Machine...that is for when you have built up more experience.
Hope this helps...
Starting to hand load.
1st thing that is needed is a desire to learn, patience and an attention on detail. If you have those then you can do it and are on your way.
My suggestion upon starting is first a few good manuals and current load data. Next take the time and read as many forums and reloading topics that you can along with watch all the youtube videos your eyes can stand. You'll quickly be able to sort the informative ones from the junk. And yes watch the videos for all the different presses it will provide a good look at what others are doing.
Once you are ready to actually start you will need a bench/work area, press, dies and shell holder, scale and a loading block to hold the shells you are working with and a powder dipper/scoop.
Lastly, keep in mind that one does not have to buy all brand new equipment to do this. There is a lot of used equipment available out there at very reasonable prices. Then if you see something that you have questions about, ask. You will get answers.
I just recently restarted with loading and all the equipment I now have is used. I have about $150.00 invested and that includes 3 manuals. So you can get into this for as little as I have or you could go all out as I just seen one of the big Dillon setups on ebay last night with a starting bid of $3500.00
1st thing that is needed is a desire to learn, patience and an attention on detail. If you have those then you can do it and are on your way.
My suggestion upon starting is first a few good manuals and current load data. Next take the time and read as many forums and reloading topics that you can along with watch all the youtube videos your eyes can stand. You'll quickly be able to sort the informative ones from the junk. And yes watch the videos for all the different presses it will provide a good look at what others are doing.
Once you are ready to actually start you will need a bench/work area, press, dies and shell holder, scale and a loading block to hold the shells you are working with and a powder dipper/scoop.
Lastly, keep in mind that one does not have to buy all brand new equipment to do this. There is a lot of used equipment available out there at very reasonable prices. Then if you see something that you have questions about, ask. You will get answers.
I just recently restarted with loading and all the equipment I now have is used. I have about $150.00 invested and that includes 3 manuals. So you can get into this for as little as I have or you could go all out as I just seen one of the big Dillon setups on ebay last night with a starting bid of $3500.00
JeepHammer
Moderator
The most comprehensive reloading information so far,
NRA Illustrated Reloading Handbook.
Not in print anymore, and not a 'Load' book, but the single most comprehensive text on reloading in an understandable form.
If you can find one for sale, you won't ever let go of it...
Safety First!
Check several load tables since misprints abound, both in print and on the Internet.
Do NOT exceed maximum published loads!
A 'Turret' style press works great for most hand loading.
Turrets allow you to have die sets kept together while allowing you to keep your adjustments from one step to the next.
With extra turrets, your caliber changes take 30 seconds.
All beginners want to do more calibers, and a turret press is cost effective and quick to change calibers.
Particularly with rifle cases, spend $20 on a case length gauge and consult 'YouTube' to learn to use it.
A case length gauge will speed up die set up, and confirm your work in resizing.
That same case gauge will allow you to check your finished work, making sure no FUBAR got into the assembly process.
There is a LOT of other stuff you will want/need once you get rolling,
But the case gauges & turret press will serve you for years to come.
NRA Illustrated Reloading Handbook.
Not in print anymore, and not a 'Load' book, but the single most comprehensive text on reloading in an understandable form.
If you can find one for sale, you won't ever let go of it...
Safety First!
Check several load tables since misprints abound, both in print and on the Internet.
Do NOT exceed maximum published loads!
A 'Turret' style press works great for most hand loading.
Turrets allow you to have die sets kept together while allowing you to keep your adjustments from one step to the next.
With extra turrets, your caliber changes take 30 seconds.
All beginners want to do more calibers, and a turret press is cost effective and quick to change calibers.
Particularly with rifle cases, spend $20 on a case length gauge and consult 'YouTube' to learn to use it.
A case length gauge will speed up die set up, and confirm your work in resizing.
That same case gauge will allow you to check your finished work, making sure no FUBAR got into the assembly process.
There is a LOT of other stuff you will want/need once you get rolling,
But the case gauges & turret press will serve you for years to come.