new to reloading

B

bulls n bucks

New member
Hi i am new to this sight and new to reloading I have read a lot about it and watched meany videos on it. one question I have is why are all reloading manuals completely different? like for a 30-30 hornady has max load of IMR 3031 with a 170 gr interlock fp at 28.5 gr and Nosler has it at 30.0 gr with the 170 partition. so I guess what im asking is does bullet brand matter that much like can I use hornady bullets with Nosler load data and be safe?
 
Welcome to the wonderful, often frustrating and confusing world of reloading!

I'll give you my take on reloading manuals after nearly 30 years of reloading. First the manuals do not represent hard and fast formula, they are reports of testing done by the manual's publisher.

Suppose you asked 25 lab technicians to go to their labs and come up with a variety of loads for a specific cartridge. They go to their own labs and use the specific lot of powder they have. They use their particular lot of primers, and bullets (yes they can differ from lot to lot) and brass. They use their own testing equipment (some use real guns, some use universal receivers with different length barrels). Some equipment may be brand new and have tight tolerances, some may be well used. Some may use different standards (PSI vs CUP).

Now, would all the technicians come back to you with identical loads?

For a new reloader it's better to stick with the bullet manufacturer's recommendations. You can extrapolate data for similar bullets (close weights and design), but for now just use what's in the manual (I use my Hornady manual for loading Hornady bullets and my Nosler manual for Nosler bullets. For cast lead bullets I use my Lyman's Cast BUllet Handbook). But to answer your question yes it's prolly safe to use Nosler starting load data for a similar Hornady bullet (I suggest you think of powder charges in the minimum/starting load sense, wait for a load work up to consider/think maximum). It won't be long before you can safely use "close but no cigar" data for your particular components... :D
 
Last edited:
I have reloaded 30-30 alot. In my experience My lever guns didn't like nowhere near the max load. If I were you I would pick a powder, bullet, primer combo and start with a low charge and work up from there testing your loads looking for signs of pressure on the spent case, flattened primers, etc. Good luck, be safe, TAKE YOUR TIME, and most of all HAVE FUN!
 
Who made the bullet is of no importance whatsoever. Neither is it's shape or construction. No pointy bullets in a lever action mag, of course. Unless you only load 1 plus one in the chamber.
Only really important part is the weight. And close counts for that. As in if you have data for a 170 grain .30 cal bullet, but you have a 173, the 170 grain data will do nicely. Usually +/- 5 grains is close enough. Anyway, manuals reflect averages of the data obtained on the day of the test, using exactly the firearm/universal receiver(sort of a quick barrel change barreled receiver) and components(like the powder lot) used and the conditions(weather, humidity, et al) only. Your manuals should tell you what firearm was used and most, if not all, of the components, but the only real difference will be the velocity. Hornady may have used a 20" Win M94 while Hodgdon used a 24" barrel.
 
Reloading manuals loads are worked up and tested in laboratory's in test barrels. Reloaded ammo at the rifle range results may be quite different from what the manuals show. That's why manuals have starting loads to work up from. As for what manual to use, use the one published by the same brand of bullets your going to use . hdbiker
 
Contrary to mr O'Heir, I do believe that bullet shape will have an impact (no pun intended) on the load. For instance, a bullet with a long bearing surface versus a bullet with the same weight but a shorter bearing surface can have different min/max powder ranges. I got that impression from a discussion with a Sierra tech, in discussing powder charges for various bullets and their bearing surface lengths.

Using the bullet manufacturer's suggested loads are always a good bet. Mostly I shoot Nosler bullets, and the suggested best loads in their manual are in most cases very close to the best loads I've found with the respective calibers, bullets, and powders.

I suppose my favorite all around manual is the Lyman 49th (and earlier issues of the manual). The only caliber in that manual that has what I'd call somewhat confusing load data is 223. Unlike load data for the 270, for instance, which uses one barrel length, there are several barrel lengths shown for the 223. They don't specify which MV goes with which barrel and powder, which might therefore be different than what your chrony shows with that load in a different barrel length. Compare loads for the 222 Rem Magnum (one barrel length) with the 223 and you'll see what I mean.

All that said, when I have a chosen powder and a new bullet weight, I'll have a look at my various load manuals and the internet, and pick a starting powder charge. Rarely do I go to the minimum and start, but I never start above the mid-load in the manuals. And NEVER start close to maximum. And only work with one powder at a time, with the other powders nowhere close to hand. Read the manuals and be careful. And then...welcome to the addiction.
 
I've loaded the 30-30 for over 40 years. Its a great cartridge for almost everything from varmints to medium size game.

If you have a single shot rifle, the choice of bullets expands to almost anything that is .30 caliber. My lightest bullet in a 30-30 is an 87 grain FMJ that I pulled from some bad 7.62x25 pistol cartridges. Sierra 110 grain hollow points make a great varmint load. Again. ONLY in a single shot rifle.

For a lever action or any other tubular feed magazine use only round nose, flat nose, or the newer spire points with the soft nose designed for tubular magazines. With regular spire points not designed for tubular magazines, you run the risk of setting off a cartridge while it is still in the magazine.:eek:

I have found as long as you start at the minimum load and very slowly work up, the bullet manufacturer does not matter. If a Speer bullet of 170 grains is used with the minimum charge in the Nosler or Hornady manual for the same weight bullet you should not run into trouble. Again, make sure the bullet shape is okay for tubular magazines if you have one in your gun.

As a final caution, verify that the ogive of the bullet does not touch the leads of the rifling in your barrel. You can verify this by chambering a cartridge and then ejecting it. If the bullet has any rifling marks on it, you need to shorter the OAL a few thousandths of an inch.

As a previous poster said, I've always found that loads at medium or less powder charges give the best accuracy in all of my 30-30 rifles.

Welcome to the world of reloading. You may find like many of us that the fun of reloading is almost as rewarding as the actual shooting of your cartridge.
 
Last edited:
There are lots of instructional videos on pressure signs as you work up your load. Read your manuals first, then compare what you watch to those manuals. Watch those trim lengths and use your case gage. Pinching a little bit of over length neck in a hot load can be a bad day at the range.
 
I load for a 30-30 bolt gun and a lever gun.

On the lever gun (Win 94AE), I load coated 165g lead bullets and I have found that if I keep the velocities in the 1500-1600 range then its happy. Usually 1.5-2 moa at 100yrds from the bench and I shoot steel with it out to 250yrds with ghost rings and off hand. I use IMR 4227 for the lever gun and coated lead

The bolt gun, a Savage 340a, likes the light spitzers (120-130g) and "middle of the road" loads. Its a tack driver under 400yrds! This rifle ceases to amaze me!
I use Reloader 15 for this rifle
IMG_20160430_100139433.jpg
 
Last edited:
Thanks for all the help I am just sticking to Hornady load data for now loaded the 170 gr interlock started with 28.0 gr and worked up to 34.3 gr with Leverevolution I will have to see how my rifle likes them this week.

SARuger I was wondering what load data you used for your savage as I also have a savage 30-30 that I thought about loading pointed bullets in but I cant find any data on pointed bullets for a 30-30.
 
T O'heir: With all due respect, you need to stop giving bad advice. Bullet construction DOES impact reloading data. Jacket thickness and core construction affects how the lands engrave the bullet. All can/will cause peak pressure changes.

bulls and bucks: Stick with each manufacturer's recommended loads and have fun.
 
SARuger I was wondering what load data you used for your savage as I also have a savage 30-30 that I thought about loading pointed bullets in but I cant find any data on pointed bullets for a 30-30.
Click to expand...

My Savage 340a is the reason I started reloading! There isn't any pointed factory stuff for the 30-30 and the Leverevolution stuff never has never been very accurate for me. I don't even bother with loading those bullets for my rifles. I tried, can't get them close.

There is little data out there to go by to be honest. I used the closest data I could find in my Lyman 49th book. I started .5g above min and worked .5g intervals until I got to .5g below max. I'm using Reloader 15 and Hornady 130g Spitzers.

My most accurate load was in the middle of the range and I never saw any pressure signs even near max! Very easy to load for and If it weren't for the single lug bolt I might consider pushing this rifle a little harder than I am but I'm ringing a 24" gong at 400 yards with those Williams FP-TK sights so I'm happy right now.
 
FWIW; I have a Handi-rifle in 30-30 and I wanted to use "pointy" bullets in it. I sent an email to Hornady (I wanted to use Hornady A-Max bullets) and I got a reply within a week with good load data. Another method I use is load data for TC Contender. My reloading manuals have data for "pointy" bullets for single shot rifles and these are good for bolt actions too. :rolleyes:
 
There are many reasons for those differences.

It's smart to take data from the source that best fits your situation, such as the maker of the powder, and start low.

Don't go through all of the sour c especially and choose the hottest load data you can find, then max it out with whatever components you have.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top