New to forum and handguns

C

Ctrain

New member
Hey everyone,

I am new to the forum and looking to purchase my first handgun. Went to the range for my first time yesterday, and loved it. I have shot guns before since I was about 15, as I go bird hunting almost every year. I own a 12 gauge remington wingmaster, and love that, as well. However I have only shot a few pistols while out in the woods with my family, and this was my first experience at the range. Rented a Beretta 92fs and also a S&W 686 4'' and put some 38 specials through it. Really enjoyed the 686, and love that it can shoot .357 mags as well as 38 specials. Also, the gunshop there said they could sell me a new 686 for $740.

That being said, I have a few questions. First, is this a good first pistol to own? It would mainly be for range use, but of course also for home defense purposes as well. I am not too experienced with handguns, but have heard nothing but great things about the 686. Just looking for other options that people think might be something better to try. Second, is that a good price for this gun? I am not good on gun prices, and have heard that you need to watch out so you don't get ripped off.

One last point, is would something bigger with a lower velocity be better for home protection? I saw a thread about how 357 mags can be deafening indoors without ear protection, but some people swear by them for their stopping power, etc. So, would getting something like a 689 to shoot 44s or a 1911 to shoot 45s be better?

Thanks for guidance, appreciate any help.
 
Hello and Welcome to the forums and the pistol world!

The 686 is an excellent first handgun. I would recommend the 4 inch model, as it is the best compromise between balance, power and sight radius.

Any revolver is a good way to start because they are fairly simple to operate, and easy to load and unload for the beginner. Semi's often confuse the beginner as do malfunction drills.

The 686 is a good choice as the first gun because the caliber is easy to find.
Although at our own local Wally mart, they deal mostly in semi auto caliber.
The .44 special would NOT be a good choice because the ammo would be more expensive as you are not into reloading yet.

But a 625 would also be a good choice ammo would be easy to find, relatively inexpensive, and good for SD with lower velocity that has softer recoil and noise than .357. Of course you will be able to shoot mild .38 special in the 686 and mild wadcutters even make for good defense.

Either the 686 or the Ruger GP100 would be my recommendation.
The price you quoted is close to what they are going for new around these parts.
 
Ah, great to hear. Thank you for your help. I definitely do like the ease of working the 686, not a whole lot to it. The semi autos just seem a bit daunting at this point, a lot more pieces if I ever were to try to strip it and clean it and all that stuff. Terrible question, but what exactly is a wadcutter load? I saw the 38 specials which were pretty nice and easy, didn't kick very much (I'll probably use these and work up to the 357s), but what is a mild wadcutter? I guess that shows how truly new I am to this type of thing haha, sorry. And thank you for the whole price/ammo stuff, I don't want my girlfriend to kill me when I am forking up the big dough for box after box of ammo, so probably best I don't go for the 44 if they are pricey :o
 
Welcome to the forum.
HighValleyRanch has given you some excellent advise, and may I add a bit. Don't be overly concerned with the myth of stopping power. Much more important is shot placement, and that comes with learning to shoot accurately. Practice, practice, practice. A well placed shot from a 38 Special is much more effective than a missed shot from a 44 Magnum!
The 686, or the lesser priced Ruger GP 100 would be an excellent choice in your situation.
 
Welcome to the TFL. A good bedside home defense gun would be 38 spl 44 spl or 45 acp which can be had in a revolver as well as in autos. The 357 is really loud has a huge muzzel flash and will shoot through walls into you neighbors house. But I'm sure it will be recommended as you can shoot both 357 and 38 spl. In auto's 9mm and 40 will be the standard,with the 40 having a little to much recoil, and the 45 acp being a favorite.

Have fun sorting it all out as everyone's choice is the best. :D
 
but what exactly is a wadcutter load? I
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bullettypes.jpg


Easier to show than explain. Wadcutters are mostly used for target shooting to produce a clear cut hole in the target for ease of scoring. A mild wadcutter would be a light load with a wadcutter type bullet.
 
Thank you for all the welcomes, appreciate it and glad to be learning a lot on here. I will definitely go to the range and try out many different guns before I make my decision, I have heard that that is probably the best way of making a good decision. Is the 45 acp able to be shot from a revolver? I know you can shoot it from a 1911 which would be semi auto...how are 1911s for a new gun? My friends cousin has one (he is in the marines, so way more experienced than I am) and he raves about it. Tough to learn on this weapon?
 
Sorry for double posting, but thank you for that picture. That really helps with my understanding of the different loads. So a wadcutter would be better for something along the lines of indoor shooting in a home defense type deal (rather than a 357 mag or 38 special)? Sorry if my questions don't make a whole lot of logical gun sense haha...
 
I agree with everything HiValleyRanch said.

A revolver is a very good first handgun.
With a Smith & Wesson 686 or Ruger GP100 you have a good selection of ammunition covering all of your requirements.
You have standard velocity 38 Special for practice. You have 38 Special +P for more power, Then you have the Midrange 357 loads. The next up the ladder would be the mild Speer 135 Gold Dot Short Barrel 357, then probably the Remington Golden Saber 125 grain loads. Then you have all the Full Power loads. If you get a Midway Catalog it lists the ammunition velocity with the ammunition. A good resource to get a handle on recoil.

You have lots of revolvers to choose from besides the 686 and GP100. I would not rule out a +P 38 Special either.
Used Smith & Wesson Model 10/64, 13/65, 15/67, 19/66, 581/681 and 586/686 are all good choices. (Note the first number is the Blued Model, the second number is the Stainless version of the same gun)
Then we have the N Frames like the 27 and 28. Both are heavy duty 357's, and are normally great shooters.

I would recommend going to Gun Broker and getting on the Revolver Section, then select: Smith & Wesson and then Add any of the Model Numbers from above. Spend about a week of evenings just looking at the Condition and Prices of the guns you see listed. Make Notes. After about a week you should have a much better handle on prices new and used, and condition.
Do the same search with Ruger GP100.

I think you can do much better than your dealers price.

Also look in the classified section of this forum.

No mention of where you live. This can have some impact on what you can buy. If you live in one of the Socialist States like California you can only buy approved guns on their list. Then we have the Peoples Republic of New York where you need a Judge to approve your handgun purchase. The voters need to do some house cleaning in a few states.

I hope you get a good one.

Note listing the State you live in on your profile might help with getting good answers to your questions.

Bob
 
So a wadcutter would be better for something along the lines of indoor shooting in a home defense type deal (rather than a 357 mag or 38 special)?
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The wadcutter is a type of bullet, not a particular cartridge. Some people have handloaded a hollow based wadcutter backwards, base forward, in 38 special, and 357 magnum with the idea that the flatter large open end would expand better, and have less chance of ricochet. I'm probably getting too technical for you right now, so forgive me. With today's modern bullet technology there are plenty of bullets, and factory loaded rounds to provide needed performance for self defense.

Sorry if my questions don't make a whole lot of logical gun sense haha...
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No apology needed. Your questions are to the point, and common with new shooters. Continue to read, and ask, and you will learn a great deal about the firearms world!
 
Thanks a lot for your help Bob, I will definitely browse on there for prices and see if I can get a better handle on what I should be looking for. And sorry, forgot to update my profile info with that stuff. I live in Washington State, Seattle area, so I don't think the laws are too strict. I have heard of Cali being ridiculous, so I am glad I am north of those crazies. Again, thanks for the info, really appreciate it.
 
S&W make the 45acp revolver in the N-frame. Very very fine guns.
Mine is the Mod 22-4 but they have many to choose from.

5686890509_d5de3f2046_z.jpg
 
Oh wow, very nice, like the looks of that. Thanks again for all of your help, I think I might have to make a run to the gun shop to put a few more rounds down range and give some of these guns you mentioned a shot. Thanks again for all of your input, great welcoming into this forum.
 
Ctrain, I will break ranks here

Welcome to the forum and welcome to handgunning.

When I bought my first gun, I also bought a reloading setup the same week. The 51st round I fired was a reload (I had to empty the casings of my factory box of 50 first, right?)

I knew I could not afford to shoot centerfire ammunition if I had to pay full retail prices for it.

So, I will suggest a 22 rimfire as a first handgun.

Handguns require a different set of skills than rifle or shotgun. They are much more difficult to master. The sight radius is shorter than a rifle and without a shoulder stock to help steady the gun, requires a LOT more practice to develop good skills.

Even the cheapest centerfire handgun ammunition costs 5 to 10 times as much as 22 rimfire, giving you that much more range time and practice.

While at the range, you can pay attention to what other people are shooting. You might even be offered the chance to shoot a few rounds from your fellow shooters' personally owned guns without the cost of having to rent one. And, of course, hear first hand opinions of the particular guns' virtues and failings.

After observing other shooters and picking their brains in person (all while you are shooting cheap 22 ammo) you will be in a better position to decide what you want as your SECOND handgun.

In the meantime, an 18" barrel for your wingmaster, perhaps with an extended magazine tube (optional) would serve as a home defense tool. Shotguns are much more effective in stationary defense scenarios than handguns. Easier to hit with and softer recoiling (use lighter loads-full power goose loads are overkill for people at short range).

Do get an ACCURATE 22 (or centerfire, if that's the way you decide to go). A gun that is imprecise is a frustration, distraction and impediment to your growth as an shooter.

Ruger's Single Six is an excellent choice and fairly cheap on the used market, especially now that the Single Ten is being introduced. The new SP101 is an unknown to me, but I have two of the older SP101s (six-shots) and have not found them to be satisfactorily accurate (only because of the trigger pull and short sight radius, not the fault of the design, really). In all honesty, I have to admit that I have not invested in a trigger improvement job.

The Ruger Semi-automatic pistol (Mark I, Mark II or the current model, Mark III) is an excellent choice (I have three and love them). The Browning Buckmark is excellent also (I don't have one, so cannot speak from personal knowledge). There are other makers of semi-auto 22s and vast quantities on the used market that should serve you well.

Once you get on the range, exhibit good gun handling techniques, pay attention and show interest. Most shooters are fairly friendly folk and LOVE to brag about how much they like their guns to a willing audience.

An alternative is to get a centerfire semiautomatic with a 22 conversion kit. These can be pricey, but allow you to shoot the same grip and trigger for both 22 and centerfire.

Good luck

Lost Sheep
 
Hello and welcome. The S&W 686 is a great gun whether it is your first or your last. The fact it will fire both 357 Magnum and 38 Special make it great for mutiple applications. The Magnum loads are great for the outdoors. The Special loads are good for general use, practice and indoor shooting as in home defense. The 357 Magnum has quite a muzzle blast inside a home or appartment. The 38 Special with the new bullet designs are much better than they were in the '60s and before. I carried a 4" 686 for several years as a private security patrol officer. It served me very well and I would not feel under gunned with it. I trusted my life to it and my abilities to use it and neither let me down. There are few revolvers that are on the same plain as the 686 so be careful in your search. Which are equal to the 686? I would say you could put the Ruger GP 100, the S&W models 27 and 28 and maybe one that is made in France (the make and model name escapes me right now) as the only ones I would trust. I am now a Department of the Army Civilian Police Officer and must carry the M9 (Beretta 92FS) as my duty pistol. It is not a bad pistol and with so many out there you should be able to find a nice one relatively inexpensive. Of the 2 I wish I could carry the 686 but regulations are regulations. Good luck in your search and stay safe.
 
Thanks for the input guys, appreciate the info. I am really interested in the 686, however I wonder if they will make a better deal for me. Is it common place to try to "haggle" with a local gun shop? I don't want to look like a fool walking in and saying an offer for the gun and have them look at me like I'm an idiot because their price is their price haha. I did look at getting a .22 but I was just thinking that with the money I would be spending on that gun...wouldn't it benefit me more to just get a larger gun that I would keep for a while rather than buy a .22 and then have to buy another pistol later? Not trying to talk down on your idea, Lost Sheep, because that is a great idea, just curious price-wise. Also, 357, thanks for the info about the 686. I am glad to hear that it is such a reliable weapon. It's pretty funny that the two guns I tried at the range were the Beretta 92 and the S&W 686, and those are the two that you have used in your time of service. Pretty awesome stuff. Thanks again all
 
I am really interested in the 686, however I wonder if they will make a better deal for me. Is it common place to try to "haggle" with a local gun shop?
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Not as long as you're nice about it. The worst the dealer can do is say no. I don't know the market in Washington, but $740 is a bit high. If you can get him down to $700, he's still getting a decent markup, and you're getting a fair price.

Definitely look into taking the NRA Basic Pistol class, or something similar. Build good habits from the beginning, stay teachable, and don't be afraid to ask questions. We all started somewhere, and you're definitely on the right track.
 
With regard to haggling, some dealers may come down on price; some may offer to toss in free or discounted accessories (holsters, cleaning kits, etc); some may offer free range time and/or ammo with a firearm purchase; and some won't budge.

Typically, regular and well-liked customers are likelier to get offered a deal, but the customer may have to ask.
 
Washington State has relatively high costs for guns. Shop around for bargains.

You might also consider looking on line.

You should also consider looking at used guns.
 
Thanks for the info guys. I will give it a try next time I'm at the shop. The guy showing me around gave me his info and everything, he was pretty friendly. He also showed me a bunch of guns I thought were cool but could never afford, things like the SCAR, ACR, Galil, AK-47, etc lol. He got a kick out of my reactions, so maybe he would throw me a bone and either mark it down a bit or give me some freebies. Even ammo or range time would be pretty awesome :D

And I will try joining a handgun class, I could definitely use a bit more guidance on all the proper techniques and things of that nature, always a positive thing to learn more.

Regarding online purchases though, I have been looking quite a bit on the forum here for selling handguns, and I was wondering, how does that exactly work, if I were to say, buy a gun from someone in another state? They all say things like either face to face or FFL. How would I go about buying a gun on here and then doing the "FFL" thing? Is it easier than it seems?
 
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