New Swedish Mauser

M

Marko Kloos

Inactive
In what can only be described as the deal of the decade, I have acquired a Swedish Mauser in trade for $30 worth of gun-related merchandise.

This Swede is hands down the most beautiful Mauser I've ever seen: matching numbers, arsenal refinished in 100% condition. It looks like an unissued rifle, and it has the most gorgeous honey-colored stock I've ever seen on a rifle. It looks like someone took the time to hand-wax the stock.

The bore is shiny like it's from a factory-new Ruger rather than a milsurp rifle that was built before the widespread use of electricity.

I'd been looking for a Swedish Mauser for a while, and once again the gun trading gods were merciful.

Anyone here own and shoot a Swedish Mauser? Anybody know how to read the disk in the butt? I know it lists the land and groove measurements, but I have no clue what the other numbers mean.
 
Sounds like you got a great deal! Here's a link to a site that will answer your questions. I have an M38, but have to admit that I haven't shot it much. It is a beautiful and extremely well made military rifle. I paid about $150 for mine and still consider it one of he best deals I ever made.

http://home.earthlink.net/~danathius/
 
I've got two of 'em...

an 1899 Oberndorf, and a 1907 Carl Gustaf. Both are unbelievable shooters, with a balance and feel that I doubt could be duplicated in this day and age.

If when shooting, you notice they shoot a good bit high at 100 yards, don't feel bad. Battle zero for the old girls was 300 meters, MINIMUM. Also, the original ammunition was a 156-160gr roundnose affair, hence the fast twist of the barrel. You'll have no problems running ammo from 120 grains and up. For best accuracy in our "any rifle, any sight" matches at my local range, I run the Hornady 160gr RN to duplicate the original loading for the M-96 Swede.

That Danathius link above mentions the stock disk's interpretation, the 1,2, and 3 reflect the bore's condition as appraised by armorers. If there is no little triangle stamped next to those numbers, the bore is a 0, meaning new. Higher numbers mean a lesser bore condition, with 3 meaning that the barrel should be replaced at the next arsenal rebuild. But fear not, even my 2-marked Carl Gustaf looks mirror-smooth, so they must have inspected them on a conservative scale.

Congratulations on your purchase, I'm sure you'll enjoy it. Hopefully, there's another one in your local area for sale, because as soon as Tamara shoots yours, she'll be looking for one. :D
 
Mine's a 1900 Carl Gustaf with a "0" bore. I can't wait to take it out for a shooting session...

Tamara has already proclaimed the Swede to be the best-looking rifle in my collection, with the possible exception of my M1 Carbine from 1943. She will get to shoot the Carl Gustaf as well, and after that range session I'll have to sleep with one eye open.
 
I had my grandfather's sporterized M94 as my first deer rifle. The cock on closing was a little difficult for a 10yr old. It had a Herter's muzzle brake attached on the muzzle nut screw threads. That thing was LOUD! As mentioned by others, it shot the usual Mauser 9-12" high at 100yds. Twas a 1903 Oberndorf, IIRC.... I miss it now. :(
 
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