New smoke pole
- Thread starter cdmckane
- Start date
Assuming the black powder bbl. on the FX and the Encore are the same as far as length twist and bore dimensions(and i believe they are), you may want to try the Hornady SST's over about 90-95grns. of powder for starters. I prefer American Pioneer powder.
Course as you probably know, you'll have to fine tune your load to your rifle's liking.
I've not heard of anyone claiming their Prohunter will not sling the SST's accurately...
...but then again, sure as I posted that, someone will chime in with that claim.
Course as you probably know, you'll have to fine tune your load to your rifle's liking.
I've not heard of anyone claiming their Prohunter will not sling the SST's accurately...
...but then again, sure as I posted that, someone will chime in with that claim.
The Encore and Pro Hunter are the same, only difference is you can't switch barrels on the Pro Hunter.
The T/C packaged sabots are made by Hornady. They shoot great. I have 3 T/C rifles. A Black Diamond, Encore and Triumph. All 3 like the same load and sabot. Mine prefer a 250 gr sabot and 120 gr powder. I use T7 magnum pellets (60 gr each) for easy, quick reloading in the field. Where I hunt, I have taken many deer out 200 yds and beyond. I've tested every sabot and powder combination possible and this is what these guns seem to "like".
I also prefer the Barnes Spit-Fire TMZ, MZ, or Expander MZ in 250 gr for hunting. Being solid copper, they have rapid expansion but yet hold together so there's no fragmentation in the meat and deadly on game. I like a sabot that is quite tight fitting in the barrel. A sabot you can load with one hand do not give me the accuracy I want.
I also like the Winchester T/7 209 primers. They are "toned down" a bit from a regular shotgun 209 primer. A regular shotgun 209 will work but it was discovered early after it's introduction as a BP ignition, they were a bit too hot. Some experienced pellet and sabot "jump" in the barrel just prior to powder ignition.
I like to swab the barrel between each shot (even in the field) with 2 or 3 pre-soaked patches followed by a few dry ones before loading. This has proven to give me superior accuracy and each shot is the same. I've found there is a bit of plastic left behind from the sabot and it's easiest to get out while the barrel is still warm. If you hunt in freezing weather, keep a dozen pre-soaked patches in a Skoal can in your pocket.
If this gun is new it may need time to settle in a bit. 2 of my 3 shot perfect right out of the box. The 3rd gave me fits in the beginning. After I shot about a box of sabots, it "broke in" finally and shot great. All I'm saying is if you experience this, keep shootin!
This "formula" should give you 1 inch groups @ 100 yds. (or even better depending on the shooter).
Good luck and let me know how you do!
All the best,
Birch
The T/C packaged sabots are made by Hornady. They shoot great. I have 3 T/C rifles. A Black Diamond, Encore and Triumph. All 3 like the same load and sabot. Mine prefer a 250 gr sabot and 120 gr powder. I use T7 magnum pellets (60 gr each) for easy, quick reloading in the field. Where I hunt, I have taken many deer out 200 yds and beyond. I've tested every sabot and powder combination possible and this is what these guns seem to "like".
I also prefer the Barnes Spit-Fire TMZ, MZ, or Expander MZ in 250 gr for hunting. Being solid copper, they have rapid expansion but yet hold together so there's no fragmentation in the meat and deadly on game. I like a sabot that is quite tight fitting in the barrel. A sabot you can load with one hand do not give me the accuracy I want.
I also like the Winchester T/7 209 primers. They are "toned down" a bit from a regular shotgun 209 primer. A regular shotgun 209 will work but it was discovered early after it's introduction as a BP ignition, they were a bit too hot. Some experienced pellet and sabot "jump" in the barrel just prior to powder ignition.
I like to swab the barrel between each shot (even in the field) with 2 or 3 pre-soaked patches followed by a few dry ones before loading. This has proven to give me superior accuracy and each shot is the same. I've found there is a bit of plastic left behind from the sabot and it's easiest to get out while the barrel is still warm. If you hunt in freezing weather, keep a dozen pre-soaked patches in a Skoal can in your pocket.
If this gun is new it may need time to settle in a bit. 2 of my 3 shot perfect right out of the box. The 3rd gave me fits in the beginning. After I shot about a box of sabots, it "broke in" finally and shot great. All I'm saying is if you experience this, keep shootin!
This "formula" should give you 1 inch groups @ 100 yds. (or even better depending on the shooter).
Good luck and let me know how you do!
All the best,
Birch
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Very good post BirchOrr.
You are right as well about the T/C packaged sabots being made by Hornady. You will usually pay less if you just buy the Hornady's.
As I re-read my post, I did not post the grn. weight of the Hornady bullet I was referring to
. That would be a 250grn.
You are right as well about the T/C packaged sabots being made by Hornady. You will usually pay less if you just buy the Hornady's.
As I re-read my post, I did not post the grn. weight of the Hornady bullet I was referring to
. That would be a 250grn.My T/C load isn't terribly different from BirchOrr's. It likes a 250gr Hornady SST in the low-drag sabot, 100grn of loose 777, and a 777 primer. Like was said earlier, the T/C Shockwave is the same bullet as the Hornady SST but with a different color tip - but the T/C's are more expensive. Save yourself some money and buy the Hornady branded bullets.
Thanks guys!
Yes the T/C's are more expensive. Indeed, why pay more for the same thing in a different box and color. I would suggest the "bonded" sabots. The copper jacket is bonded to the lead core. If there is any fragmentation, it's little to none.
I just looked at a box of Barnes Spit-Fire MZ's and I paid $30.95 for 24 sabots! Talk about expensive!
Birch
Yes the T/C's are more expensive. Indeed, why pay more for the same thing in a different box and color. I would suggest the "bonded" sabots. The copper jacket is bonded to the lead core. If there is any fragmentation, it's little to none.
I just looked at a box of Barnes Spit-Fire MZ's and I paid $30.95 for 24 sabots! Talk about expensive!
Birch