New S&W 442 - Cylinder Stuck!

Z

zenner22

New member
So I put my first 5 in the 442 (factory Magtech lead round nose) and it shoots fine. Then I can't get the cylinder open. It just won't budge. I can pull the trigger and it moves like it's supposed to, just won't open. After another revolution by pulling the trigger, the cylinder opens like it's supposed to. Unfortunately I only had 3 rounds left so I couldn't extensively test. Those fired fine though.

When I got the cylinder open I did check the ejector rod to see if it was loose but it appeared tight.

Any ideas what went wrong? Should I wait for it to happen again or should I just call Smith and send it back? This 442 does have the lock, by the way.
 
A lose ejector rod would have been my first guess but you have checked that. Next make sure there is no debris between the cylinder and the ejector star. Also make sure the screw in the thumb latch is tight. If those get loose it makes it hard to open the cylinder. And they are bad about getting loose.
 
I'd send it back.

S&W has a very quick turn around. Request a warranty form on your website and you'll have a return form in 48 hours. They'll usually have it back within 10 days or sometimes less.
 
I think I would want to test a bit more, and with other ammo before returning the gun to S&W, since it is not clear the defect is in the gun.

Jim
 
A lose ejector rod would have been my first guess but you have checked that. Next make sure there is no debris between the cylinder and the ejector star. Also make sure the screw in the thumb latch is tight. If those get loose it makes it hard to open the cylinder. And they are bad about getting loose.
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+1. Check for debris. Mag tech is pretty dirty range ammo.

Give it a good cleaning, buy some different ammo and see if it happens again. If it does, contact S&W.
 
How were you holding the revolver when ejecting the spent shell casings? The reason that I ask is because the most common cause of debris accumulating under the extractor is people pointing the gun muzzle-down and picking the spent casings out. The proper technique is to point the muzzle straight up when ejecting empties that way any loose debris falls into the case and out of the gun.
 
Webleymkv, that is an interesting theory. After firing my first 3 rounds I opened the cylinder muzzle down to show someone inexperienced in revolvers how the cases expand, how to tell what's been fired. Normally the muzzle is pointed up when I'm ejecting empties....

So I guess perhaps that could be what happened. Although if that is the case, should I be concerned that the revolver is that sensitive after 3 rounds have been fired?
 
Although if that is the case, should I be concerned that the revolver is that sensitive after 3 rounds have been fired?
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Any gun can be jammed with dirt. No you don't need to be concerned about your gun, just hold the muzzle up to eject the empties. The ejector star is a tight fitting piece and one unburned grain of powder under it will cause a tight fit when you close the cylinder. Its a simple matter of just wiping off the offending flake of debris. I had this happen on my first revolver and couldn't figure out what was wrong. I had no one to help me. I went all the way back home and it took a few minutes before I found the problem. That one time was enough to get me to raise the muzzle to empty the gun.
 
I agree in general with pointing the gun upward while ejecting the empty cases, but on most indoor and supervised ranges that is a no-no; the gun must be pointed down range at all times. Usually, it is OK to keep the gun horizontal while ejecting empties.

A quick and dirty test of the barrel-cylinder gap is to use ordinary printer paper, which runs .0035". A gap that won't accept one layer is too small; one that accepts three is bordering on too large. Two layers is about right.

Jim
 
I did not clean it before I shot it. I'm 50-50 when it comes to this, some I do, some I don't.

I've shot revolvers for many years and have not had this happen before, although it is extremely rare I touch the ejector rod with the muzzle facing downward. Maybe that's why I never had the problem?

I've always used speed loaders, never speed strips. But if you were doing a partial reload, what is the approved thechnique to remove the spent rounds without having the muzzle pointed downward?
 
Maybe there was manufactturing grit still in the revolver. As far as a partial reload with a revolver, I do not practice that. If I need reload, be it 1, or 7, I dump them all and insert another fully loaded speed loader.
 
Shoot the gun some more, at least a box, see if the problem continues. If it does then call S&W and send it back they will take care if it.
 
+1. Check for debris. Mag tech is pretty dirty range ammo.

Give it a good cleaning, buy some different ammo and see if it happens again. If it does, contact S&W.
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Firing 2 rounds of Magtech ammo should not provide enough "filth" to render a weapon partially inoperable. :rolleyes:
 
Loose ejector rod was my first thought.

Might have left the factory less than tight and a couple of shots backed it out a little.
 
I would be skeptical of the Mag-tech ammo also. I will not use any of their products. I had a factory box of Mag-Tech .45 ACP HP defense loads The lead was un-seating from the casing as the rounds were chambered & were becoming lodged in my 1911s barrel. a VERY dangerous situation to say the least.
 
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