New Revolver Question

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NeverAgain26

New member
Just got a new S & W 686. I have been shooting a borrowed revolver for the first few months. I'm taking it down to the range for the first time on Wednesday.

On semi-automatic guns I read that they need to be broken in by firing a few hundred rounds through them. Do revolvers need this break in as well?

Also, on semi-autos the manufacturer recommends cleaning them before firing for the first time. Do revolvers need to be cleaned before their first time on the range?

Thanks in advance for your help.

NA26
 
I would recommend running a patch down the chambers and barrel, just on "GP's". Can't hurt to be sure nothing is in there, and that's why the factory recommendation.

Like all machines from an eggbeater to a 747, your revolver will benefit from a break in period. This is no more than shooting and dry firing it. Usually, any problems will appear within 100 rounds or less, so don't do any modifications before then.
Automatics having more moving parts, need a formal breakin period before trusting the gun. Being much simpler, plus having a 100 year debugging period, revolvers have less need of one.

686's are built like tanks, so with a little care your great grand kids will be shooting it.
 
Thanks D

Cleaned her this a.m. Easy.

Also cleaned my Kimber Eclipse II semi-auto. Harder. Lots of disassembly/assembly. Takes getting used to I guess.

NA26
 
If your 686 is a new one......make sure all the internals are properly lubed. Have seen recent mfg that had NO lube internally. That can be a disaster with a stainless gun.

Sam
 
Lubed Internals

C.R., by 'internals' do you mean what's in the grip (spring, action, etc)? I cleaned and lubed it this a.m. and I lubed the extractor, crane and bore. Should I open up the grips and check?

Thanks.

NA26
 
Be careful about lubing the bore, chambers and extractor. Too much lube in the chambers or bore can cause serious pressure problems during firing. Too much lube on and around the extractor star and cylinder can result in dirt and residue buildup which could cause cylinder bind. When I go to the range, I always wipe the bore, chambers, and extractor areas with a dry patch.
 
With the cylinder swung out.....rotate it.....if it feels smooth and plumb quiet then it came with lube inside. If it is a bit raspy when you rotate it or you can hear any metal to metal sounds then you need to take the cyl down and lube the internal parts.

I have seen a couple of new ones come through recently that had zero lube......a little bit of cylinder rotation and the unlubed stainless rubbing on other stainless is soon galled and will never be right.

As previously noted.....do not fire it with lube in the chambers.

Sam
 
Gotcha

Thanks C.R. and stans. The cylinder spins like it's on ball bearings, nice and smooth and fast. I will make sure to take a dry patch to the chambers and extractor before I take it out for a ride. I can't wait.

I've been shooting a borrowed gun (38 S & W Special) from my pistol club till my permits came through and this is one of my first guns (the other is a Kimber Eclipse II bought the same day). I've had both of them for a few weeks and went on a trip right after buying them so I didn't get to even try them out. This week, for sure.

NA26
 
NeverAgain26: I would recommend getting the Kuhnhausen manual and learning how to take off the side plate so you can properly clean and lube the gun. It will live much longer and perform better if you do. It's not hard, but you need the right tools and technique to do it. It's all in the book (about $18 from Brownells).
 
I've Read That Name Before

Thanks, bountyh. Another thread on another forum (on 1911's) gave me the same Kuhnhausen name for a 1911 book. I will get the reading on both revo's and 1911's.

Going to the range this a.m. Can't wait.

NA26
 
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