Same rules apply...
Barrel break-in, clean the crap out of it on the first 100 rounds, getting ALL copper out.
100 rounds usually breaks in barrels.
Don't let copper expand any flaws in the bore.
PROTECT YOUR MUZZLE CROWN!
Clean from the chamber, NOT the muzzle!
Don't use screw together section rods. Period.
If you can't find muzzle caps that fit, the hardware store sells caps for canes & chair legs cheap, buy a few...
If you forget, these are 'Shoot Off', they won't blow up the rifle, (but you aren't supposed to forget).
Factory barrels can be anywhere from 'Acceptable' to complete crap, you will just have to see what you got.
The action MUST get back into the stock correctly to repeat. Period.
Buy a torque wrench or torque handle to tighten fasteners with.
I don't know anyone that can get fasteners correctly torqued with fingers, including me.
I have long arms too.
Decide if you are going to shoot from bench or prone.
Rotation of upper body/shoulder will decide pull length.
A little shorter for prone.
Don't be one bit worried about adding length to the stock, make it fit YOU.
'Super-Duper' stocks are expensive, & they are 'Hit & Miss' at best.
The sliding adjustable versions even more so. Lots of makers produce wobbly products, some flex when firing.
Money spent on SOLID optics mounts is money well spent.
The first thing I do is hang the barrel/receiver between centers and check to make sure the optics mount holes are aligned with the bore... Many aren't.
I often redrill/tap for -8 screws. The factory threads are usually not the sharpest or well sized for proper contact with screws, and are too small to do the job properly.
(See Marine Corps M40 & Army M24)
A full length steel rail stiffens receiver, and thermally expands/contracts with receiver.
A little bedding epoxy between rail & receiver doesn't hurt anything & helps fill gaps.
The wider the rings the better. At least two screws per side so the torque load is spread out.
Once rings are on the rail, mark for front/rear, left/right.
This is as easy as a punch mark for front/left, two punch marks for rear/left, for example.
Punching saddles/caps ensures the lapped caps get back on the correct way on the correct saddle so the lapping stays true if disassembled.
An etched reticle optic (opposed to wire reticle) usually lasts longer.
Stay away from 'Bullet Drop Compensation' optics since you intend to use different ammo than the optic is graduated for. Changes in ballistics (powder, bullet weight, BC) will all screw up shooting on the graduations.
'Buy Once, Cry Once'...
Optics are a personal choice, but I strongly recommend a long lived company that has a lifetime warranty.
You will pay for it, but you won't have issues since they know how to build an optic that works correctly and survives.
A LOT of guys aim to shoot 1,000 yds, but few get there, simply because they don't pay attention to the details...