New rem 700 adl Varmint .308
- Thread starter trigger45
- Start date
What is your goal? Personally I wouldn't do anything unless it solved a problem.
All I would do is put a tapered scope base for LR shooting and good glass. The Leupold Long Range 1 piece base works fine, and is pretty inexpensive. Some folks don't like it because it isn't "Tactical".
All I would do is put a tapered scope base for LR shooting and good glass. The Leupold Long Range 1 piece base works fine, and is pretty inexpensive. Some folks don't like it because it isn't "Tactical".
Goal is milk jug at 1000 yards but in the real world I’d be ok to get 600yards. I want to work up to it. Bought 500 147gr fmj to break it in and learn about the .308win. Next I’ll get 165 or something to start moving out past 300. Once I reach 600 I’ll get a 10x scope to help me reach my goal. I just want to replace the stock. Was looking at the magpul with the magazine. Would help with stock fit cause I have long arms.
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In no particular order:
Never really seen a point for a detachable box magazine on a bolt gun. Make it as complex as it needs to be, but no more so.
Sorry, no feedback on that particular stock. Looks like a good price though.
A detachable mag will also limit your OAL to what will work in the magazine, which may or may not be the best shooter in your rifle. My guess is a round loaded to that length will be nowhere near the start of the rifling in your barrel. You can probably get acceptable accuracy like that, but many people like setting OAL to be as close to the rifling as possible (some even set to touch, I do not).
10X is pretty low power for 1000 yards. You can certainly do it, I shoot 1000 occasionally with a 3.5 power PU, but if you are building for that task, get something better suited for it.
Get better bullets. 175-180 gr Match bullets should work with your barrel. RE "Break in", read this thread: https://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60102
Never really seen a point for a detachable box magazine on a bolt gun. Make it as complex as it needs to be, but no more so.
Sorry, no feedback on that particular stock. Looks like a good price though.
A detachable mag will also limit your OAL to what will work in the magazine, which may or may not be the best shooter in your rifle. My guess is a round loaded to that length will be nowhere near the start of the rifling in your barrel. You can probably get acceptable accuracy like that, but many people like setting OAL to be as close to the rifling as possible (some even set to touch, I do not).
10X is pretty low power for 1000 yards. You can certainly do it, I shoot 1000 occasionally with a 3.5 power PU, but if you are building for that task, get something better suited for it.
Get better bullets. 175-180 gr Match bullets should work with your barrel. RE "Break in", read this thread: https://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60102
JeepHammer
Moderator
Same rules apply...
Barrel break-in, clean the crap out of it on the first 100 rounds, getting ALL copper out.
100 rounds usually breaks in barrels.
Don't let copper expand any flaws in the bore.
PROTECT YOUR MUZZLE CROWN!
Clean from the chamber, NOT the muzzle!
Don't use screw together section rods. Period.
If you can't find muzzle caps that fit, the hardware store sells caps for canes & chair legs cheap, buy a few...
If you forget, these are 'Shoot Off', they won't blow up the rifle, (but you aren't supposed to forget).
Factory barrels can be anywhere from 'Acceptable' to complete crap, you will just have to see what you got.
The action MUST get back into the stock correctly to repeat. Period.
Buy a torque wrench or torque handle to tighten fasteners with.
I don't know anyone that can get fasteners correctly torqued with fingers, including me.
I have long arms too.
Decide if you are going to shoot from bench or prone.
Rotation of upper body/shoulder will decide pull length.
A little shorter for prone.
Don't be one bit worried about adding length to the stock, make it fit YOU.
'Super-Duper' stocks are expensive, & they are 'Hit & Miss' at best.
The sliding adjustable versions even more so. Lots of makers produce wobbly products, some flex when firing.
Money spent on SOLID optics mounts is money well spent.
The first thing I do is hang the barrel/receiver between centers and check to make sure the optics mount holes are aligned with the bore... Many aren't.
I often redrill/tap for -8 screws. The factory threads are usually not the sharpest or well sized for proper contact with screws, and are too small to do the job properly.
(See Marine Corps M40 & Army M24)
A full length steel rail stiffens receiver, and thermally expands/contracts with receiver.
A little bedding epoxy between rail & receiver doesn't hurt anything & helps fill gaps.
The wider the rings the better. At least two screws per side so the torque load is spread out.
Once rings are on the rail, mark for front/rear, left/right.
This is as easy as a punch mark for front/left, two punch marks for rear/left, for example.
Punching saddles/caps ensures the lapped caps get back on the correct way on the correct saddle so the lapping stays true if disassembled.
An etched reticle optic (opposed to wire reticle) usually lasts longer.
Stay away from 'Bullet Drop Compensation' optics since you intend to use different ammo than the optic is graduated for. Changes in ballistics (powder, bullet weight, BC) will all screw up shooting on the graduations.
'Buy Once, Cry Once'...
Optics are a personal choice, but I strongly recommend a long lived company that has a lifetime warranty.
You will pay for it, but you won't have issues since they know how to build an optic that works correctly and survives.
A LOT of guys aim to shoot 1,000 yds, but few get there, simply because they don't pay attention to the details...
Barrel break-in, clean the crap out of it on the first 100 rounds, getting ALL copper out.
100 rounds usually breaks in barrels.
Don't let copper expand any flaws in the bore.
PROTECT YOUR MUZZLE CROWN!
Clean from the chamber, NOT the muzzle!
Don't use screw together section rods. Period.
If you can't find muzzle caps that fit, the hardware store sells caps for canes & chair legs cheap, buy a few...
If you forget, these are 'Shoot Off', they won't blow up the rifle, (but you aren't supposed to forget).
Factory barrels can be anywhere from 'Acceptable' to complete crap, you will just have to see what you got.
The action MUST get back into the stock correctly to repeat. Period.
Buy a torque wrench or torque handle to tighten fasteners with.
I don't know anyone that can get fasteners correctly torqued with fingers, including me.
I have long arms too.
Decide if you are going to shoot from bench or prone.
Rotation of upper body/shoulder will decide pull length.
A little shorter for prone.
Don't be one bit worried about adding length to the stock, make it fit YOU.
'Super-Duper' stocks are expensive, & they are 'Hit & Miss' at best.
The sliding adjustable versions even more so. Lots of makers produce wobbly products, some flex when firing.
Money spent on SOLID optics mounts is money well spent.
The first thing I do is hang the barrel/receiver between centers and check to make sure the optics mount holes are aligned with the bore... Many aren't.
I often redrill/tap for -8 screws. The factory threads are usually not the sharpest or well sized for proper contact with screws, and are too small to do the job properly.
(See Marine Corps M40 & Army M24)
A full length steel rail stiffens receiver, and thermally expands/contracts with receiver.
A little bedding epoxy between rail & receiver doesn't hurt anything & helps fill gaps.
The wider the rings the better. At least two screws per side so the torque load is spread out.
Once rings are on the rail, mark for front/rear, left/right.
This is as easy as a punch mark for front/left, two punch marks for rear/left, for example.
Punching saddles/caps ensures the lapped caps get back on the correct way on the correct saddle so the lapping stays true if disassembled.
An etched reticle optic (opposed to wire reticle) usually lasts longer.
Stay away from 'Bullet Drop Compensation' optics since you intend to use different ammo than the optic is graduated for. Changes in ballistics (powder, bullet weight, BC) will all screw up shooting on the graduations.
'Buy Once, Cry Once'...
Optics are a personal choice, but I strongly recommend a long lived company that has a lifetime warranty.
You will pay for it, but you won't have issues since they know how to build an optic that works correctly and survives.
A LOT of guys aim to shoot 1,000 yds, but few get there, simply because they don't pay attention to the details...
A milk jug at 1000 yards needs 175 grain or 190 grain match grade bullets with one of the typical .30 cal. match powders like IMR4064(isn't the only one). Out to 600, a 168 match bullet will do nicely though. 147 grain FMJ's are milsurp.
The real issue is your experience shooting at those distances. You get everything from bullet drop(a 168 grain match bullet drops 49.9" at 500) to wind and mirage. Go shoot some NRA High Power.
Your rifle have a trigger job? It bedded? If you change the stock have it glass bedded(easy DIY thing with an Acraglas kit) too.
Remember that an ADL was and entry level hunting rifle. Despite the heavy barrel it's not a target rifle.
"...processing 105 prices of brass..." 105 really isn't that many. Depending on your press, done step to all of 'em and change dies.
"...point for a detachable box magazine on a bolt gun..." Lets you unload easily when going into a hunting camp.
The real issue is your experience shooting at those distances. You get everything from bullet drop(a 168 grain match bullet drops 49.9" at 500) to wind and mirage. Go shoot some NRA High Power.
Your rifle have a trigger job? It bedded? If you change the stock have it glass bedded(easy DIY thing with an Acraglas kit) too.
Remember that an ADL was and entry level hunting rifle. Despite the heavy barrel it's not a target rifle.
"...processing 105 prices of brass..." 105 really isn't that many. Depending on your press, done step to all of 'em and change dies.
"...point for a detachable box magazine on a bolt gun..." Lets you unload easily when going into a hunting camp.
I have this rifle. The only change I made was having the barrel but to 20" with a recessed crown. Best group to date at 100yds was .307" center to center. At 250yds iwas at around .5 or so. This using the factory stock and my handloads. I am using 44grs of RL15 and 168gr SMK's. Hunting I use 165gr Gameking.
Thanks guys for the replies. Rob 96 - where you get your bullets?
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Last edited:
What is your twist rate 1in 10 or 12 ? MidwayUSA or Midsouth Shooting Supplies is a good place for supplies . Sierra MK or Hornady A- Max Match Bullets are good choices in bullets . Good luck with your new toy . If your not going to use the gun for hunting , look into a benchrest trigger . Will tighten up your groups for sure once you get enough trigger time with he rifle. I would suggest F/L sizing your cases to the minimum .001 or .002
Chris
Chris
Trigger,
Sorry, came to the thread late.
I would drop the CFE223. Gave me good velocities in 223 Rem, 308 Win. But....
Large extreme spread and standard deviation. Not good for milk juggung at 1000.
With my rifles here is my list. Bear in mind i usually shoot Savage rifles.
Bed action with Devcon.
Trigger work. Being done myself or aftermarket trigger.
EGW 20 MOA 1 piece base, bedded to the action.
Vortex Viper series, or Warne Permanent rings.
One rifle wearing Vortex Crossfire II 6-18X44.
One rifle wearing Sightron STAC 4-20X50 MOA scope.
I'm using a $60 knock off of an Atlas bipod. Got from Amazon. Has worked really well. All the "Atlas" accessories fit.
Sorry, came to the thread late.
I would drop the CFE223. Gave me good velocities in 223 Rem, 308 Win. But....
Large extreme spread and standard deviation. Not good for milk juggung at 1000.
With my rifles here is my list. Bear in mind i usually shoot Savage rifles.
Bed action with Devcon.
Trigger work. Being done myself or aftermarket trigger.
EGW 20 MOA 1 piece base, bedded to the action.
Vortex Viper series, or Warne Permanent rings.
One rifle wearing Vortex Crossfire II 6-18X44.
One rifle wearing Sightron STAC 4-20X50 MOA scope.
I'm using a $60 knock off of an Atlas bipod. Got from Amazon. Has worked really well. All the "Atlas" accessories fit.