New Reloader and Ready to Take Plunge

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Iggy913

Inactive
Good morning all,

I joined this forum to hopefully get some answers I’m having difficulty getting at my local gun shops on reloading. I’ve read the basics here and quite a few other places and feel pretty comfortable with the process, and I’m ready to start buying equipment. However I’ve got a last few details I’m having difficulty working and out:

I’m going to be reloading 308 for my M14 almost exclusively at first. I’m interested in turning out a decent quantity of ammo so I was looking to start with a progressive press, either a Hornady LNL AP or Dillon 550C. My question comes in here with these presses. Am I correct in stating that with either of these presses I can start with a piece of used brass with the old primer still in it? The stations in these presses involves removing the old primer, resizing the brass, and installing a new primer do they not?

I feel like I’m missing some crucial steps here, are you not supposed to inspect, clean, and/or bore out, for lack of a better term, the primer hole in the brass? What about for checking the case for length? What about cleaning the case itself?

Are all these things supposed to be done ahead of time, before the brass is placed into one of these machines, so I’d be starting with clean, deprimed, resized, and the proper length brass?

I’m a little confused, any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Welcome to the world of reloading! You do not bore out the primer, the press and dies do it all. My suggestion is to start with a single stage until you have the fundamentals down pat. Then move on to a Dillion 550. Walk before you run. Buy quality equipment that will last many years. Don't skimp. I have over 40 years of reloading experience.
 
Rifle rounds are a little more involved to reload than pistol rounds (especially if military brass). Here is a quick high level view of what needs to be done for rifle reloads:

- Initial inspection to remove any cases with excessive dents/damage
- Clean & De-Prime (running dirty brass in your dies is no good IMO)
- If military brass, primer pocket most likely needs to be swaged or trimmed to get rid of crimp they use
- Lube & Re-Size
-Check case length AFTER resizing, if over spec, trim
- Most guys clean again to get lube off and to remove any burrs in the neck from trimming
- Now you have a "workable" piece of brass you can run through your press to finish the remaining steps (seat primer, fill with powder, seat bullet, crimp)


Watch a few vid's on youtube, everyone has their own little way of doing things but those are the main steps that need to be done.
 
For sure start with a single stage setup. As noted above, it's the best learning tool. You have hands on for every step. Also, since you will be working up loads, loading a small number of rounds to varied specifications, you'll want the single stage and a good powder scale. And, of course, it's much cheaper.
 
Honestly, I tried loading 308 NATO on my Dillon 650 and had issues. My case feeder kept jamming casings on the internal ramp and for some reason my final loaded round was very stubborn to slide out of the shell holder plate. These issue plus the fact I had to deprime and swage out the primer pocket in a separate step made me revert back to simple single stage loading. I load my M1 and M1A ammo on my RCBS Rock Chucker just seems much more trouble free. I do however load 223 AR on my 650 no problem, I just have to make sure I use non crimped commercial brass.
 
Buy a good manual first like the latest Lyman reloading manual and read and understand it. Then decide if you want to reload pistol ammo as well. I reload rifle and I have two progressive presses a Hornady LNL and a Dillon 550B. I would recommend the Dillon over the LNL the Dillon is simpler to maintain and I can load just as fast on the Dillon as the LNL. I do not use a case feeder on either press (my preference). I only reload pistol on the progressives. I reload rifle on a single stage Rock Chucker IV. This is my preference and you can reload rifle on the LNL or the Dillon as well.
 
My first recommendation would be NOT to start reloading using a progressive press and especially not if loading bottle necked rifle cartridges.
Start at the basic level and move up as you learn.
 
unfortunately you are not ready . First you need to read some good manuals and read them two or three times . (The ABC,s of Loading ) Most people that reload do it because they love to it is a hobby in of its own . You need to KNOW what you need to do before you do anything ,
Yes you start with a simple single stage press it will be used for years . I read into your post a lot of reasons to slow down and learn first . Do not buy anything until you know what you need .
 
Thank you all for the replies, I agree with what’s been said and feel like a single stage press would be a good places to start, I honestly don’t shoot enough that I’ll need rapid production of thousands of rounds.

I also agree that reloading is its own hobby and that’s part of the reason I’m interested. I’m certainly not trying to push the envelope of performance and make some kind of extra hot loads, I’ll be working with proven loads straight out of the books.

I’m going to start with the single stage press, thank you all for the help.
 
Do you know someone that loads, they can help you a great deal, when you shoot your first hand loads you will hooked !!!!
 
Single stage it all the way like everyone has said.... to me a progressive is a waist with making good rifle ammo because of all the added steps meaning swagging primers, then recleaning after resizing....I just don’t believe shoving new primers and powder into a lubed up case and then having the final product covered in lube as well.... I’d try batch loading, imo, it’s easier and makes you focus on each step at one time until adding powder and seating a bullet... I consider that two steps at once....

Reading is going to be your friend for awhile before you actually start... that’s just my opinion... but to each is there own... I recommend books over the internet....
 
Hello Iggy913 and welcome to the forum.

I see you caught the general jist of suggestions. A few good manuals will go a long way and starts a nice foundation to build upon. Next I would suggest looking to youtube for reloading videos and get a look how others have their setup and what other tools they are using and how they are using them.

Then when you are ready to start I also suggest to many to start watching ebay for used equipment. Just yesterday I looked and there were 43 used RCBS presses listed in the first 10 pages. Believe me it is near impossible to wear one out. Rusted and abused is a different story. Many times one can find stuff that is like-new and hardly been used.
 
My first press and one i still use the most is a Lee 4 hole turret press.
For bottle neck rifle cartridges i take the advancement rod out and use as a single stage press.
No treading dies in and out for each stage, just give a twist of the turret.

You really should have several manuals. Powder and bullet manufactures all have data.
And they are all different.

For cleaning casings i have a Lyman tumbler (about $40) and use walnut from Harbor Freight.
Loading good quality rounds doesn't have to be overly expensive.
Save the OCD for shooting 1000 yard bench rest at the national level.
 
Cabella and the like usually have reloading classes.

Get a Rock Chucker or the like, you can do it on the smaller size presses but its harder.

Single stage press almost always comes in handy even latter on.

Progressive presses are intended to start with used cases, so yes that would be the MO for those. I believe there is zero issue starting with new brass, it just zips past the primer punch out and size does nothing.

Once fire military brass has crimps holding the primer in (they really really do not want it going AWOL)

That is better done with a dedicate de-primer die and the remnants of the crimp should be removed as they cause hang up issues as its not fully gone. It will break a Foster de-prime pin (don't ask me how I know and those were reamed out (almost fully!)
 
Start by reading reloading manuals.
Manuals will show you exactly what's available, how it's supposed to function, how to use it, and what you should expect for results.
These manuals will also steer you away from mistakes and cover basic safety.

Personally, I would start with an accurate measuring tool, a caliper at the very least, and some case/cartridge gauges.
I would also print off a detailed machine drawing of your chosen caliber, use the caliper on a loaded factory round to see what 'Ideal' & Actual readings look like.

Learning to use a quick gauge will save you a ton of time and allow you to see exactly how loaded factory ammo fits into the gauges, and how/where the fired ammo cases hang up and protrude from the gauges.

This will allow you to identify problem areas, the caliper will allow you to measure most areas of your brass for Quality Control (QC).
QC checks should be fairly constant since the function & safety of the ammunition is at stake.

Most people start with a single press.
Something with an iron frame often gives best results since it flexes/stretches less, gives more accurate results.
There are several choices, everyone I've ever know has a single of one design or another.
The best advise I can give is to stay away from 'C' frame presses, particularly if they are made of aluminum.
Without support on BOTH sides of the brass, the brass will 'Win' when pitted against the press.
A 'C' opens up, and stretch will give inconsistent results.
An 'O' ring, (Rock Chucker & Others) or side by side steel rods with brass in between will usually give best results.

Work on producing a viable, well made round.
Work your process out, deprime before or after cleaning, clean with water, with or without pins/chips, with dry media, a combo of both.

Inspection of brass, does it need a primer crimp removed, is it excessively dented or deformed, is the brass stretched, is it Berdan or boxer primed, sort by head stamp or not, is it once fired- twice fired etc.

Singular purpose dies or combo dies?
Singular dies have one purpose, a decapping die simply knocks the primer cap out of the brass then you will need dies for sizing, dies for other functions.
A combo die will knock the primer out, size the body/neck in one stroke, but might not give you exactly what you are looking for.
Dies are available for most anything you want to make the brass do.

DO NOT take anything you find on 'YouTube' or on the forums a 'Fact'!
There are a TON of stupid/dangerous/silly ideas right along with the good ideas, and just starting out, you won't know the difference!

The all time best idea is a CERTIFIED reloading class (after you read the how to manuals).
NRA or other certified instructors will keep you from following a rabbit down a hole wasting both time & money, while stressing safety.
It's a good idea for certification since those guys usually won't teach you bad habits or give you wrong ideas.
Some Local Gun Shops (LGS) that has a lot of reloading components & parts for presses will sometimes have reloading classes once in a while, or will be able to direct you towards someone that is a prolific reloader if an actual certified class isn't available in your area.

If you aren't the 'Tinker' type, you don't like to 'Fiddle' with things, you are going to hate reloading.
Reloading is about CONSTANT records keeping, constant QC checks, constant adjusting for wear & other vairables.
If this sort of detail oriented work doesn't appeal to you, then this probably isn't for you...
 
If you are loading for your M14, start with some good New commercial brass. Leave the military or range pick ups for others for now. Start with 100 pieces of new .308 brass. Be aware that there may be limits on what your M14 will safely fire without damage, I believe that too powerful a round or the wrong pressure curve can damage your op rod. A .308 load that is good for a bolt action may be bad for your M14.

Commercial brass should already be sized and trimmed to length, this will save you a couple of steps, and you will not have to swage the primer pockets.

So you may want some specific Garand / M14 loads, which use a 150 grain or 168 grain match bullet. You will also want to use something like 4064 powder. Some manuals show specific powder and bullet combinations for Garands and I believe the M14 as well.
 
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Welcome to the wonderful, oft confusing and frustrating world of reloading!

Sounds like you may need some basics, some "Reloading 101". One of the most recommended texts is The ABCs of Reloading. This text will show you what is involved with the reloading process, explain components, and show what equipment is needed. Next purchase could be a Lyman 50th Edition, and a bullet manufacturer's manual and a powder manufacturer's manual. This will give you a good start on the process. Choosing equipment can be confusing, but I also find it lots of fun, and vendor catalogs (are they still available?) are excellent sources of info on what's available.

I too recommend a single stage press for learning and there will always be use for one on your bench if you go progressive (I've been reloading since '69 and I have no need for a progressive press, just doesn't fit my life style). You can learn to operate a reloading machine, but it's better if you learn how to reload, then, if necessary, move on to a reloading machine.

If you ask "what's the best..?" on a forum, 99% of the answers will be what the poster uses and not actual comparisons/tests. Not all bad, just be aware as many times it boils down to a "Ford vs. Chevy" discussion and each manufacturer has it's followers.

When you're satisfied with your choice of equipment and before you start stuffing brass, first find a load in your reloading manuals (bullets, powder, primers), then purchase components. Determine a "classic" tried and true load and start low (nobody will call you a sissy for using light, starting level loads)...

Go slow. Double check everything. Most important, have fun...
 
Disclaimer: I do not own or use a turret press.

I started on a single stage which I used for years and then somebody sold me a progressive which I used for years. I never much looked into different ways of reloading until I got onto this forum. (This is not a good thing. There are a LOT of things I could have been doing different that would have saved me a lot of time and effort.)

With that out of the way I'd say take a look at the Redding T-7 turret press. To me it looks like a beast that would take care of all your reloading needs.

https://ads.midwayusa.com/product/5...MI9dSU6aC62gIVxbXACh06SgJ6EAQYASABEgLgzPD_BwE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3nGRrBs5Clo

It can be used as a single stage if you want and then after you get up to speed it can turn out a lot of ammo fairly quickly.

I think if I had researched or just 'looked into' reloading when I was young I would have got a turret press and skipped the progressive.

Here's a youtube of the press in action where they change from loading .30-06 to loading .223.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HXxQ9LaoziA
 
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By boring out the primer flash hole I think the OP is referring to uniforming the depth of the primer pocket and/or removing the crimp from military primer pocket brass. Both of those items are a consideration with the M-14 .308s.
 
Keep in mind there are reload manuals (load data) for specific rounds and firearms.
M1 Garand comes to mind, and somewhere I have an M14/M1A load book.
These books are specific to firearms that can be fussy sometimes...

I find them a good starting point and they help steer me in the right direction.

These load books come & go, limited sales potential, but you can find out of print books on Amazon, the used book sites & eBay.
 
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