New Kimber: and all the king's horses and all the king's men....

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DanP

New member
Picked up my NIB Custom Eclipse today and figured the best way to spend lunch-hour was to read the manual and field-strip it to gain familiarity.

All good and well until the "for re-assembly reverse the steps" part...

After 1/2 hour could not get the !#@ pin back in so put it in a bag and went back to the shop... my ego felt a bit better after the shop fellow took at least several minutes to get the pin in.

Next, putting the spring back in place... not trivial, particularly with some oil around. The provided tool is great for taking it out but seemed like a hindrance for putting it back in.

So, any tips or tricks on those two re-assembly points?

And, when re-inserting the pin, is there a conceivable chance of installing the pin through the frame / slide yet missing the inner ring?

Also when inserting a loaded mag I could not release the slide with the weak-hand thumb as I am able to do with other 1911's, even with the previous Eclipse I shot.

Weird, but I'll chalk that to just needing some more breaking-in.

Thanks in advance!
 
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One word...PRACTICE...

Oh, and that "inner ring" you referred to is called a link.

Wilson Combat sells some great books and videos on the 1911 that might help.

Good Luck!
 
It took me a few minutes to understand this post, as you're apparently not too up on 1911 parts nomenclature. To reassemble a 1911, invert the slide and install the barrel, bushing, and recoil spring guide into the slide. Make sure the barrel link (the aformentioned ring thingy) in tipped forward. Keeping the slide inverted, install the frame assembly onto the slide. Turn the pistol upright again, and line up the rear takedown notch in the slide with the rear slide stop pin hole in the frame. Look through the forward slide stop pin hole to see if the link is lined up with the hole. If not, jiggle the gun until the link drops down into rough alignment. Once it is, shove the slide stop pin in, but stop before the rear portion of the pin reaches the plunger on the frame. Now, with a little finese, you'll need to get the hang of pushing the pin all the way in past the resistance of the plunger, without letting the pin slip and create that famous scratch on the frame or slide. Once installed, replace the recoil spring and plug.

It actually takes longer to describe it than do it. I have done it so many times I can do it instantaneously, but first-timers might take a while to get the hang of it.
 
Yes, it is possible on some guns to get the slide stop back in place and miss the link. Disassembly then is very difficult and may require destroying the slide stop to avoid harming the slide.

Jim
 
Thanks!

Yes, I definitely need to do this a few times, gain some experience and learn the nomenclature, which I'm sure I'll soon do with the help of you fine folks.

First 1911 though.

I thought this (the pin re-insertion bit) may have been more of a Kimber-specific bit rather than 1911 generic... same for the spring since as I understand not all 1911's are shipped with a specific tool...

Jim, any more details to that statement?

Anyway, any more tips or tricks for the spring bit?
 
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When I was having trouble reinstalling the recoil spring plug on my custom classic someone here suggested using the end of the bushing tool to push in the plug while turning the bushing manually. Seems to work good for me. :D
 
I've always been able to just use the bushing wrench to depress the spring as I turn it. A note on the slide stop: once you have the pin in place, if you push "up and in" at the same time, it usually will pop right in, without leaving that famous scratch.

Unfortunately, I don't always get it right.... :(
 
DSK, the procedure you describe is not possible with the Series II Kimbers, because of the additional safety they installed. When the frame is inverted, that pin tends to extend and interfere with the slide movement.

Dan, I have had no difficulty with just holding the frame and moving the slide backward. As noted, it's just a matter of practice. When repositioning the slide on the frame, make sure that the link is forward, keep an eye through the frame hole to see when the link lines up, and you'll be OK. Just don't jostle it around too much, or the link will swivel out of the way, and you'll lose sight of it, and have to start over.

Regarding the 'plug', or 'spring cap', I replace the barrel bushing in the slide, and it out of the way. Then I replace the spring onto the guide rod, refit the plug on top of the spring, insert it into the frame, and using my hands - NOT THE TOOL, rotate the bushing just enough to cover the lip of the cap. I then use the tool to finish the job.
 
There are two tips I can offer when working on guns:

1. BIG hammer;
2. Don't let me work on your guns.

BTW, as with any weapon it takes practice to field strip. Relax, if I can do it, anyone can.
 
Sometimes it helps to use a smaller diameter pin (anything - toothpick, Q-tip, whatever) to align the link with the holes in the frame.

This may be obvious, but once the slide stop is in place and you're ready to reinstall the recoil spring, engage the safety to keep the slide from moving.
 
hold the magazine upside down by the body and take a close look at the little metal tab sticking out...then examine the shape of the cutout on the bottom of the bushing were the plug rests. I think JMB had something in mind here.
 
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