New K-Frame (model 66)

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The model 66 from S&W is back in production, but it is quite different. Lined barrel, new additional cylinder front locking.

Do you think the new 66 may have corrected the issues of the old ones with steady 357 light bullet loads?

Someone says it has not the exact old k-frame sizes but is a bit beefier, anyone has experience of the new 66?
 
It's a 2-piece barrel, not "lined".

It's been a while since I've checked them out, but they have a ball detent at the front of the yoke, and IIRC, the lug that engages the front of the ejector rod is gone. Since the ejector rod turns on a S&W, and a bent rod can affect the action, I see the removal of the front lug as a plus.

Also IIRC, the design of the 2-piece barrel is such that the forcing cone isn't as thin or flattened to fit into the frame window, so it's possible it'll handle lighter mag rounds better.

Don't know about the relative beefiness of the new k-frame, but I'd very surprised if the frame itself were any different than a standard K-frame. It just doesn't make business sense to make a new and specific beefy k-frame for one gun when they've already got a tried and true K-frame and an L-frame.
 
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Don't know about the details or differences in old and new ones, but -
After renting one at a local range, might just gotta' have one.
Near perfect size and a first rate revolver.
 
thanks Borland very detailed explanation
I couldn't find reviews online, it seems a good product to me and one of few true innovation on a smith revolver.
I was gonna buying a used 4 inch 19 as a "prepper" gun to be used with 38s and 357 capable in case of needs, but now I'd like to know more about the new 66, i know is no cheap, but it sounds interesting to me...

if anyone has more info or pics is very welcome
 
If this is any indication of the quality of the new 66,
When I asked the range guy if the shop was getting any more in, (the rental gun was the only one there),
He said he was getting first dibs.
And the rental gun wasn't for sale, either, as he "borrows" it most weekend for matches, quite often winning revolver category with it.
From my experience with it, fully believable.
If anyone is wondering what we are discussing, it's this one:
http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/...57769_757767_757751_ProductDisplayErrorView_Y
 
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As far as a used 19 vs new 66, you'll likely get a lot of opinions, but most will be very subjective.

On the side of the used 19, you can get a really nice one for what a new 66 costs. OTOH, a new 66 comes without any issues that might be related to wear and tear by the previous owners.

As far as design and quality, the older revolvers beat the newer ones in terms of fit and finish, but functionally, I've found the newer ones to be at least the equal of the older ones.

The newer ones are also easier to tune and fix (if needed), and the stainless finish is something I don't have to worry about.

IMO, then, if you really love the look of a blue-and-walnut revolver, or want to spend a little less than a new gun, get a used 19. If you intent to use it hard and shoot the batsnot out of it, get a new 66.
 
g.willikers said:
he "borrows" it most weekend for matches, quite often winning revolver category with it.
Click to expand...

IME, nearly all who regularly and seriously compete with a revolver choose a newer (e.g. frame-mounted firing pin) S&W pretty much for the same reasons I articulated above.

My personal preference for a match gun is an L-frame (686), but if it were a K-frame and I were looking for another gun for regular use, the new 66 would be my obvious choice.
 
may be this is a silly idea but... once I removed the lock on a mod 60, do you think is doable to fill the small hole that remains with something like epoxy or tin and then polishing everything?
 
If you want to plug the hole, be sure to use something that can't possibly interfere with the inner workings.
Epoxy or solder might fall inside and do that.
 
I don't like the new "Model 66".

It has too many features like the black controls, two piece barrel, internal lock, matte finish, that just totally turns me off. I'd much rather take the $$$ they want for this new abomination and use it towards a REAL Model 66, which can be had for about the same price in excellent condition and who are ready to give a lifetime of service.
 
New S&W M66-8 vs M19-3

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I’ve had one since the middle of August 2014. I’ve fired a little over 1,300 rnds of middle to upper level .357 Mag loads (all 158gr) thru the gun with no problems. FWIW, I’m favorably impressed with the new m66 and have basically retired my M19.
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Here are some measurements – remember these are quick and dirty with dial calipers.

Frame window front to back:
M66 - 1.815”
M19 - 1.805”

Frame window top to bottom:
M66 - 1.475”
M19 - 1.475”

Top strap:
M66 - 0.665”
M19 - 0.655”

Cylinder Diameter:
M66 - 1.450”
M19 - 1.450”

Cylinder Length:
M66 - 1.670”
M19 - 1.675” (Recessed charge holes)

M66 Barrel is larger in diameter than the M19 – I didn’t measure it.

Here are some pictures top two are of the M66 barrel shank and face of cyl assy that shows how the cyl closes with the full size barrel shank of the M66.

Bottom two of M19 – couldn’t get a real clear picture of the cut on the bottom of the barrel shank.

M66
IMG_0651_zpsc72dd6d3.jpg

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IMG_0639_zps339ba85c.jpg

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Model 19-3
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IMG_0644_zps54a4a6f6.jpg

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IMG_0649_zps8341aeef.jpg

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Hope some of this helps.

Paul
 
thanks paul for your time! I like those new features, in particular the finish, only thing I don't like is the black cylinder release
 
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once I removed the lock on a mod 60, do you think is doable to fill the small hole that remains with something like epoxy or tin and then polishing everything?
Click to expand...

Someone makes a plug specifically for that hole. I don't know the source - might be someone on the S&W forum. You'll find more info on it via a Google search.

BTW, functionally, The Lock's really been a non-issue. Some will argue that it's not technically needed and a mechanical device that, in theory, can fail, so taking preventative measures by removing it is prudent. Others note that since the chance of a failure is so exceedingly small, it's not worth worrying about. Do what makes you feel safe, but it's more about that (doing what makes you feel safe) than anything else.
 
I've looked at the "new" 66, and it's cousin the 69 and am impressed with them. I'm really glad Smith & Wesson has enough confidence in the revolver market, aside from the J-frame CCW market, to even engineer, tool up for, and manufacture them.

IMO, then, if you really love the look of a blue-and-walnut revolver, or want to spend a little less than a new gun, get a used 19. If you intent to use it hard and shoot the batsnot out of it, get a new 66.
Click to expand...

This sort of sums up the way I feel about it. I DON'T shoot a lot. I DON'T shoot high power rounds. I DO like the look for a blue and walnut revolver.

So, I'd probably look for a Model 19. Not even an "old" 66.

But I am being VERY tempted to get a 69 just to shoot 44 Specials through. I got plenty of 38/357's already.
 
Jerry Miculek has a video comparing several revolvers, one of which is the new Model 66. The changes in the new 66 are discussed from 13:50-16:00 in the video.
 
Regarding holster fit -- the answer is a big maybe. The outside diameter of the barrel on the new M66 is larger and it is also 1/4" longer vs the original 19s/66s. Some holsters that are more generic ("medium revolver" vs M19 for example) might work. Holsters made specifically for M19/66 or those with a closed toe most likely won't work on the new 66s.

For example, I have an original Bianchi holster made (50 years ago) for a M19 -- the new M66 doesn't fit.

FWIW,

Paul
 
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