New here and made a stupid mistake.

F

flyntus

Inactive
Hello everyone.

Well, I purchased a S&W 686, not the plus, about 8 years ago. I recently let it go at a gun show for a new rifle I wanted. Now, I am feeling the sadness :( . But there is hope, yet. I am saving some money and trying to figure out what I want, better yet, need!

I want a 4"-5" .357. It has to be a S&W. I need to be able to fire full power loads. I like the idea of a seventh round, but I think it is not the most important thing. I must have adjustable sights. I plan on taking a spike, doe, or two inside of 30 yards.

I am open to buying a good, serviceable used gun, but brand new is appealing. Thing is, my budget is around $800.00 tops. I'd like to get it down in the $600.00 range, but I know that's asking a lot, considering what I want.

Need help guys and gals... models, places to look (websites), anything...

Thanks to all for input! Oh and blued or stainless is fine.. I actually like blued! ;)

Flyntus
 
In my opinion, the S&W Model 586 is the finest .357 Magnum DA revolver to come out yet. It will handle the heaviest bullet loads that neither the Model 27 nor the Python can digest. The Model 19 has the same long cylinder, but is not built so stout as the L-Frame guns.

Don't misunderstand what I'm saying~the cylinder is longer than the more highly acclaimed Colt and S&W guns. Therefore bullets such as the 173 gr. Keith will chamber without having to crimp over the shoulder. And I'll take the Model 586 over all other DA .357 Magnums.

Now a Ruger Blackhawk, that's a horse of a different story.

Bob Wright
 
In addition to the 586/686 revolvers, you should be able to find a good used Model 28 within your budget. It's on the heavier N-frame, though the weight is close to the 686 due, in part, to the full underlug of the 686. The 28 has a partial underlug. The grip frame is a bit bigger than the 686.
 
flyntus, My favorite .357s are the 586/686guns. While I've always been a blue steel and walnut guy, I have come to prefer the stainless guns as I have seen how many blued guns come to look when actually carried and/or used for duty, hunting, etc... A clean S&W Model 28 should not be hard to find in your price range. I have owned the Model 28 and have owned a S&W Model 27 since the '70s, but overall still prefer the L-Frame S&W in .357 caliber. The L-Frames just seem to be the right size, while being able to use as much .357 as most would want without worrying about the cracked forcing cones sometimes seen on K-Frame guns. I have personally seen two S&W Model 19s with forcing cones cracked in the 6:00 position...ymmv
 
"In my opinion, the S&W Model 586 is the finest .357 Magnum DA revolver to come out yet. It will handle the heaviest bullet loads that neither the Model 27 nor the Python can digest."

I don't even know how to respond to that.
 
In my opinion, the S&W Model 586 is the finest .357 Magnum DA revolver to come out yet
Click to expand...

I don't disagree with the recommendation, but would add that the 686 is just as good, plus it's easier to maintain than the blued gun.
 
I can't thank all of you guys enough for the replies! And if there are more to come, I sure do appreciate it.

I would love to become the owner of a 586! I would take it out, safety check it, and just drool puddles on the floor. I'd probably hide from my fiance' for hours in the back room and just marvel at it for hours on end!

I'm going to be looking at the model 28 and more at the 586.

Thanks, everyone!:)
 
I picked up a 5" 686+ Talo edition from my LGS for $750 OTD. I would think that you could easily locate what you want new for the money you want to spend. If I could have found a used 357 I would have grabbed it up. I like to buy used whenever possible. I find that most of them have very few rounds down the pipe.
 
In my opinion, the S&W Model 586 is the finest .357 Magnum DA revolver to come out yet. It will handle the heaviest bullet loads that neither the Model 27 nor the Python can digest.
Click to expand...
Bob, I am interested in your rationale that suggests the 586 to be somehow stronger or more capable than a Model 27. Is it due to the length of the cylinder, and the ability to load heavy-for-caliber bullets that may not fit in an N-frame cylinder?

For the OP, you will (likely) see a debate sparked with regard to new S&W revolvers vs. older (pre-lock) S&W revolvers, but as I have been owning, shooting & loving S&W revolvers since the late 80's, I can only tell you that I would absolutely, with no reserve whatsoever, spend the same (or MORE!) money on a beautiful condition used, older Smith & Wesson than I ever would consider on a newly manufactured one, and you can quote me on that.

Also, the 586 & the 686 are basically the same gun except that the 586 is blued steel and the 686 is stainless. When they were new, the 686 cost a few bucks more. It's my experience over the last -many- years that there are far more 686's out in circulation than 586's, and it's not close. Bottom line-- I'll bet you can find an older 686 much easier than a 586, and likely for a few less dollars.
 
The point Bob is trying to make is that the cylinder length is not adequate to accept long loaded bullets. I have a model 19 and a model 28 S&W, and the 19 will accept longer bullets, but the same round sticks out of the 28 cylinder enough to bind the action. If the cylinder won't turn, no "digestion" can occur.
As far as hot loads and digestion, I think the model 28 will "digest" loads that would knock the 19 silly loose. This was with 158 grain JHP crimped in the crimping groove over a healthy dose of Bluedot, which is a second tier load, with 2400 or H110 loads reserved for the 28 and carbine.
I hope I got this right, Bob.
 
I don't see a need for anything heavier than 158 grains in a 357.
Click to expand...

^+1 (Unless loading for rifle)

Some say the 586 has a smoother action than the 686; and blued carbon steel is more forgiving (less brittle) than stainless. So on paper, it may be able to handle a stronger round. I don't own a 586 (I do own three 686's), but those who do, tend to be rather fanatical about them. Very loyal group, they are.
 
8 shooter

My S&W N framed model 627 handles 180 grain hard cast loads just fine.....like Buffalo Bore , HSM bear load , and Federal ! :)
 
My S&W N framed model 627 handles 180 grain hard cast loads just fine.....like Buffalo Bore
Click to expand...

They are a Hoot to shoot in my GP100, but after 12 or so I'm reaching for the 140 grain XTP's...and the XTP's are more accurate IMHO
 
I can understand why 586 owners tout their pistol's tolerances and abilities. After all it is one fine looking revolver. I've not even handled one and trust me, I've ogled over just about every picture on the net. Still, I'm going with the advice offered and looking for a 28 with a good barrel and tight lock-up.

The 5" Talo has also caught my eye and just makes me more confused. Should I go old school with the craftsmanship of the 28, or trust the newer Talo designs, etc. After handling my father-in-law's highway patrolman, I just didn't want to put it down... Decisions, decisions!?
 
It will handle the heaviest bullet loads that neither the Model 27
Click to expand...

Sevens, I too would like to hear more on this. I have a Model 27 I bought a few months ago and haven't had out to the range yet. It's a five inch beauty and it looks like it could handle anything that would fit the cylinder although in truth I will never put anything other then standard factory 38SPL range loads and the occasional 158GR HP just to stay in practice with it.

It's such a pretty gun, I shouldn't even shoot the darn thing which is just as wasteful in it's own right. It's like two sides of the same coin. But I will shoot it because I want to appreciate all of the gun, it's function as well as it's form.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top