New Guns

J

John E.B. Rawton

New member
I had been working on my Uberti Walkers, swapping the kirst konvertors for the original c&b, fixing the short arbor (which I never new about) and installing some SlixShot nipples.
I was considering a new gun and was looking at an 1860 deluxe from Long Hunter. In the end I opted to buy a couple Uberti that were on sale. An 1860 and 1851.
I can order more SlixShot nipples. Taking a revolver down is not an issue. Inspecting and cleaning up parts is no problem and most likely the guns will work just fine for my style.
I have not tried to run percussions so I do not know if I need a cap rake yet.

I have read a bit about cylinder bore size vs barrel bore size and the fact that the cylinder is smaller. I wonder how necessary it is to bore the cylinder?
 
I guess that it's all up to what you want to do.
Reaming the chambers is only one part of accurizing a revolver.
Another part is the forcing cone.
I think that it's easier said than getting it done right.

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Originally posted by mec.
 
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Thanks articap,
For the most part I’ll just be throwing lead short range at Cowboy shoots and if I can ring the steel 5 outta 5 I’ll be happy for now. Fine tuning for accuracy might come later on the gun of my choice. I will have to spend some time with them I guess.
 
As the story goes ... So I opened up the boxes and initially both revolvers looked good and the action function as expected.
The 1860 was really tight when it came to removing the barrel. In fact I could not even get it back on by hand. I had jumped to the conclusion that there were a few high spots and burrs around the wedge slots and filed some areas flush.
The true problem, after real close inspection, was that the frame was dropped and had landed at high noon on the wedge end of the cylinder pin and bent that weakened end downward.
Now that I struggled with and twisted the barrel about, the cylinder pin loosened and rocks left n right. 
I should not have been so eager with the files n such because there is no way to send it back.
Of the $68 I saved on the sale I’ll spend $28 on a new cylinder pin and locking pin. Still, I’ve saved $40 and got some diy smithing lessons.
Win-Win. 

Seller withheld because it really doesn’t matter. Quality control started and ended with the individual at Uberti who decided a bent pin and a barrel that did not fit properly was good enough to put in a box and send out the door. 
 
John E.B. Rawton said:
Thanks articap,
For the most part I’ll just be throwing lead short range at Cowboy shoots and if I can ring the steel 5 outta 5 I’ll be happy for now. Fine tuning for accuracy might come later on the gun of my choice. I will have to spend some time with them I guess.
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I shoot C&B class in Cowboy Action Shooting and use stock Uberti's and Piettas, except for Tresso or Slix Shot nipples. They are plenty accurate for your stated purpose. Plates are easy to hit. Reaming chambers and fitting arbor are only nessesary if you are participating in Muzzel loader target matches. A lot of people think C&Bs aren't accurate but you wouldn't want me shooting at you with mine.
 
The Brownell’s .45 hand reamer (cylinder throat) has been recommended. Been thinking about bringing mine up to .452” from .449”.
 
rodwhaincamo said:
The Brownell’s .45 hand reamer (cylinder throat) has been recommended. Been thinking about bringing mine up to .452” from .449”.
Click to expand...
I’ve been in touch with the folks at 4d reamer rentals and they indicated that the cylinder throat reamer won’t work for this application... I’d hate to trash a cylinder trying to find out if he’s wrong. it’d be nice if someone who’s actually done this would chime in...??????
 
It’s been quite some time since this was suggested to me. I can’t say whether or not they actually did it themselves or not, but it seems they did.
 
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