HighValleyRanch
New member
Picked up my new Kimber K6 yesterday.
Immediately got to work on a new grip design for it.
If you look for Kimber grips, all you can find are variations of the old boot grip design with the fill in the front and exposed backstrap.
Looking at the lines of the frame, I decided that I could make something different. By taking out that front strap fill area, I could then get all my fingers on the stock grip frame. There was enough clearance so knuckle banging would not be an issue.
Second, by adding material on the backstrap side instead of the front strap as conventional, I could cushion the recoil more and move lengthen the trigger reach a little. I found that the trigger breaks so far back that my usual deep wrap was not breaking the trigger as it should. So now with a little longer reach, the trigger is able to be staged and break as I want.
Third, by wrapping around the top corner I could get my web as high as I want, thereby reducing the bore axis and getting straight back recoil.
Forth, I wanted a much thinner design for my AIWB or pocket carry. All the conventional boot grip designs are stubby and fat. I wanted long and thin. I even thought making them as thin as old Iver Johnson type pocket revolver grips, and may still do that on the next pair.
These are made from some birch stock that I had in the shop, and will do some carving or stipple design on them with an antique finish.
The're also cut back enough for my SL variant speedloader. FWIW, the same speedloaders for the Security six work on the Kimber K6. The HKS model that works is #10.
The first two photos show the difference in the stock rubber grips (all the wood ones are the same design) and my set back designed grips.
Immediately got to work on a new grip design for it.
If you look for Kimber grips, all you can find are variations of the old boot grip design with the fill in the front and exposed backstrap.
Looking at the lines of the frame, I decided that I could make something different. By taking out that front strap fill area, I could then get all my fingers on the stock grip frame. There was enough clearance so knuckle banging would not be an issue.
Second, by adding material on the backstrap side instead of the front strap as conventional, I could cushion the recoil more and move lengthen the trigger reach a little. I found that the trigger breaks so far back that my usual deep wrap was not breaking the trigger as it should. So now with a little longer reach, the trigger is able to be staged and break as I want.
Third, by wrapping around the top corner I could get my web as high as I want, thereby reducing the bore axis and getting straight back recoil.
Forth, I wanted a much thinner design for my AIWB or pocket carry. All the conventional boot grip designs are stubby and fat. I wanted long and thin. I even thought making them as thin as old Iver Johnson type pocket revolver grips, and may still do that on the next pair.
These are made from some birch stock that I had in the shop, and will do some carving or stipple design on them with an antique finish.
The're also cut back enough for my SL variant speedloader. FWIW, the same speedloaders for the Security six work on the Kimber K6. The HKS model that works is #10.
The first two photos show the difference in the stock rubber grips (all the wood ones are the same design) and my set back designed grips.
