New GP100 4" - good trigger - finally

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wild cat mccane

New member
I have been extremely critical of the GP100s in the past. Of my two previous GP100s and other revolvers, I would say the S&w 686 and Taurus 66 are likely to come with a better trigger. My past two GP100s had horrible triggers in DA and SA.

However, I just picked up this "last chance Ruger" 4" 1705 and the trigger is great. The SA is finally light. The DA is heavy, but not ungodly so.

The looks? I still am not 100%. The barrel/lug remind me of the Taurus Trackers-not distinguished.

I do like the cylinder release as a button vs the lever of the Taurus or S&W.

The grip has to go though. Bumps and humps for days. It hurts to even hold it. The bird finger gets hit with an awkward bump. Altamont (sp?) grips will be coming soon.

Springs? Wilson or Wolf?

 
Snap caps and ammo will slick that trigger right up. Will this be a defensive gun? If so I recommend against changing the springs.
 
I've had my GP100 since 1999. I like the gun, but the trigger has always left a lot to be desired. I just ordered the Wilson spring kit a few days ago and am looking forward to installing it. I don't plan to change the trigger weight much. I will likely install the strongest springs in the kit and see how it functions. I plan to continue carrying the pistol for SD, so I don't want to chance a misfire with a weak hammer.
 
If I've read it right, Ruger's hammer spring is now 10lbs from the factory?

Which springs and weights would one start with to improve the pull?

Thanks!
 
I think I've used both the Wolf and Wilson spring kits (two GPs) and couldn't tell any difference. They're about the same price and same good quality as far as I can tell, so get whichever you can find easier. I put the 10-lb springs for both hammer and trigger springs and have had zero ignition problems. The DA is as good or better than my LCR so that's good enuf fer me. :)
 
I have a 6" KGP100 on order, should be in to start the paperwork tomorrow. I have Pachmayr Presentations on my stainless Security Six 4" and no-dash 686 4", but they are not available for the GP100's (BAD Pachmayr, no candy for you!). Hogue has a non-finger grooved grip which is tackier than I prefer (as with so much Hogue makes) but is better than the munchkin army grooved grips that seem to have overtaken the medium frame revolver market. WOW were those terrible on my (gently used) 686!

I bought this as a range/ranch gun, a good trigger is critical and easily achieved, moreso than a Smith in my experience helping with friend's pistols. I doubt I'll do anything to mine except shoot it a LOT with full house loads I don't care to subject old pistols to. I like me some flash-bang!
 
Sorry they don't make em :)

Yes, people online have commented a lot about the flexibility of grips on the GP100. It simply isn't accurate. Only a limited variety exists and the bottom attachment seems pretty limiting to me...

So 10lb and 10lb is the way to go for an improved trigger?
 
GP triggers have always required doing right out of the box. So have Smith's and Taurus'.
However, just changing the springs won't help a lot. Won't hurt either, but you need to polish the mating internal parts plus the sides of the trigger and hammer. Did mine(30 some years ago) exactly the way a 1911A1 trigger is done. Polish the innards(all SS) and clip a 1/4 turn off the main spring.
"...10lbs from the factory..." 14 according to Wolff. They'll sell you a spring pak for $10.50. Includes a 9, 10 and 12 pound reduced power hammer spring and an 8 and 10 pound trigger return spring. Factory trigger return spring is 12 pounds.
Only ever used the original wood panelled grips myself. They fit and I've never seen a reason to change 'em. Mind you, those haven't been used by Ruger for eons. Something about the company that made 'em going out of business.
 
I'm not a huge Ruger fan. I did buy a carbon GP 100 a few years ago for black bear defense when fishing the Eastern Sierra. I prefer blue steel guns if they're an option.

So far, I have no complaints. It isn't an S&W Model 27-2, but it wasn't manufactured to be a Model 27 replica. It seems to be a duty weapon for agencies that still use revolvers and a work gun for people who need mean critter defense.

I see no point is dropping money to alter my GP 100. It works well as intended.

I've never been enamored of the .357 Mag cartridge for self-defense use. In fact, when I carry it to and from fishing & hunting locales, it's always loaded with the .38 Special FBI load, which I believe to be far superior to any .357 Mag round. If I were to use it for self-defense, I'd go with the FBI load. When I get to where bears might want to include my kids and me as menu options, I load it with 180 grain .357 Mag rounds.

Overall, for its intended purpose, I'd rate the GP 100 at five stars.
 
So I received my Wilson spring kit today and wasted no time installing them. I disn't absolutely hate the stock trigger, and didn't want to make any drastic changes, so I opted to install the heaviest springs in the kit.......a 12 lb hammer spring and a 10 lb return spring. I did also polish up a few of the trigger/hammer components too while I had it disassembled.
The results are pretty good. SA trigger is MUCH lighter than before, however the DA trigger feels only marginally lighter.....but definitely worth the modest time and money I spent on the project. It's a noticeable improvement.
Now I need to make it to the range and make sure the lighter springs will still discharge a primer. Given that I opted for the heavier springs, Im optimistic that the gun will be as reliable as ever. If not......I hung onto the stock springs just in case.
 
All you need is sandpaper, polishing compound, a polishing wheel and 15 minutes and that trigger will be as smooth as glass.

It's easy and cheap. Do this before you buy springs or you'll end up with extra parts that you'll never use like I did.

The other huge MUST-do upgrade is to take off that horrible hogue grip and throw it in the trash. Order the original rubber grips from Ruger. It will point, conceal, and absorb recoil better than the hogue abomination.

Third upgrade is sights which is optional as the factory sights are adequate. People make much ado about the infintisimal play in the rear sight but I find finer sights do improve accuracy.
 
Ran 36 rds through my new GP100 at lunchtime today. New range to me, very nice but had homework to do on other guns as well, so limited shooting per gun overall.

Ruger must have changed something in the last few years with their GP100 series. I can't see doing anything but dry firing and range shooting to get this gun better. I suspect they've done something based on the geometry of the LCR series, which has a crazy good trigger. I shot a blued GP100 4" a dozen years ago, I was not impressed by the trigger feel. Nothing like the Security Six I'd been shooting since '81, but this new GP is good to real good out of the box.
 
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This GP100 has a wonderful trigger !!!
 
My GP100 has a great trigger. It was good out of the box (2011 vintage gun) but after a trigger job it is really, really smooth and accurate.

 
One of the things that makes a trigger good. Is a lack of over travel. Over travel is trigger movement after the trigger breaks, during the time the hammer falls and before the round leaves the barrel. A large amount of over travel can cause the gun to move and the groups to open up. Pull weight and smoothness are not the only considerations. My Redhawk has significantly more overtravel in both DA and SA than any of my Smith 629s. Lock time or how long it takes the hammer to fall is also an issue. My Rugers both in SA And DA have longer lock times than my Smiths. This is an issue no one brings up when they talk about improving Ruger triggers.
 
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