new englander t/c
- Thread starter trigger45
- Start date
It's a pretty nice, straight forward rifle. I have had one since 1990. Ordered it - left hand model.
It's hasn't had any problems nor let me down when deer were in front of me. I've used it every season except this one, and have never had to have it repaired or parts replaced, so it's pretty reliable.
It has a round barrel, good balanced heft, and shoots well. I still have it, but bought an inline last year, just because after 17 years, I got antsy and wanted to try an inline.
If you like traditional BP, it's certainly worth a look.
It's hasn't had any problems nor let me down when deer were in front of me. I've used it every season except this one, and have never had to have it repaired or parts replaced, so it's pretty reliable.
It has a round barrel, good balanced heft, and shoots well. I still have it, but bought an inline last year, just because after 17 years, I got antsy and wanted to try an inline.
If you like traditional BP, it's certainly worth a look.
This is my New Englander:
The scope rings are off it now, however. It's a very nice rifle, well balanced and accurate. Frankly I prefer either a Lyman Great Plains Rifle or the T/C Hawken, but that's a personal thing having to do more with the fit of the rifle than a complaint against the New Englander.
The scope rings are off it now, however. It's a very nice rifle, well balanced and accurate. Frankly I prefer either a Lyman Great Plains Rifle or the T/C Hawken, but that's a personal thing having to do more with the fit of the rifle than a complaint against the New Englander.
YARDDOG(1)
New member
Got one just like Mykeal but mine is 26in barrel his looks like 24in
Can't add much to what has been posted and these are very nice rifles. mine is a 26" and wish I could find a shotgun barrel just to play with. If not, I will probably sell mine as I Prefer the octogon barrel. If the price is right, buy it. I have killed one deer with mine and will punch paper very nicely ...
Be Safe !!!
Be Safe !!!
Raider2000
New member
I had one with the interchangable .50 cal 26" & 12 ga. 28" Combo years ago but alas I still kick myself for having to let it go to help finance my DIVORCE 13 years ago.
Great rifle & shotgun combo & taken a Turkey & a few Deer with it, very worth it if it was taken care of.
Great rifle & shotgun combo & taken a Turkey & a few Deer with it, very worth it if it was taken care of.
(1 in 48")
(1 in 48")
This is according to T.C. Catalog #20. I have shot mostly PRB but did take a deer with it shooting a .50 Maxi. Excellent barrels and shoots great but I have never had a T.C. that did not. Seriously considering selling mine. I have the specs. on this M/L so let me know what you want to know.
Be Safe !!!
(1 in 48")
This is according to T.C. Catalog #20. I have shot mostly PRB but did take a deer with it shooting a .50 Maxi. Excellent barrels and shoots great but I have never had a T.C. that did not. Seriously considering selling mine. I have the specs. on this M/L so let me know what you want to know.
Be Safe !!!
just put 2 on laway. just need to know what i need to know. like how are good are round balls? what kind of powder is best? whats the range of this weapon 150 or 200yrds? do you have to take the lock off every time you clean? or just the barrel? what rod do i get to replace the wood one? what sabot work with this weapon? will roundballs kill deer? any info will help. got one for me and my son, to have an excuse to spend time together.
Round balls are an excellent bullet They are quite capable of a humane kill on almost any game animal in North America. As always, with any firearm, shot placement is the most important parameter.
Round ball ranges are generally 100 yards or less as they have a poor ballistic coefficient. However, up to that range they are often the best bullet for the task. The New Englander can deliver conical rounds as well, however, and they can be effective well over 200 yards. More definitive data on range would require more specific data about the bullet and it's ballistic coefficient. Sabot choices are like candy bars - some you like and some you don't, a personal choice.
'Best' powder is often a subjective question. I personally like real black powder, brand names Goex, Swiss, Shuetzen and KIK. Pyrodex is the most popular synthetic powder, with 777 having a good following as well.
The lock only needs to be removed and cleaned on a quarterly or semiannual basis, depending on frequency of use.
Brass and stainless steel are the two most popular rod materials to replace wood. Fiberglass is also used often, but many feel it tends to damage the muzzle crown. You can get a muzzle crown protector for the rod, and it is recommended.
do i need to replace the nipples? how often do i replace them? which ones do i use? where i s the powder charge info? does pryodex=blackpowder or whats the formula to figure it out? is 80gr a good starting load for about every thing? scope mounts? didnt see holes for them? do you take off the rear site? where do you get them?
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Thank goodness mykeal covered this well. As far as cleaning the lock, it depends on what powder you are using. Personally, I don't shoot any powder containing sulphur. Be sure to clean the hammer head and cup. Let the rifle talk to you and it will let you know what is happening and what needs attention. My Target load is 70 grains and hunting loads in the 90 to 95 grains. Nipples will last a long time but should be removed as part of you cleaning and reinstalled with copper based anti-siez. I like the black poly rods and would be appropriate on this M/L. The factory supplied should work well. I don't use glass and most of those are no longer available and shy away from aluminum as they are too noisey, in the woods. Your rifles should come with a manual that has loading data. Might also suggest you get one of Sam Fadala's books. Good luck and enjoy !!! I often find that most In-liners and some Traditional shooters, get all hung up on details and particulars and miss out on just plain fun of shooting M/L.s. 
Be Safe !!!
Be Safe !!!
Replace the nipples when they get peened; your clue will be the caps failing to fire on the first strike but firing ok on the second strike. Another way to tell is to run a fingernail up the cone to the tip; if they're starting to peen you'll feel a ridge at the tip, kind of like a mushroom cap starting to form. If you refrain from dry firing the gun (the worst thing you can do to a nipple) they should last a very long time. The T/C New Englander takes a rifle nipple with 1/4X28 threads; they can be obtained from almost any black powder outfitter.
Pahoo's load data is excellent. I personally start working up loads at the rifle caliber (50 gr in this case) and go up in 5 gr increments to find the best group, but I'd bet you'll end up where Pahoo did. I like 70 gr for targets also, and I'd be very comfortable with 90 for hunting anything except the biggest North American game. Here's a link to T/C's manual for all their sidelock guns; it contains loading data: T/C Sidelock Manual.
Pyrodex is essentially equivalent to real black powder for loading purposes.
You'll have to drill your own scope mounts. As to whether or not you remove the rear sight - depends on the scope and the mounts you choose.
I suspect this is the way you will have to go. When this model came out as well as others, you could order a T.C. Base adapter. I know there are still some out there but don't think you can get them from T.C. any more. The base adapter number is 9940 and keep in mind that this is only an adapter. If by chance you can find one, you will then have to get a base and rings. Although this is not a true traditional M/L. it's still is a side-lock. I like to keep my sidelocks as clean and traditional as possible but that is my personal hang-up and beg your indulgence. Might I suggest a tang mount peep sight. T.C. still makes these as well as Lyman. I have a Pennsylvania Hunter which is the big brother to your model and a fantastic shooter with a peep sight my eyes. Just for the heck or it, check your tang and see if you have three holes; two with slot head screws in them and a center one that has a blind machine screw. If so, this center hole and the upper screw hole are there to accept the Lyman or TC peep sights.
Be Safe !!!
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nope just 2 screws. will the t/c hawken barrels interchange with this model? my sons rifle has pitting in it didnt see it when i bought it?
well my rifle shoots to point of aim at 25 yards. well it did for 2 shoots. after that i got the jag stuck half way down the barrel. and broke the wood ramrod getting it out. gonna get a new one. my sons did mediocre but was too concrened about mine to shoot well. got it out by running water down and using the worm too get it out.
It was worth all the time and money to see my son smile and say " dad you are so cool." he wants to go tomorrow. finally we can connect. he had a lot of fun with his dad today. looked on midway for barrels and all they had was the hawken. dont care if there longer. Ill get one if i have to.
well my rifle shoots to point of aim at 25 yards. well it did for 2 shoots. after that i got the jag stuck half way down the barrel. and broke the wood ramrod getting it out. gonna get a new one. my sons did mediocre but was too concrened about mine to shoot well. got it out by running water down and using the worm too get it out.
It was worth all the time and money to see my son smile and say " dad you are so cool." he wants to go tomorrow. finally we can connect. he had a lot of fun with his dad today. looked on midway for barrels and all they had was the hawken. dont care if there longer. Ill get one if i have to.