New brass vs once fired
- Thread starter AL PALMER
- Start date
D Michalak
New member
Unless this is a trick question, I see no difference.
). In real life, nope no change...I don't reload for 243, but I do reload 223, 30-30 and 35 Remington. My experience shows if the reloading process is the same, then you can expect the same results when reloading with either new brass or once-fired brass.
I am just now beginning to experiment with neck-sizing once-fired brass (fired in my gun) instead of full-length sizing. Not enough neck-sized reloads fired yet, but initial results indicate slightly better groups at 100 yds.
I am just now beginning to experiment with neck-sizing once-fired brass (fired in my gun) instead of full-length sizing. Not enough neck-sized reloads fired yet, but initial results indicate slightly better groups at 100 yds.
Guggmeister
New member
No difference. Until it splits somewhere.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Guggmeister
New member
You are confused.
If he only neck-sizes the used brass then it’s perfect for that gun.
But if he full-sizes then it’s in the spec and should work in any gun but the brass life is shorter (less reloading cycles)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
I suspect that theoretically, the rounds that started with new brass would be a tiny bit different shape than rounds that start with fired brass formed to your chamber, but loadings 2 through infinity should have no difference. I doubt that the difference between the very first shot and subsequent shots per case would be significantly different. (I mean, if the objective is to find a "pet load", the pet load should be the same for new brass and once-fired brass.) The most efficient and accurate load with new brass is probably the most accurate and efficient loading in used brass. But the group sizes with fire-formed brass should be smaller, or people wouldn't spend the time and effort to do that.
JeepHammer
Moderator
Good time to understand how to do what you want to do.
Once fired, about as close to chamber size as possible.
The less you bend it, the closer it will fit.
Good time for a Datum line case gauge & an accurate caliper or micrometer.
Case in gauge, measure. This is the fired case BEFORE sizing.
Slightly bend case for size, see if it fits in the chamber.
If it does, case gauge & measure again.
Know exactly how much you need to bend the brass, and don't bend it anymore than you have to.
Keep in mind, you are allowing the brass to be 'Larger' than SAAMI/Factory, so you MUST measure and mess with the brass until its bent enough to fit that specific chamber.
It takes a little more fussing around since each brass will have a different rebound ('Spring Back') rate.
About everyone that tracks brass finds effective annealing, if not optimum annealing, helps with longevity.
I find annealed brass takes neck/shoulder sizing better since the brass is both softer & stress relieved to varying extents.
Keep in mind, you can go down a rabbit hole here,
There are TONS and hundreds of dollars of neck sizer dies with fractions of an inch difference, shoulder dies with micrometer adjustments, etc.
It's possible to bump shoulder back a little extra than YOUR specific chamber, and not effect consistency all that much.
This method will make the most stubborn brass fit the chamber, but you won't have brass that's 'Spot On' each and every time, this is simply because the difference in cases, but you do get to use common dies.
If you get a case that's REALLY stubborn and won't measure out, you simply stick a feeler gauge under it to get a little more shoulder movement. This is using a shoulder die and not a full length sizing die.
This saves you buying a set of custom, 'High Tolerance' case holders for the press.
It's up to you how exacting you want to be, how much time you want to put into each case everytime you reload.
Once fired, about as close to chamber size as possible.
The less you bend it, the closer it will fit.
Good time for a Datum line case gauge & an accurate caliper or micrometer.
Case in gauge, measure. This is the fired case BEFORE sizing.
Slightly bend case for size, see if it fits in the chamber.
If it does, case gauge & measure again.
Know exactly how much you need to bend the brass, and don't bend it anymore than you have to.
Keep in mind, you are allowing the brass to be 'Larger' than SAAMI/Factory, so you MUST measure and mess with the brass until its bent enough to fit that specific chamber.
It takes a little more fussing around since each brass will have a different rebound ('Spring Back') rate.
About everyone that tracks brass finds effective annealing, if not optimum annealing, helps with longevity.
I find annealed brass takes neck/shoulder sizing better since the brass is both softer & stress relieved to varying extents.
Keep in mind, you can go down a rabbit hole here,
There are TONS and hundreds of dollars of neck sizer dies with fractions of an inch difference, shoulder dies with micrometer adjustments, etc.
It's possible to bump shoulder back a little extra than YOUR specific chamber, and not effect consistency all that much.
This method will make the most stubborn brass fit the chamber, but you won't have brass that's 'Spot On' each and every time, this is simply because the difference in cases, but you do get to use common dies.
If you get a case that's REALLY stubborn and won't measure out, you simply stick a feeler gauge under it to get a little more shoulder movement. This is using a shoulder die and not a full length sizing die.
This saves you buying a set of custom, 'High Tolerance' case holders for the press.
It's up to you how exacting you want to be, how much time you want to put into each case everytime you reload.
If you set up your F/ L die to touch the shellholder and sized your new brass that way and duplicated the same process the yes it will be the same . Problem you may be oversizing your brass . Full sizing is the way to go if you ask me but one way to set your full size die is , feed a fired case back into your clean chamber most likely it won't feed then set up your F/ L die , with the ram at the top position with the fired case in the shellholder lower the die down to where you feel it making contact with the case , lower it each time an try it in your rifle untill it Chambers with very little resistance , that's zero case headspace , screw the die down very little until the bolt closes with no resistance , you could be .001 - 2 headspace . Better then oversizing every time .
I don't know if your new to reloading but there are gages to help in finding your chamber length to make accurate full sized cases . By feel using the die will get you in the ballpark .
I don't know if your new to reloading but there are gages to help in finding your chamber length to make accurate full sized cases . By feel using the die will get you in the ballpark .