New BP Rifle
- Thread starter KTB14
- Start date
DD4lifeusmc
New member
new BP rifle
personally never heard of it.
A little more info?
google search only comes up with a 45 caliber
Miroku made and is a traditional side lock.
Quality was questionable according to some reviews
personally never heard of it.
A little more info?
google search only comes up with a 45 caliber
Miroku made and is a traditional side lock.
Quality was questionable according to some reviews
robhof
Hawg nailed it, Miroku made b/p guns for many US importers and the quality was all over the place. Had a friend that had a Tennessee rifle from DGW and it was well made and shot well. I have handled many of their pistols and shot some, most needed fitting and work to get the best performance. Their flinters tend to to not spark well, at least the ones I shot didn't. The only way to know is to shoot it.
Hawg nailed it, Miroku made b/p guns for many US importers and the quality was all over the place. Had a friend that had a Tennessee rifle from DGW and it was well made and shot well. I have handled many of their pistols and shot some, most needed fitting and work to get the best performance. Their flinters tend to to not spark well, at least the ones I shot didn't. The only way to know is to shoot it.
This thread perked my interest because I recently picked up a similar rifle (Euroarms .44 cal Kentucky Jaeger). I have the .430 mold and .010 patches but I was wondering what you guys would recommend for a load. I was thinking like 50gr of fff. Thoughts?
Also, how important are lubed patches? I bought them lubed because thats what they had but is that important? can you shoot them dry?
thanks.
Mike.
Also, how important are lubed patches? I bought them lubed because thats what they had but is that important? can you shoot them dry?
thanks.
Mike.
robhof
The old rule of thumb was to start with grain equal to caliber 44=44gr. and work up from there, usually not to exceed twice caliber, that was in an old Italian kit gun that I built in the 60's. Dry patches will be extremely difficult to load and become more difficult as residue builds up, lube keeps the residue soft and aids in reloading and cleaning. Spit works in a pinch.
The old rule of thumb was to start with grain equal to caliber 44=44gr. and work up from there, usually not to exceed twice caliber, that was in an old Italian kit gun that I built in the 60's. Dry patches will be extremely difficult to load and become more difficult as residue builds up, lube keeps the residue soft and aids in reloading and cleaning. Spit works in a pinch.
Start w/ 50 and go towards 85 grains 3Fg. Look for best group and stop there.
As far as "lubed" patches go, I recommend starting with simple "spit" moistened
patching (pillow ticking) as one of the best patch lubes ever devised.
Swab down-and-back up with another moistened patch between loading the next
charge/ball. That gets 90% of the fouling and leaves the rest softened to where
the next ball can be seated w/o issue.
As far as "lubed" patches go, I recommend starting with simple "spit" moistened
patching (pillow ticking) as one of the best patch lubes ever devised.
Swab down-and-back up with another moistened patch between loading the next
charge/ball. That gets 90% of the fouling and leaves the rest softened to where
the next ball can be seated w/o issue.