need to reload 270 win rifle, own a Dillon 550B

K

k2man

New member
Hi everyone. I guess I've never posted here before, but have read a bunch and appreciate everyone's posts.

I have been reloading handguns for a short while, and am going to start my first rifle cartridge reloading adventure - 270 Winchester - to shoot from my new Tikka T3 Stainless Laminated rifle. I'm looking for advice on what dies and anything else I'll need.

I have a Dillon 550B press, powder scales, brass wet tumbler - all stuff I've been using to reload .44 mags and 45 ACP.

What are the best dies to buy - Dillon or is Redding better? How many dies - I've been reading about rifle dies but I'm confused now.

I don't use any lube with handgun cartridges as I've got Dillon carbide dies - but I'll need to lube the rifle cartridges. What's the options on lube?

Any other stuff that is nice to have? I don't plan on shooting more than a few hundred rounds a month - maybe not that much once I get me and the rifle broke in.

I study stuff a lot and like to get everything right. I'll spend a few extra $ to get better quality and accuracy.
 
The most confusion I have is over case trimming. What is required for case trimming? I'm seeing Universal Trimmers for $100 - but they need shell holders - which ones?, Case Prep tools for $20 to $100, deburring tools. Sorry for so many questions, I probably need to do a lot more reading.
 
Here are two or three items for consideration. You will of course need the large powder charge bar for rifle loading rather than the smaller bar for handgun cases. Yes lubing should be required. I would suggest the RCBS roll on Case Lube 2. Note that the lower portions of the case only need to be lubed. Lubrication on the neck and shoulder will result in lube dents but will iron out upon firing. Set up the adjustments for each die station individually and start loading by cycling one round through at a time to completion. If going progressive seems too cramped due to limited space, you may want to continue that way. For trimming, try one of the lathe types like RCBS or Forster. What are needed are the .270 pilot for holding the neck and a collet for the .270 base (which is the same as for the .30-06). These I guess are around the $100 price range. Any die set like RCBS will do fine.
 
I also reload .270, first on a single stage and now on a progressive. I use Hornady dies (custom grade not the cheaper American gunner ones). I like them because the seating die has a sleeve in it that helps align the bullet. The lube pad suggested above is a great way to lube your cases, but the Hornady One Shot spray lube has worked for me as well.

A lathe type trimmer is the way to go, unless you go all in and get a motorized one. Forster makes the one I use.

While you are on Forster's website, get a case neck graphiter tool. It really helps you avoid sticky expander balls in .270 case necks.

As far as deburring/chamferring goes, you can do that with a handheld tool like the one RCBS makes or you can go all in and get a motorized case prep center that motorizes several tools at once.
 
Good point on the above post for using the case neck graphite tool if pulling back over the expander plug is difficult. Another method that can be used is with the Hornady one shot spray lube. The most efficient way to use that is to spray some into a small container and apply, before lubing the outside, with a Q tip to the inside of the case necks. This is a dry lube and will dry within a few seconds and not contaminate the inside of the cases. I have not found the Hornady to be very effective with outside case lubing and much prefer the more heavy duty RCBS roll on type. Sizing rifle brass will exert much more pressure on the press than sizing handgun brass so make sizing as easy as possible. When setting up the die adjustments, my suggestion is to first set up and establish the powder charge and the other die adjustments to follow, rather than trying to do it in a progressive manner. Then proceed to reload by initially cycling one round at a time to completion. Then proceed to progressive if it is comfortable doing so.
 
Last edited:
Imperial case lube, the Hornady trimmer with shellholder and pilot, great trimmer! I am very partial to Forster dies, but Dillon is fine. Forster case lube is also very good.

Lube from the shoulder down, but not above, and graphite the inside of the necks. Imperial is nowhere near as fiddlesome as a lube pad and is generally considered the best rifle case lube.

One Shot, that's is about what you get before you stick a case.I won't use that c##p ever again, but some folks have had better luck.

Dillon has a different type of powder die that you can pour a weighed charge through with a funnel if you want to use stick powder, give them a call.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top