Need to combat tune a 686...

R

Running Gunfight

New member
Hi. First post here.

I just got a 686 from my dad and I want to lighten and smooth the trigger.

I am considering the S&W custom shop "Combat Revolver Package" in which they do a trigger job and stop. I may also have them put a 3" barrel on to make it a sort of custom "customs" gun.

Has anyone ever had the custom shop do work for them? What is their rep?

Finally, can someone point me to a highly respected smith or two who works on S&W revolvers? Having acquired the guns I want for defense a while ago, I am out of the loop as far as the primo combat smiths anymore.

Thanks.
 
Look into C&S

You could look into the "Cylinder & Slide shop"- put that in your search engine.
I believe they enjoy a good rep. with revolvers. Or you could get adventurous
and order springs from Brownells if you want to try it yourself. You probably cannot duplicate the work of a top shop with lots of skills and resources, but you can lighten up the trigger pull, just so you don't get it too light or unreliable. That is why they send a set of springs of different power. And get a set of their S&W screwdriver bits if you don't have something like that. You don't want anyone to see buggered screws on it! Get the S&W gunsmithing book by Jerry Kuhnhausen if you have any doubts and look at that first(THE S&W Revolver, A shop manual") from Brownells, also, or sometimes gun book sellers have it at shows, or look in SGN.
 
Karl Sokol

I had the S&W Performance Center do a trigger job on a semi-auto, but never any work on my revolvers. All the custom revolvers I've had built were done by Karl Sokol of Chestnut Mountain Sports in W. Rutland, VT. His work is perfect and I wouldn't trust my wheel guns to anyone else.

I've had a 6" 686 built up for pin and plate shooting, 3" M65 carry gun, M625 5" action tuned and a K22 pin and plate gun built by him. He has an excellent reputation and you can see his work in Comban Handguns on occasion.
 
Thanks again guys....

for getting me headed in the right direction.

I see that if I have the trigger job done, I may not be able to use Pach compac pros grips like I wanted to, but would have to stick with the hogues.

Given that, I may stay with the factory trigger and just have it chopped down to 3" and perhaps some combat sights. This gun has never been shot and may smooth up some more after some shooting. It is not a bad trigger, I just like them a little lighter.
 
Just the springs

You can still reduce the trigger pull by putting in a reduced power trigger return spring, or/and a reduced power hammer spring, depending on how the first feels. You can also try a couple careful turns off the mainspring tensioning screw, if it is only for target or plinking. Too little tension on the main spring will let the spring straigten out too much and cause binding and maybe unreliability. Changing springs does not alter the gun, so it can be changed back. More extensive trigger jobs may require replaceing action parts, polishing parts, work on the sear, etc. that only experienced pros can do. Also a good cleaning of the insides and lubing with breakfree or hi tech lubes can help, especially in stainless guns. Sometimes the factory lube job inside is kinda cruddy. Or excessive. And you can use whatever grips you want. Just keep in mind with lighter springs you must fire various rounds to be sure you are getting good ignition. Look for light hits on primers, especially in DA, and make sure the trigger return is not too weak or slow.
Cock the hammer and make sure the hammer cannot be pushed off, (to fall under thumb pressure).
 
Leave the springs alone if it might be used for defensive purposes.

Several thousand dry-fires will help the trigger smooth out too, and is a better choice.
 
HSmith is right. Stay with the stock springs. You can have the action polished glassy smooth by a good revolver smith,smooth and round the trigger,and your set.
As someone else said, the more you shoot it the smoother it will become.I have the chambers chamfered on all of mine that are not the older recessed chambers,which helps with speed reloading a semi wadcuuter style bullet,but that modificfation is is not completely necessary.
 
As far as a "tune", you can do it yourself.
If you wish to buy some Wolff springs to lighten the pull, you can.
I feel no reason to lighten the spring tension pull on "combat" type handgun. The springs are that tension for a reason. To go bang every time. It may be a life and death matter sometime.
I used 600 grit sand paper on everything that moved on my S&W revolvers. Smooth as silk action. I do not lighten the spings though.
Also round off the bottom of the trigger to get a better feel in your hand.
 
Dave Berryhill does some fine work on revolvers too.

You've got a good idea for a nice carry package. one of my 66's is on it's way to Berryhill now for damn near that exact package.
 
STOP, before you change anything spend some time doing two things, Dryfire the living daylights out of the thing and shoot it till you KNOW you want to change it.
 
To summarize:

1. Go slow and become familiar with the gun as-is, before you start to mod it

2. Many S&Ws in my experience are indeed very dry and/or dirty from the factory and need a good clean & lube

3. You can try installing spring kits, but they can lead to failures to fire that could be a problem in competition or disasterous in a defensive situation
 
How do I telll when it was made?

The numbers I have found are:

CEM4282 on the frame when i open the cylinder, along with 686-5.
On the cylinder arm itself is 366.

If I give these to S&W, will they tell me?

Thanks by the way for the advice. I plan to shoot it for a while before making any rash decisions. Just getting the reloader accessories together for 38/357.
 
STOP, before you change anything spend some time doing two things, Dryfire the living daylights out of the thing and shoot it till you KNOW you want to change it.
Click to expand...

IMHO - This is the best bit of advice I have read so far. There are plenty of Gunsmiths who can do whatever you want - only you will know what you need though. :rolleyes:
 
Thanks guys....

again, I am certainly leaving the trigger alone. The only options I will consider will be a shorten to 3" and the extreme duty sights. I already put some compac pros on it, which are nice.

Thanks Brian for the date of manufacture.
 
I carried a 686-5 every day for four years while working. Shortening the barrel is not required, and I certainly wouldn't recommend it. The sights could use some work as shooting in low-light conditions can be iffy with the traditional rear sight on those ladies.

Smoothing the trigger? Well, I have 10,000 rounds logged through mine and it's never been to a smith. The action is, however, considerably smoother than the stock, unfired pistols in the inventory.

Were I to suggest anything, having some experience with this platform, I would suggest you spend several thousand rounds at the range and then start thinking about mods and such. It's only after you've become intimately familiar with a weapon that you should think about modifying it. Really, with a C&S rear sight onboard, you don't need anything else; cutting the bbl down an inch won't do anything but increase the flash and lessen the performance of the defensive round.

And don't get me started on the 1911!
 
Running,
A few years back, I sent off to Smith, an old, worn Model 65, with a 4 inch barrel. When I got it back, it was wearing a brand new heavy 3 inch barrel, a bobbed hammer, DAO lockwork, trigger stop, and new springs throughout. They set the timing back to factory specs, put in all new trigger parts, and a few more things here and there.
I put on a pair of Hogue's LamoCamo grips, and boy does in it shoot well now !
The factory charged me $272, which included parts and labor. Turn around time was about a month.
I am well pleased with their service, and quality.
 
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