Need some advice

PJR

New member
After years of toting around my Tikka for small game and varmints I traded it in for a .223 Sako 75. As much as I liked that Tikka, the Sako is a fine piece of work. The trouble is that I haven't been able to get to the range to break it in because of the snow and ice.

Until I do I'm thinking about optics. One scope that interests me is the Leupold Compact EFR 3x-9x with adjustable objective. Does anyone have an experience with these that they can share or have any other suggestions for me?
 
A Leupold compact is a good choice, however IMO A/O serves no useful purpose on a walking-around varmint/smallgame hunting rifle... it's more of a liability than a benefit. -- Kernel
 
Kernel, can you clarify what you mean by a "liability?" I tend to agree with you that the AO doesn't add much for the stated application, but how is it a "liability?" Like as not, PJR would just set it at some intermediate range and forget about it. If by liability you mean a feature that adds cost with little additional value, I'd agree.

Howsoever (grin), I LIKE EFR scopes on my .22 rimfires. It's really nice to be able to crank the focus down to 15 yards for shooting on the indoor range when snow and ice won't let you outdoors! My range doesn't allow centerfire rifle cartridges of any sort; .22s and lead handgun (no magnums) only. If you have access to a short indoor range that does allow centerfire rifle, go for the EFR.

Oh, and also consider Burris' compact EFRs. They have a 3-9X and a 4-12X
 
Legionnaire, Your one of the few people I've meet who understand the purpose of A/O. They're not really for shooting stuff a extreme long range..... they're for shooting teeny tiny groups extreme short range. That's why air rifle scopes are almost always A/O. The optical illusion we call "parallax" is most pronounced at short range. Look at the increment markings on an A/O scope. 3/4ths of the scale is from 10 yds to 100 yds. The adjustment from 400 to 500 yds is a tiny little sliver.

By liability I mean A/O adds cost, weight, complexity, frailty, and size. In return it helps you shoot one hole groups at 15 yds. Not a real advantage in a hunting rifle. How would one even use A/O on a hunting rifle? You gotta know the range exactly, not an easy feat once you step off a marked shooting range and start pursuing moving game on even ground. You see a coyote at 200 yds (assume you know 200 and not 247). You got 7 seconds to take a shot. Do you: A) Raise the rifle and shoot. B) Crank the power ring from 6x to 12x. C) Fiddle with the A/O bell and turn it from 150 yds to 200? My answer is "A", I've tried B & C and went home empty handed.

There's actually an easier way to minimize parallax - pick your rings and base so your eye lines up perfectly with your scope when you cheek is welded to the stock. I like using leather cheek pieces on my rifles. Parallax is the perceived movement of the cross hairs relative to the target caused when you move you're eye relative to the ocular lens. Here's the key point: If your eye is always in the exact same spot you will see no parallax at any range. This also gets back to the air rifle shooters since they have to dismount their single shot rifles every time they shoot.

Having said all this let me add that I personally do own a number of scopes with A/O. I'm not sure they help me shoot significantly smaller groups but they look cool and I like gizmos as much as the next guy, however when I'm hunting I'll set them on a fixed range and mentally duct tape them in place, same goes for the power setting on my variables. Life is short and I've missed to many opportunities messing with hardware instead of pulling the trigger. -- Kernel
 
Scope Recommendation

I have a Bushnell Sportsview 4x12 AO on my Ruger 223 that has served me well for the last 5 years. The 223 is fairly low impact/recoil and the scope can be had for around $80.00.
 
Kernel, we're on the same page. Only other (novel) application I've heard of is for the side focus adjustables . . . to use them for "gross" range estimation. That is: (1) see long range target at unknown distance; (2) use side focus to eliminate (minimize) observable parallax; (3) read distance off the turret. Probably puts you in the ballpark, give or take 50 yards (don't know, as I've never done this).
 
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