Need help with Smith & Wesson 686+

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ump45

New member
After shooting at the range today, when I was putting the gun away I noticed that the chamber became locked. Fortunately it is unloaded. But I cannot open the chamber. I try pressing the chamber release lever to open it up, but it won't come open at all.

The range master said it could be the inegral lock, but I've never used it before EVER. I threw it away when I got the gun, since I don't need it (I have a nice gun safe instead).

Any ideas on how to get this gun working again?
 
I'm a newbie, so take this with a grain of salt,

To get it open to see whats wrong you may ned to get past the ejector rod and the cylinder stop.

For the cylinder lock, cock the hammer a little bit and slide a business card between it and the cylinder.

For the locking bolt, you can push the locking bolt and the end of the barrel in with a matchstick to make it let go.

If you do both, you can pull out the cylinder and see what's wrong.

Hope that helps
 
Ok I have more information now.

I cocked back the hammer and dry-fired the gun. After doing that, I could release the cylinder chamber.

However, if I close, open, close, open the cylinder, then after a few times of doing that it gets locked up again.

Does anyone know what is causing this?
 
Almost brand new. I've taken it to the range a couple times already. Haven't fired more than 100 rounds out of it. Are you thinking about the warranty? Thanks for the help by the way.
 
I was wondering if you have the new-style lock that S&W is equipping their handguns with. It's actually part of the revolver.

Look on the left side, just above the cylinder release latch. Do you have a blank sideplate, or is there a small circular recess with a pin in the center? Kinda looks like a Federal Hydra-Shok cartridge head-on...
 
S&W integral lock

Here's what I was trying to describe in words...the picture is a heck of a lot simpler to understand. Had to figure out how to include an image...
 

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Yeah but even with that integral lock engaged, you should still be able to open the cylinder. That lock only makes it so you can't move the hammer i believe.
 
Good point tw1112. Hadn't thought that far ahead. Was just trying to determine if ump45 had new- or old-style frame, then troubleshoot from there.
 
Scared the heck out of me when this happened--but I suspect and hope for you that it's the same deal. The cylinder release mechanism won't release the cylinder because the rod that extends forward from the axis of the cylinder under the barrel has screwed a little loose; hence, it's now too long to be released by the latch that you're pushing forward with the release button. So first, you have to get it open--which is sounds like you did. Then, you need to tighten the cylinder rod; but IT TIGHTENS BACKWARD from how you'd expect a normal screw to be threaded. If you get it really good and hand tight, your problem will (I bet) disappear (i.e., it has nothing to do with the internal lock). If this is the case, and it has worked loose, you need to carefully tighten it with a pair of pliers and a piece of leather (so as not to mar it). It should be quite snug, since they do have a ntendency to work loose on the 686. I hope that's your problem, 'cause it's the easiest fix imaginable.

Cw
 
Chris is probably right. One additional item: When you are tightening the ejector rod, put a couple of empty cases in the cylinder to help hold the star in place.
 
Chris, another good idea!

And ump45, check one more thing...make sure there's no grit or other foreign bodies under the extractor star that would cause it to not seat properly against the cylinder face.

ump45, I'm assuming there's no binding of the cylinder when you dry fire? Do double action trigger pulls all feel consistent?
 
Ok I'll check if the ejector rod has come loose when I get home tonight.

Chugach, yes the trigger pulls feel consitent. Should I be cleaning under the extractor star? Currnetly I just give the frame a good wipe down with some CLP after I get back from the range. Is there anything else I should be doing to clean a revolver? Thanks.
 
Sounds like you're doing fine. Whenever you eject spent cartridges, just look at the cylinder face underneath where the star normally sits. It's real obvious if you need to clean.

I think Chris, Clemson, and Sprout have you on the right track with checking the ejector rod and its lock-up (or too much thereof).

Let us know what you find!
 
One thing I learned the hard way: keep under the star clean and do NOT oil the ejector rod shaft on that side. As you eject spent brass, hardened carbon falls and will stick to the rod if it has oil on it. When the rod goes in, it wipes the carbon out to the star surface. It doesn't take much to get the star pushed out far enough to bind.
 
ump45,
I was going to mention the ejector rod unscrewing itself too, but they beat me to it.

So after you have checked all the above, and tightened the rod,
(I blue locktite mine, I absolutly do not want the rod unscrewing at the wrong time.), spin the cylinder. While spinning the cylinder look at the very end of the ejector rod and make sure it is perfectly square.
I had a Mdl 14 that was cut crooked. It drove us nuts trying to find out why it would refuse to open one time, but the next time it would open fine. The long side was catching the back side of the locking bolt.
Once carefully squared off, there was no more problem.
 
I tightened up the ejector rod and now the cylinder is opening consistently.

I'll check on whether the end of the rod is cut square tonight.

Thanks.
 
Ejector rods tend to come loose fairly frequently on Smiths. At least that has been my experience. If you're going to use if for defense I would suggest you locktight it in place and tighten it more than hand tight. Use some pliers and a piece of leather in between to get it tighter, just don't overdue it. Snug is fine. They tighten counter clockwise and be carefull not to bugger up the knarled end.

Another plug for the GP100.
 
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