Need help with an S&W revolver...

S

smokeman13b

Inactive
So I have acquired this Smith and Wesson revolver. Flyfish informs me that it is a pre model 10, circa early 1940's. My question is what would it take to get it servicable again monitarily speaking and what will that do to the value?

The cylinder stop is missing and it has some wiggle in the cylinder on the center pin, allowing for some gap between barrell and cylinder. The finish is a nice "petina" to put it mildly and the stocks seem to be original.

I'm a hairs breath from just sending it back to S&W and asking for a total refurb.

Any suggestions?

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it looks like it has been worn in right proper . nothing like doing a refurb your self , i have done a few and it just makes you feel al tingly inside . But I do not sell anything i aquire gun wise so the money value is of no use to me . the finish does not look terrible from the pictures i may would leave it be but thats a personal thing . i have few that have some wiggle in the cly but they shoot anyway , right now i have iver johnson that has more wiggle than any rap video , the dimpel the center pin locks into is worn very bad and i plan to spot it with the welder and re dimple . I am not expert by a long shot but i do know from experiance that this kind of work takes a whole lot of time and is tedious as hell . BUT if you take your time you can learn alot and feel good with the end result. Many may say dont strip the old finish youll kill the value but it all depends on what your plans are for the gun . To me seeing a rusted gun makes me lose sleep . I have some that are petinaed nice and have no plans to refinsh , i have some that have been refinshed and i have some that are on the to do list . You should still be able to find parts for that gun . and if its only a 2-300 gun then i would not be too concerned with messing it up , but somthing like a kimber then yea i may send it off :)
 
nothing you can do to it will increase it's value. Fix it up only if that's what you want, don't do anything expecting to get it back on selling. Won't happen.
There's no reason to do this at all unless the gun has some personal meaning, like you got it from a relative. Don't do anything to it otherwise, get a gun that already works. Keep this for a conversation piece.
 
Well I generally never sell my guns, so increasing the value really isn't at the top of my wish list. However, this being the case...it would be nice if I could use it as a learning tool.

So the next question is...

Where can I find a good diagram of what the internal workings should look like and where can I find inexpensive parts?
 
Jerry Kuhnhausen's manuals are the ones most recommended.
http://www.midwayusa.com/browse/BrowseProducts.aspx?brandid=1195

You aren't just replacing parts that come out, when you're talking about the cylinder stop, that's going to be more involved. I'm not sure if he goes into that or not.

Brownell's and Midway are good sources, if anybody has the parts you need they will I guess. There's another source I remember reading about but it's not coming to mind, maybe I will be able to find it. Numrich, maybe?

Some tools will be necessary, a screwdriver set specifically for guns, or modify tools you already have to work (I think I remember Kuhnhausen doing that). I believe Midway had a really good page for the tools you will need, even if you don't buy from them... I'll see if I can find a link to that too. There are some specific tools, a "rebound spring tool" comes to mind...

Unlike, say, building an AR from a parts kit, this is not something you can do from internet sources. It's a real live hobby.
 
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That is a M&P, Model of 1905, but there are some variations that affect parts interchangeability, so make sure you include the serial number when ordering parts.

The lack of finish is not due solely to wear and normal use. Someone polished that gun pretty heavily. Make sure the cylinder retaining lug is still high enough to function properly.

Jim
 
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