Need help stripping Ruger .22

B

Battler

New member
22/45 stainless

I just bought the gun, and want to be sure I can take it down for cleaning after first firing (and to clean BEFORE first firing).

I read the manual; but I don't have it with me right now - I won't be using the right terminology; but anyone with the gun will know what I mean. As the manual said, I swung out the (mainspring housing?) and hit the bolt retainer until it was down far enough to be inaccessible, while pulling.

However, I can't seem to get the thing out no matter how much I pull. Is the manual wrong? Is there something I forgot to do?

I dryfired the gun before beginning, the gun is empty, mag is out - can someone describe the field stripping procedure?

thanks,

battler.
 
From the top.

With the hammer down, pull out and down on the mainspring housing latch. (I use a .22 empty case rather than a screwdriver to avoid scratches)

Swing the mainspring housing out until you can get your hand around it. Pull downward, twisting a little. The mainspring housing and the attached bolt stop will come out.

On new guns, these tend to be quite tight, so don't be afraid to use a little muscle. At the extreme, you can tap the top of the stop with a brass punch, but I don't think that will be necessary.

When re-installing, make sure the hammer strut is engaged in its hole in the mainspring housing before closing the housing. To check before latching, press the housing in and see if there is spring tension. If there is not, check the position of the strut.

Jim
 
Battler,

Try going to www.ontargetguns.com. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I remember that they have a detailed section with pics on the stripping of the mark 2 and the 22/45.
When my 22/45 was NEW, the bolt retainer was tough to get out. After a few trys it came out a little easier. Good luck getting it back in. ;)
Just practice it until you feel comfortable doing it. It gets easier.
Good luck
Jeepster


Jim beat me to it

[This message has been edited by jeepster (edited August 07, 2000).]
 
Well I just did this yesterday so hopefully I can explain it. I too am hazy on the terminology, and don't really know where you started, so I will start from the begining.
First I took out the mag, and checked for empty, then pulled the trigger.
I pulled the latch out from the grip, and continued to pull it around the "slide" this forces the pin out. Just pull it straight up(with the gun inverted) to get it out. Now the "slide" portion should come out of the gun.
To re assemble. Have the gun pointed down when you put the rod in place, pull the trigger, then tilt the gun up till you see the pin fall on the piece you are putting back into the grip. The hardest part is getting the rod to set in place in the"slide". Man I hope this helps, I worked on it for a while till I relized I need to pull the trigger to get it to set right.
 
The real secret is pulling the trigger first before pulling out the boltstop but after you make sure the pistol is unloaded.
When you put it back you will need to pull the trigger again to get the boltstop back in. goodshot
 
Pull the trigger and remove the housing with the muzzle pointed up. Make sure the mag is out. If you do this, the housing pops right out. The muzzle must also be pointed up during replacement of this part.

Ledbetter
 
The Ontargetguns site does indeed have a superb set of tips for doing this, but I strongly advise that you find someone who knows how to reassemble this wonderful tack driver the first time or two that you do it. You can easily ruin this gun before you have ever fired it. Very tricky and unusual procedure, even if you are well familiar with other guns.
 
Some come apart easy, some feel like they are glued together. My problem is putting them back together in a reasonable time. :\
 
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