Need Help on Fletching Jigs: 2 degree or 4 degree offset?

F

FirstFreedom

Moderator
Guys, I'm new to do-it-yourself archery. I'm tired of paying people to fletch my arrows.

My question is this: I'm going to buy a 3-fletch-at-once fletching jig, for plastic vanes, offset right, and I can choose either 2 degree or 4 degree offset. Now this is for Quik-Spin ST 2.25" vanes *right now*, but it will be used as a general purpose jig for these and other vanes (including Blazers). The "Blazer Vane" jig specifically made by Bohning for Blazers is a 2 degree offset, but will I be better off for general use and for quick spins using a 4 degree, or just stick with the 2 degree? 2 degrees doesn't seem like much. It seems like 4 degree would be better for imparting a good spin, but then again, I'm sure Bohning knows what they're doing - any help here? Thanks.

P.S. Also, these off-the-shelf bow clamps that have two ends that grab your split limbs with T-handles that going in between the split and draw the limbs in when you turn the crank - do these types work, or am I better off waiting and saving up for a true large bow cradle for stringing etc? Thanks.
 
Another thing - of all the many archery forums, which one is one you recommend as a good place to start and register at first, with good peeps? Too many choices....
 
FF - As always, don't take my nonsense for gospel, but..

For carbon arrows, I think you will be fine with 2 degrees. The quick-spins have a "kicker" on them that will assist with the spin anyway. Are you shooting a biskit? My buddy could never get quick-spins to work with his biskit, as the kicker would hit the fibers and go a little crazy.

I shoot a biskit and would hesitate to go with a 4 degree for the same reason - you are trying to force more angle through fibers that kinda want things to go straight.

I used to do all my own fletching, but don't have the time anymore. With the 2" blazers, I am not ripping them or losing them anymore, so it is not an issue.

I have not used a bow-press like you describe - my bows don't have split limbs, so no help there...
 
No dave, that's very helpful - that makes a lot of sense; thanks. I think I'll stick with the 2 degree offset - as you say, if it works for straight blazers, it should work for the quik-spins with the extra kicker. And the less friction going through the biscuit, the better.

On Quik-Spins.....I shoot some arrows with 4" quik-spins through a bow with the biscuit and they work just great. Sure the vanes get "roughed up" over time and therefore look all "wavy" the whole length of the vane, but still, they hit where I'm aiming every time, and they don't tear off, so.....

It will be interesting to see, about the 2" quik-spins (actually they are 2.25") whether:
-they are accurate - more, less, or the same as blazers, 4" quick-spins, or others
-the new "ST" variety - "super tough" supposedly - get wavy as the non-ST 4 inchers did, or will they stand up to the biscuit without deforming?

The quik-spin people say that you can get them in 1", 2", 3", and 4" - your choice (rounding off) - but I have never seen anything in stores except 2" and 4". I can't imagine how small your arrow would have to be for the 1" vanes to work, but I could see the 3 inchers being a good compromise between weight and stability if the 2 inchers don't work...stay tuned.

I guess those doohickeys could be called "bow pulls" instead of "bow presses". :)

I just cut down 6 arrows to 25 and 1/8" total length from insert to far rear of nock, so these are very short. They are super-flexy CE Thunderstorm SEs - these are the arrows which will be receiving the 2.25" quik-spins - then tried in the Liberty I bow - it has a "overdraw" biscuit (set back), so I could go this short on the arrows, to try for a high-speed rig. I want to have very little drop out to 30 yards.
 
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FF - refresh my memory, what weight is your liberty set at?

I agree that flatter is better - decreases impact of yardage estimate error, but I have never got it flat enough to not have a 20 and 30 yard pin, so since I have 2 pins anyway, I want some mass at contact.

When I was shooting strictly a 70# recurve, I was shooting wood shafts and big Magnus broadheads (I think they are 165 gr.). It was a really "slow" set-up, but would just keep plowing along upon contact due to the mass.
 
I use a TM Hunter split rest and prefer the 2 degree myself. I shoot with the vane shooting through the rest, and if I have a 4 degree the vane hits the rest kicking the arrow to the left. If you are shooting carbon the 2 degree is OK. If your shooting aluminum you may want the 4 degree. I really prefer a helical fletch with aluminum; that seems to be what my bow shoots best. Bows and guns are a lot alike in some ways; each has it's preference for different arrows, points, and weights for best performance. It's called tuning, and you have to experiment to see what combo shoots best. CB.
 
You have to remember that spinning has a purpose and that it comes at a price. The purpose it to help stabilize the arrow as it flies. In theory, faster spin makes the arrow more stable. However, as in all things, there is a tradeoff. The more an arrow spins, the faster it sheds velocity. I'd much rather have a 2 degree offset giving me a "reasonable" spin and save as much velocity as I can.
 
Doyle and others, thanks very much - quite helpful.

I ended up snagging a rather nice Bitzenburger fletching jig which is NOT a 3-at-a-time jig, but it's adjustable to put on any angle I wish, so I'll start with 2 degree and can change from there. Thanks again. :)

http://www.bitzenburger.com/

Dave... yeah, I'm still gonna use a 30 yard pin in addition to the 20 yard pin (a 40 also), but I just want to be off by LESS in the event I misjudge the distance. :)

Oh, the Liberty bow is *supposedly* set at 75 lbs, but frankly, I don't buy it - it feels easier to pull back than my Hoyt when set on 70. I haven't yet taken it to get tested for actual pull weight and have no tool at home to do that. My guess is that it's around 65 lbs.
 
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