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need help on browning model 81
- Thread starter blackcote
- Start date
Yes, there are. Rubber recoil pads are (normally) screwed on with a screwdriver punched THROUGH the rubber to reach the screws holding the hard plastic backing. When the screwdriver is withdrawn, the rubber closes around the hole and it becomes almost invisible.
(Some gunsmiths and DIY types do glue on pads, but they quickly learn that removing one almost always damages the stock.)
Jim
(Some gunsmiths and DIY types do glue on pads, but they quickly learn that removing one almost always damages the stock.)
Jim
Take your thumbs and spread the rubber apart and you should be able to see the screw holes (top- about 1" below the heel, bottom, about 1-1/2" above the toe of the stock). Use a round shaft Philips head screwdriver. Put a drop of oil on your screwdriver before you put it in the hole, it will keep your tools from scuffing the recoil pad and wallowing out the holes in the the pad face.
Hi, Scorch,
Not all pads were put on with Philips screws; the older ones are attached with round-head slot heads. Since Blackcote is removing the old pad, he probably doesn't care about its appearance, but for installing the new one, I agree on using a round screwdriver, but recommend using liquid hand soap as a lubricant rather than oil as oil will rot some types of rubber. A little cake soap is also good on wood screws for a lubricant that won't harm wood.
Almost forgot. With a new pad there are no holes in the rubber. You have to make them by inserting an awl through the holes from the front, then insert the screw in those holes. If the holes don't line up with the old ones, use a pencil or a ball pen refill to mark the stock and then pre-drill the holes.
Also, once the pad is installed, you trim it down by using masking tape on the stock and then using a belt sander (you can do it with a sanding block or file, just takes longer) to trim off the excess pad. It takes a lot of care to not mar the stock.
Also, be sure to follow the stock line. Nothing shows an amateur job more than a recoil pad that has its bottom (toe) cut to line up with the barrel rather than with the original stock line.
Jim
Not all pads were put on with Philips screws; the older ones are attached with round-head slot heads. Since Blackcote is removing the old pad, he probably doesn't care about its appearance, but for installing the new one, I agree on using a round screwdriver, but recommend using liquid hand soap as a lubricant rather than oil as oil will rot some types of rubber. A little cake soap is also good on wood screws for a lubricant that won't harm wood.
Almost forgot. With a new pad there are no holes in the rubber. You have to make them by inserting an awl through the holes from the front, then insert the screw in those holes. If the holes don't line up with the old ones, use a pencil or a ball pen refill to mark the stock and then pre-drill the holes.
Also, once the pad is installed, you trim it down by using masking tape on the stock and then using a belt sander (you can do it with a sanding block or file, just takes longer) to trim off the excess pad. It takes a lot of care to not mar the stock.
Also, be sure to follow the stock line. Nothing shows an amateur job more than a recoil pad that has its bottom (toe) cut to line up with the barrel rather than with the original stock line.
Jim