I'm looking for a handgun to use mainly for self defense, but also want it to be very top quality, high performance, and carry lasting value. I know very little about upper echelon handguns, your advice would be very appreciated. I'm willing to make a good investment price wise. What guns would fit this criteria. Thanks in advance
Need help choosing the right handgun
- Thread starter auburn11
- Start date
Sheikyourbootie
New member
A bit more information would help.
Your experience with handguns.
Price Range?
For self defense are you talking house gun or are you talking concealed carry?
.....
Your experience with handguns.
Price Range?
For self defense are you talking house gun or are you talking concealed carry?
.....
A fantastic night-stand gun would be a .357 like a S&W 686 or Ruger GP100in a revolver. A good CCW revolver would be a S&W J-frame or Ruger LCR. There are many fantastic semi-autos - Sig, Kimber, HK, FN, Glock, S&W, Springfield, CZ, Walther, etc ...You need to provide way more information. If you have $$$ to burn get a Les Baer or a Wilson Combat 1911..............
CarbineCaleb
New member
Hi - you say self defense - good, will this be primarily for home defense or primarily for all day concealed carry?
Are you open to both semiautos and revolvers? Preference there?
Are you open to both semiautos and revolvers? Preference there?
Yes, more info would be helpful...
Your basically asking us to give you a recommendation for someone that asked, "what's a good quality 4 wheeled vehicle?"
"Top quality" .... "good investment"
Those terms means various things for folks. So, for a SD (self defense) gun you want solid dependability. Most modern firearms are very dependable - if properly taken care of. For simplicity a revolver would fit this need well.
Now for a good investment - all guns are going to be an investment. Just some are more to others. Firearms should not be looked at as an investment as most will depreciate once you have fired them. Yes, they come fired from the factory - but they're still classified as "new".... once you shoot one round through it - it's "used."
Firearms comes in lots and lots of models, actions and size combinations. Your hands and "taste" will determine which one is for you. If you have small hands then a full size HK may not be the best (HK is a top name brand).
So back to some basics to clear the air.
Cost is your main factor.
A "top quality" handgun will run around $1500-$2500.
A high end handgun will run about $800-$1400 and a mid range "average" firearm will run about $450-$750.
All these prices are very basic - factors that will influence cost is the name, size, materials (coating,etc) and caliber.
Also be aware that just because a gun worked for someone else - it may not work for you. You really need to do some more research. Go to several local gunstores and check out the guns in the cases. Handle them - do some research on the ones you like - find the features you want (e.g. capacity, external safety, decocker, magazine release, coatings, sights, and of course cost to name a few).
And lastly (but something you really need to consider first). Get some training. Find a good local instructor to teach you the basics - safety, how to shoot, etc. Invest in yourself! It'll save you tons in the long run as you'll shoot better and be more comfortable with your new firearm.
Your basically asking us to give you a recommendation for someone that asked, "what's a good quality 4 wheeled vehicle?"
"Top quality" .... "good investment"
Those terms means various things for folks. So, for a SD (self defense) gun you want solid dependability. Most modern firearms are very dependable - if properly taken care of. For simplicity a revolver would fit this need well.
Now for a good investment - all guns are going to be an investment. Just some are more to others. Firearms should not be looked at as an investment as most will depreciate once you have fired them. Yes, they come fired from the factory - but they're still classified as "new".... once you shoot one round through it - it's "used."
Firearms comes in lots and lots of models, actions and size combinations. Your hands and "taste" will determine which one is for you. If you have small hands then a full size HK may not be the best (HK is a top name brand).
So back to some basics to clear the air.
Cost is your main factor.
A "top quality" handgun will run around $1500-$2500.
A high end handgun will run about $800-$1400 and a mid range "average" firearm will run about $450-$750.
All these prices are very basic - factors that will influence cost is the name, size, materials (coating,etc) and caliber.
Also be aware that just because a gun worked for someone else - it may not work for you. You really need to do some more research. Go to several local gunstores and check out the guns in the cases. Handle them - do some research on the ones you like - find the features you want (e.g. capacity, external safety, decocker, magazine release, coatings, sights, and of course cost to name a few).
And lastly (but something you really need to consider first). Get some training. Find a good local instructor to teach you the basics - safety, how to shoot, etc. Invest in yourself! It'll save you tons in the long run as you'll shoot better and be more comfortable with your new firearm.
Although what the others have said is 100% true regarding needing more info on parameters, here are a few specific firearms to consider:
Revolver:
If primarily home defense (HD):
- 4" S&W 7 shot 686 .357
If mix of HD and carry self defense (SD),
- 3" version of same 686 or--easier yet to carry--discontinued Smith 66 or 65LS ("Lady Smith")--both .357. Don't let the name on the LS fool you: best combo of features you can get in a mixed-duty revolver, IM0. These are 6 shot.
The 66 is adjustable sight, a consideration if spending a lot of time at the range or field (hunting). Otherwise, the 65LS is a fixed sight which is fine for home and smoother holstering for carry duty. The 3" length is a great one. It's a mystery why S&W made so few. They provide a better sight radius and recoil (muzzle flip) control than the 2"+/- snubs, and easier carry than the 4 inchers. Three-inch 66s are not growing on trees out there. The 65LS in particular is getting to be a rare critter and pricey; worth it if you can find one however--the most "investment" worthy of the bunch, again IMO.
The only "downside" of the discontinued K frames (65, 66 etc)--versus the slightly larger "L" frame 686 model--is that they were not designed for a steady diet of today's popular, hot 125 grain .357 self-defense loads. They can take a variety of 158s all day long, many of which are fine for SD....and as mentioned below regarding carry options, most folks shoot .38s most of the time in them anyway, whether for range/target practice or in-home self defense...so the 125 grain limitation is, usually, a moot issue. As always, you can't get something for nothing. With the 686, you get a slightly larger, heavier gun that is--along with the penalty of that additional size/weight--is more "capable." If that size and weight are not a concern, there's your answer--and certainly an easier one in terms of actually finding one to suit your needs.
If primarily carry or concealed carry (CCW):
- Smith 60 or Ruger SP101 .357, and shoot primarily .38 (target) or .38+P (defense) loads most of the time anyway--especially in the home. These are 5 shot.
- Colt D-frame snubs: long discontinued, but the famous Detective Special (.38 Special) and Cobra (.357) are rare small frame combined with full 6 shot. The later (70s-early 80s?) models with full ejector shroud are worthy for SD consideration. The only small frame 6 shots currently being made in the .38/.357 class are Taurus-owned Rossi (.357) and Taurus itself (.38), and while there are some good reports on, others are mixed...and so there is less consensus yet on these to make a recommendation for your "investment."
Semi-auto:
Home-oriented defense (HD)
- H&K (Hechler & Koch) 9mm or .40S&W (variety of models, USP is one to look at)
-SIG 9mm or .40 Auto (variety of models)
The above autos are pricey, but since you seem willing to spend--they're "investment" worthy.
HD/SD/Carry combinations
- Above H&K 9 or 40 reg and compact
- Springfield 9 or 40 XDM reg and compact
- S&W M&P reg and compact 9 or 40
- Beretta PX4 Storm 9 or 40
- Walther 9 and 40
- CZ 75/85, P series 9 and 40.
The auto world in particular is a complex one in terms of preferences, features, prices. Once we know those more detailed parameters of your needs/intended use, folks can weigh in on desirable or undesirable features (esp the semi-autos), such as safety vs no safety, decocker vs not, DA or DA/SA vs SA. Most manufacturers of autos have a number of models with a mix of features, depending on what operating characteristics you (think you) want.
(EDITED later for additions)
Revolver:
If primarily home defense (HD):
- 4" S&W 7 shot 686 .357
If mix of HD and carry self defense (SD),
- 3" version of same 686 or--easier yet to carry--discontinued Smith 66 or 65LS ("Lady Smith")--both .357. Don't let the name on the LS fool you: best combo of features you can get in a mixed-duty revolver, IM0. These are 6 shot.
The 66 is adjustable sight, a consideration if spending a lot of time at the range or field (hunting). Otherwise, the 65LS is a fixed sight which is fine for home and smoother holstering for carry duty. The 3" length is a great one. It's a mystery why S&W made so few. They provide a better sight radius and recoil (muzzle flip) control than the 2"+/- snubs, and easier carry than the 4 inchers. Three-inch 66s are not growing on trees out there. The 65LS in particular is getting to be a rare critter and pricey; worth it if you can find one however--the most "investment" worthy of the bunch, again IMO.
The only "downside" of the discontinued K frames (65, 66 etc)--versus the slightly larger "L" frame 686 model--is that they were not designed for a steady diet of today's popular, hot 125 grain .357 self-defense loads. They can take a variety of 158s all day long, many of which are fine for SD....and as mentioned below regarding carry options, most folks shoot .38s most of the time in them anyway, whether for range/target practice or in-home self defense...so the 125 grain limitation is, usually, a moot issue. As always, you can't get something for nothing. With the 686, you get a slightly larger, heavier gun that is--along with the penalty of that additional size/weight--is more "capable." If that size and weight are not a concern, there's your answer--and certainly an easier one in terms of actually finding one to suit your needs.
If primarily carry or concealed carry (CCW):
- Smith 60 or Ruger SP101 .357, and shoot primarily .38 (target) or .38+P (defense) loads most of the time anyway--especially in the home. These are 5 shot.
- Colt D-frame snubs: long discontinued, but the famous Detective Special (.38 Special) and Cobra (.357) are rare small frame combined with full 6 shot. The later (70s-early 80s?) models with full ejector shroud are worthy for SD consideration. The only small frame 6 shots currently being made in the .38/.357 class are Taurus-owned Rossi (.357) and Taurus itself (.38), and while there are some good reports on, others are mixed...and so there is less consensus yet on these to make a recommendation for your "investment."
Semi-auto:
Home-oriented defense (HD)
- H&K (Hechler & Koch) 9mm or .40S&W (variety of models, USP is one to look at)
-SIG 9mm or .40 Auto (variety of models)
The above autos are pricey, but since you seem willing to spend--they're "investment" worthy.
HD/SD/Carry combinations
- Above H&K 9 or 40 reg and compact
- Springfield 9 or 40 XDM reg and compact
- S&W M&P reg and compact 9 or 40
- Beretta PX4 Storm 9 or 40
- Walther 9 and 40
- CZ 75/85, P series 9 and 40.
The auto world in particular is a complex one in terms of preferences, features, prices. Once we know those more detailed parameters of your needs/intended use, folks can weigh in on desirable or undesirable features (esp the semi-autos), such as safety vs no safety, decocker vs not, DA or DA/SA vs SA. Most manufacturers of autos have a number of models with a mix of features, depending on what operating characteristics you (think you) want.
(EDITED later for additions)
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I always ask how much experience do have in firing handguns, will you be seeking instruction and how much will you practice? One thing i always recommend is a good steel frame semiauto WITH a 22 converson unit. The latter lets you practice a lot, when you make the transition to centerfire the controls and the feel of the gun are all familiar.
Jeepin_Lawyer
New member
I always recommend going to a range that rents pistols and shooting as many as possible or finding a buddy that has "one of each" and again shoot as many as possible. 
There's a lot of semi-autos in the $700+ range that are high quality and reliable.
If you're fairly new, most would suggest something with a "DAO" (Double Action Only) trigger. This gives you a long smooth semi-heavy trigger pull for each shot. This doesn't mean it's a limitation. Once you master a DA trigger, you learn to start moving the trigger as you get your final sight alignment dialed in, for a very good shot-to-shot-speed system. It also gives you at least an aid in avoiding accidental discharge.
The second-best-for-a-newbie system is the "single action only" - light trigger for every shot. What I'd recommend avoiding is DA/SA - long trigger for the first shot, light thereafter. I wouldn't wish that on anybody.
Brands that work: H&K, Sig-Sauer, Glock, many others. You're going to have to try some out.
If you delve into the world of 1911s, consider STI, Les Bauer or some of the other high-end guys.
If you're fairly new, most would suggest something with a "DAO" (Double Action Only) trigger. This gives you a long smooth semi-heavy trigger pull for each shot. This doesn't mean it's a limitation. Once you master a DA trigger, you learn to start moving the trigger as you get your final sight alignment dialed in, for a very good shot-to-shot-speed system. It also gives you at least an aid in avoiding accidental discharge.
The second-best-for-a-newbie system is the "single action only" - light trigger for every shot. What I'd recommend avoiding is DA/SA - long trigger for the first shot, light thereafter. I wouldn't wish that on anybody.
Brands that work: H&K, Sig-Sauer, Glock, many others. You're going to have to try some out.
If you delve into the world of 1911s, consider STI, Les Bauer or some of the other high-end guys.
The "best" gun is the one YOU like, not anyone else. It will be a compromise of:
1. Fit - It should fit in your hand like you were born with it there.
2. Reliability - It should go BANG about 99.8% of the time you pull the trigger.
3. Accuracy - In YOUR hand. It's how well YOU shoot it.
4. Concealability - It should be comfortable enough to wear and easy enough to conceal so you won't leave it laying on the dresser at home.
5. Cost - You don't want to scrimp on your "life protector" weapon, but you probably don't need a $1,000 Kimber, either.
Find a range that rents guns and/or friends who will let you shoot theirs and try out as many as you can.
1. Fit - It should fit in your hand like you were born with it there.
2. Reliability - It should go BANG about 99.8% of the time you pull the trigger.
3. Accuracy - In YOUR hand. It's how well YOU shoot it.
4. Concealability - It should be comfortable enough to wear and easy enough to conceal so you won't leave it laying on the dresser at home.
5. Cost - You don't want to scrimp on your "life protector" weapon, but you probably don't need a $1,000 Kimber, either.
Find a range that rents guns and/or friends who will let you shoot theirs and try out as many as you can.
More info: I've never shot a handgun before (I have shot rifles and shotguns, although not much, but was suprisingly successfull the times I did-hitting more targets than my friends that hunt on a regular basis), but once purchasing one I plan to become well versed in handling and shooting the gun, will definitely train at a range. I would not carry the gun on a daily basic, but would want to be able to conceal it. With such little knowledge of handguns I'm not sure of which specifications I would want, but basically I want to be able to fire rapidly with accuracy and have something that can take me to whatever level I want to pursue with shooting. Sleek very clean lines in the looks department, but of course the performance of the gun matters the most to me. As far as my price range I would like to keep it under a three thousand dollars. I definitely agree I need to test many out at a range, and will do so soon, posts have been extremely helpful.
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I think you need more than one gun. With your price limit of $3,000 I think you won't have a problem buying have a dozen handguns!
I'd pick up a Smith and Wesson or Ruger in 357 magnum. Plenty of accuracy and versatility. Besides, who doesn't appreciate the blued steel and walnut of a quality Smith and Wesson?
I think for concealed carry your better of with a dedicated gun rather than trying to make do with something too big. A Smith and Wesson 637 in 38spl+p would fit the bill perfectly for me although there are tons of good choices out there.
You can probably get both of these for well under $1,000. I would invest the rest in reloading equipment.
I'd pick up a Smith and Wesson or Ruger in 357 magnum. Plenty of accuracy and versatility. Besides, who doesn't appreciate the blued steel and walnut of a quality Smith and Wesson?
I think for concealed carry your better of with a dedicated gun rather than trying to make do with something too big. A Smith and Wesson 637 in 38spl+p would fit the bill perfectly for me although there are tons of good choices out there.
You can probably get both of these for well under $1,000. I would invest the rest in reloading equipment.
good picks...
There are a few good posts here so far.
In general, I'd start with a simple DA-only .357 or .38spl +P revolver. As you learn to improve your skills and get more firearms training-marksmanship, you can move on to a hammer fired DA only semi auto pistol like the SIG Sauer P250 line or the Beretta PX4 Storm in C or D format(DA only). The SIG DAK models or the great HK P-2000/P-30 in LEM(law enforcement modification) would fit your needs too. To start, get a DA only law enforcement trade-in and learn to shoot/carry it. Some sworn LE officers, tactics instructors advise to carry what local PDs use on duty,
.
The .357sig is ideal as a carry-protection round but the .357magnum, .44spl or .38spl +P is fine.
Use only factory made, new ammunition and clean-inspect your sidearm(s) often. If you have a real use of force event, would you want the DA's office or criminal investigators to see your dirt, crud or rust covered handgun and take you seriously as a armed citizen or CCW permit holder?
Feel free to PM me if you wish.
There are a few good posts here so far.
In general, I'd start with a simple DA-only .357 or .38spl +P revolver. As you learn to improve your skills and get more firearms training-marksmanship, you can move on to a hammer fired DA only semi auto pistol like the SIG Sauer P250 line or the Beretta PX4 Storm in C or D format(DA only). The SIG DAK models or the great HK P-2000/P-30 in LEM(law enforcement modification) would fit your needs too. To start, get a DA only law enforcement trade-in and learn to shoot/carry it. Some sworn LE officers, tactics instructors advise to carry what local PDs use on duty,
. The .357sig is ideal as a carry-protection round but the .357magnum, .44spl or .38spl +P is fine.
Use only factory made, new ammunition and clean-inspect your sidearm(s) often. If you have a real use of force event, would you want the DA's office or criminal investigators to see your dirt, crud or rust covered handgun and take you seriously as a armed citizen or CCW permit holder?
Feel free to PM me if you wish.
Two Guns: A .22 for inexpensive practice and a .38/357 for expensive
If you choose a revolver vice an autoloader you can get two similar pistols from Smith and Wesson and stay well within your budget.
First - a .22 rimifire that will be fairly easy to shoot and uses inexpensive ammo (500-1000 rounds of .22 caliber ammo for practice each year is a lot cheaper than 500 rounds of large cailber ammo).
Second: a .38 or .357 revolver.
You probably won't get any bad advice onthis forum -- it will be up to you to choose which advice to take.
BTW: add to your budget: a gun storage case to hold the gun at home --- at least one pocket holster when carrying the weapon, you might wind up with two different ones (pocket/purse versions) --- hearing and eye protection --- plus annual costs for practice ammo and range fees.
(500 rounds of rimfire for at $12 to $20.00 dollars a box
If you choose a revolver vice an autoloader you can get two similar pistols from Smith and Wesson and stay well within your budget.
First - a .22 rimifire that will be fairly easy to shoot and uses inexpensive ammo (500-1000 rounds of .22 caliber ammo for practice each year is a lot cheaper than 500 rounds of large cailber ammo).
A - Model 63: A longer barreled version of the short barreled 'snub nose' revolvers that detectives used to carry.
Small, light, and because its a .22 it will be fairly easy to shoot.
OR
B - Model 617: a .22 caliber version of the larger frame revolver that uniformed police officers use to carry on their belts.
Even easier to shoot than the small .22
Small, light, and because its a .22 it will be fairly easy to shoot.
OR
B - Model 617: a .22 caliber version of the larger frame revolver that uniformed police officers use to carry on their belts.
Even easier to shoot than the small .22
Second: a .38 or .357 revolver.
A - Small Snub nose (barrel lengths run from 1 +7/8" to three inches) -- the slightly longer barrel sometimes results 'fits' a little more snugly into a holster.
Even if carried in a purse/pocket, a 'pocket holster' is typically used to keep the pistol oriented and to avoid you car keys getting tangled into the weapon.
The snub nose .38/357 can be tiring to practive with (which makes a .22 in the same size a good investment ---- 20 rounds with the .38/375 and then 50 rounds with the .22).
OR
b - Larger frame .38/357 -- just worlds easier to shoot, but not very easy to carry concealed.
.Even if carried in a purse/pocket, a 'pocket holster' is typically used to keep the pistol oriented and to avoid you car keys getting tangled into the weapon.
The snub nose .38/357 can be tiring to practive with (which makes a .22 in the same size a good investment ---- 20 rounds with the .38/375 and then 50 rounds with the .22).
OR
b - Larger frame .38/357 -- just worlds easier to shoot, but not very easy to carry concealed.
You probably won't get any bad advice onthis forum -- it will be up to you to choose which advice to take.
BTW: add to your budget: a gun storage case to hold the gun at home --- at least one pocket holster when carrying the weapon, you might wind up with two different ones (pocket/purse versions) --- hearing and eye protection --- plus annual costs for practice ammo and range fees.
(500 rounds of rimfire for at $12 to $20.00 dollars a box
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Here are some suggestions:
Polymer Full Size: Springfield Armory XD or XDM (I like 9mm)
Metal Full Size: SA 1911 (pick a trim level but suggest Mil Spec or better)
Revolver: S&W or Ruger in size, weight, caliber of your choice.
(I like .38spcl for lightweight ccw or 357 for full size)
Compact: Kahr (take pick)
Pocket: Ruger LCP or Walther PPK
As far as price, you can get a base model to super custom depending on what you want to spend.
Polymer Full Size: Springfield Armory XD or XDM (I like 9mm)
Metal Full Size: SA 1911 (pick a trim level but suggest Mil Spec or better)
Revolver: S&W or Ruger in size, weight, caliber of your choice.
(I like .38spcl for lightweight ccw or 357 for full size)
Compact: Kahr (take pick)
Pocket: Ruger LCP or Walther PPK
As far as price, you can get a base model to super custom depending on what you want to spend.
FreakGasolineFight
New member
For $3000 you can pretty much get anything you want. Here's what I'd do.
Ruger Mark series .22 to start on. This is a great weapon to hone your shooting skills with. You can grab one for 'round about $400. Ammo is dirt cheap.
Then, CZ P-01/Sig P239/H&K P7 for concealed carry. All three guns are ultra-reliable, good-looking, and good range guns. You can get the P-01 for about $500-$600, the Sig will be more, and the H&K will be more than the Sig. All three guns are chambered in 9mm, which means cheap ammunition and less recoil (for better follow-up shots).
After that, I'd grab a nice .357, just for kicks and because you'll still have $1800+ left. Ruger's GP100 is a good gun, and anything by S&W will work just as well.
Now, blow the remaining $1200 (or so) on a nice holster for your CC, a ton of ammunition, and any upgrades you'd like to make (a scope for the Ruger Mark? Crimson Trace Grips for the concealed carry? The possibilities are endless!)
... that's what I'd do. But, as always ... just like your nose, you pick your own gun, because it's just wrong to have someone else pick it for you.
Ruger Mark series .22 to start on. This is a great weapon to hone your shooting skills with. You can grab one for 'round about $400. Ammo is dirt cheap.
Then, CZ P-01/Sig P239/H&K P7 for concealed carry. All three guns are ultra-reliable, good-looking, and good range guns. You can get the P-01 for about $500-$600, the Sig will be more, and the H&K will be more than the Sig. All three guns are chambered in 9mm, which means cheap ammunition and less recoil (for better follow-up shots).
After that, I'd grab a nice .357, just for kicks and because you'll still have $1800+ left. Ruger's GP100 is a good gun, and anything by S&W will work just as well.
Now, blow the remaining $1200 (or so) on a nice holster for your CC, a ton of ammunition, and any upgrades you'd like to make (a scope for the Ruger Mark? Crimson Trace Grips for the concealed carry? The possibilities are endless!)
... that's what I'd do. But, as always ... just like your nose, you pick your own gun, because it's just wrong to have someone else pick it for you.
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Wilson Combat makes some of the finest 1911's around ...and while many of their models are over $3,000 ...it depends on how you spec them.
I would suggest the Protector model or the CQB model from Wilson / either of them in 5" barrels. They will have triggers that break like glass ...and in my mind / you will not ever need to upgrade or be sorry you spent the money on either one. A high quality 1911 is always a good choice ...in 9mm or
.45acp probably ...as a first gun. It is a gun that will hold its value if you take care of it. Other good 1911's mfgs - Ed Brown, Les Baer, etc - but I prefer Wilson Combat (and I have a few of them).
Now in creating a handgun collection ( for shooting ) not just looking at ....yes, a good S&W revolver is a good choice in .357 mag probably ( a model 27 N frame in 4" or 6" is a great gun ) and again nothing you will be sorry you own 30+ yrs down the road.... Stay with an older gun / like a dash 2 model ...and you will not be dissapointed either blued or Nickel finish. Then expland later into other models / other calibers .22 / .44mag etc
There are lots of other semi-autos on the market ... I think Sig makes some fine guns --- especially the 226 X-Five models. The top end X-Five will cost you around $3,000 and is a great gun in 9mm or .40S&W ( its a Single action only, has an adj trigger, all stainless, wood grips ) nice gun ...but its very heavy / its really a competition gun ...at around 55 oz with a full mag in it. In 9mm / I think it will hold its value better than in .40S&W ....but I have one in .40S&W and I like it very much as well.
I would suggest the Protector model or the CQB model from Wilson / either of them in 5" barrels. They will have triggers that break like glass ...and in my mind / you will not ever need to upgrade or be sorry you spent the money on either one. A high quality 1911 is always a good choice ...in 9mm or
.45acp probably ...as a first gun. It is a gun that will hold its value if you take care of it. Other good 1911's mfgs - Ed Brown, Les Baer, etc - but I prefer Wilson Combat (and I have a few of them).
Now in creating a handgun collection ( for shooting ) not just looking at ....yes, a good S&W revolver is a good choice in .357 mag probably ( a model 27 N frame in 4" or 6" is a great gun ) and again nothing you will be sorry you own 30+ yrs down the road.... Stay with an older gun / like a dash 2 model ...and you will not be dissapointed either blued or Nickel finish. Then expland later into other models / other calibers .22 / .44mag etc
There are lots of other semi-autos on the market ... I think Sig makes some fine guns --- especially the 226 X-Five models. The top end X-Five will cost you around $3,000 and is a great gun in 9mm or .40S&W ( its a Single action only, has an adj trigger, all stainless, wood grips ) nice gun ...but its very heavy / its really a competition gun ...at around 55 oz with a full mag in it. In 9mm / I think it will hold its value better than in .40S&W ....but I have one in .40S&W and I like it very much as well.