i have a friend that's about to make a mistake i think, but i wanted ya'll to give your idea's so he won't do what he's thinking of doing. he found a decent security six blued from the serial number it was a 1984 model with 4inch barrel. we were shooting yesterday and he noticed his ejector rod is loose and came unscrewed a little. i told him to tighten it back up or do as i did when i got my service six, take it apart clean and relube the cylinder. he has got it in his head that the gun is now no good, says a gun shouldn't come loose and one that does isn't worth keeping. i tell him mine was loose when i got it, i tightened mine after cleaning hand tight and so far it's still good. i've heard some people blue lock tight the rod but i'm afraid to do that to mine. he's gonna try and sell it but said if what i say is true, he'll have me fix it. so has anyone had a ejector rod to come loose?, was it the end of the gun? :roll: let me know soon and i'll get to fixen it for him. also i have no special tools or a gunsmith close by so is hand tighten good enough? we shoot only about 25-50rds a week. thanks for any help.
need help asap!
- Thread starter old fart
- Start date
Bill DeShivs
New member
You are correct.
357 Python
New member
You are absolutely correct. As a former security firearms instructor I have seen a number of guns where the ejector rod was loose. Most were very old Colts. There were a few S&Ws. I don't recall any officer using a Ruger Security Six. One officer had a Ruger GP100 that never had a problem. As you stated the fix is very easy. Not one of those guns were ready for the scrap heap. They all still had plenty of life in them. Show your friend this thread and maybe he will realize the serious mistake he is about to make. He just may join us here and learn from more experienced shooters. He would be welcome.
g.willikers
New member
I'll just add my 2C:
Of course ejector rods unscrew.
Anything with screw threads can unscrew.
No big deal, just screw it back tight.
Along with side plate screws and grip screws, 'etc.
They all eventually unwind.
Same with every nut and bolt in his car.
Don't tell him that, though, or he'll be really paranoid.
Of course ejector rods unscrew.
Anything with screw threads can unscrew.
No big deal, just screw it back tight.
Along with side plate screws and grip screws, 'etc.
They all eventually unwind.
Same with every nut and bolt in his car.
Don't tell him that, though, or he'll be really paranoid.
That's a bit like throwing away a car because the battery is dead. (Best analogy I could muster in a moment's notice.)
The ejector rod on my Colt Python has come loose from very early on - maybe from the day I bought it, can't remember actually. This is a Colt Python we're talking here.
I rarely give it a second thought. I just screw it back in when it gets loose - duh.
The ejector rod on my Colt Python has come loose from very early on - maybe from the day I bought it, can't remember actually. This is a Colt Python we're talking here.
I rarely give it a second thought. I just screw it back in when it gets loose - duh.
Early on, I had a couple of S&W rods back out and tie up the guns. Learned pretty quick to apply a small dab of LocTire to the rod. Problem solved.
I also apply it to the side plate screws as well. I had the screw that holds the cylinder in place fall out and watched the cylinder fall to the ground while I was trying to stab a speed loader into it during a reload.
I also apply it to the side plate screws as well. I had the screw that holds the cylinder in place fall out and watched the cylinder fall to the ground while I was trying to stab a speed loader into it during a reload.
bedbugbilly
New member
I had a brand new Ford one time many years ago - the air cleaner cover screw came loose . . . what a shame . . . I had to junk it out . . . but still pay on it for the next three years.
As already stated . . . what with threads can't come loose? I know of several S & Ws that had the same problem as well as do other brands. If your friend doesn't think the Ruger is any good now . . . offer to buy it . . . then shoot it with him and make him jealous! It's a fine wheel gun . . . I'd buy one in a heartbeat if I could find one . . . I did pass one up a while back . . . it had a loose grip screw.
As already stated . . . what with threads can't come loose? I know of several S & Ws that had the same problem as well as do other brands. If your friend doesn't think the Ruger is any good now . . . offer to buy it . . . then shoot it with him and make him jealous! It's a fine wheel gun . . . I'd buy one in a heartbeat if I could find one . . . I did pass one up a while back . . . it had a loose grip screw.
PatientWolf
New member
While growing up, my father had a S&W model 18 that did the same thing.
Not knowing it was "defective"' I shot 1000's of rounds through that pistol with an occasional tightening of the ejector rod.
There is nothing wrong with the pistol. If your friend insists on putting a small amount of locktite on the threads, I believe they also make a lower strength product than the Blue which should do the job and allow easier disassembly if needed. I think it is locktite purple, but I am not sure. Just don't use Red, which requires heat for disassembly.
Not knowing it was "defective"' I shot 1000's of rounds through that pistol with an occasional tightening of the ejector rod.
There is nothing wrong with the pistol. If your friend insists on putting a small amount of locktite on the threads, I believe they also make a lower strength product than the Blue which should do the job and allow easier disassembly if needed. I think it is locktite purple, but I am not sure. Just don't use Red, which requires heat for disassembly.
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g.willikers
New member
Have to jump in with this:
It appears there's only one screw really loose in this conversation, and it's the gun owner, not the gun.
It appears there's only one screw really loose in this conversation, and it's the gun owner, not the gun.
No not Green!
The grade below Blue is purple. Locktite green is very thin, and very strong. It's designed to "wick" in to a tightened screw and keep it tight for a very long time.
Don't use green locktite on guns, you will likely regret it. For lower strength than Blue, use purple.
The grade below Blue is purple. Locktite green is very thin, and very strong. It's designed to "wick" in to a tightened screw and keep it tight for a very long time.
Don't use green locktite on guns, you will likely regret it. For lower strength than Blue, use purple.
There is a product, made by Loctite, called "Guntite". USE IT!
It is the lowers strength Loctite that keeps screws from coming loose, but does not impede disassembly with a screwdriver.
Don't mess around with red, blue, green, whatever, get the one that says its for guns, GUNTITE. You won't be sorry.
It is the lowers strength Loctite that keeps screws from coming loose, but does not impede disassembly with a screwdriver.
Don't mess around with red, blue, green, whatever, get the one that says its for guns, GUNTITE. You won't be sorry.
Micahweeks
New member
Terrible firearm. Put me down for $110.
Lots of replies, but it seems like at least a little bit is missing from the discussion.
Yeah, it's silly to get rid of the gun.
Yeah, ejector rods do get loose sometimes.
Smith & Wesson made revolvers for DECADES one way... and then a lightbulb popped in to their heads and they elected to reverse the thread on all the ejector rods to help prevent the natural want to loosen by simple, repeat turning of the cylinder.
But here's what is missing from the discussion:
it seems a simple thing and it kind of is, but it is critical. I get so sick & tired of gun guy rhetoric, same old lines flipped out endlessly and a REALLY common one is that revolvers run ALWAYS and semi-autos give problems in comparison. But that's terrible rhetoric because not all revolvers run all the time and something SIMPLE like this takes them out of the fight. And often, it cannot be rectified with a tap, rack or other method of clearing and getting back to the shooting. (like you often can with a semi-auto)
When an ejector loosens on a revolver, the revolver quickly becomes a blunt instrument. Sometimes, you can't even get the blasted cylinder open. It ends up being a complete and total FAILURE that can't be fixed until you get the revolver home and on a work bench with good lighting. Can't turn the cylinder. Because of that, you can't cock or lower the hammer. Trigger goes nowhere. And if the cylinder is tied up (OFTEN!) then you can't even open the thing and get the ammo out of it.
That's a critical failure and easily rectified but ONLY when you know what it is and you have the time, patience and fine motor skills to find out what it is and you address it.
Your pal is OUT of his comfort zone when his ejector rod loosens.
I think he's absolutely in the right -- because if the ejector rod loosens itself at the wrong time, his revolver will NOT WORK.
Most of us here are hard-core revolver enthusiasts. We know most every detail of our guns and we live, breathe and eat these things. Not everyone out there is the same way. Your pal may not be.
Maybe he's had other revolvers where the ejector never came loose.
His reaction isn't a big surprise to me and I see no fault in it.
Yeah, it's silly to get rid of the gun.
Yeah, ejector rods do get loose sometimes.
Smith & Wesson made revolvers for DECADES one way... and then a lightbulb popped in to their heads and they elected to reverse the thread on all the ejector rods to help prevent the natural want to loosen by simple, repeat turning of the cylinder.
But here's what is missing from the discussion:
it seems a simple thing and it kind of is, but it is critical. I get so sick & tired of gun guy rhetoric, same old lines flipped out endlessly and a REALLY common one is that revolvers run ALWAYS and semi-autos give problems in comparison. But that's terrible rhetoric because not all revolvers run all the time and something SIMPLE like this takes them out of the fight. And often, it cannot be rectified with a tap, rack or other method of clearing and getting back to the shooting. (like you often can with a semi-auto)
When an ejector loosens on a revolver, the revolver quickly becomes a blunt instrument. Sometimes, you can't even get the blasted cylinder open. It ends up being a complete and total FAILURE that can't be fixed until you get the revolver home and on a work bench with good lighting. Can't turn the cylinder. Because of that, you can't cock or lower the hammer. Trigger goes nowhere. And if the cylinder is tied up (OFTEN!) then you can't even open the thing and get the ammo out of it.
That's a critical failure and easily rectified but ONLY when you know what it is and you have the time, patience and fine motor skills to find out what it is and you address it.
Your pal is OUT of his comfort zone when his ejector rod loosens.
I think he's absolutely in the right -- because if the ejector rod loosens itself at the wrong time, his revolver will NOT WORK.
Most of us here are hard-core revolver enthusiasts. We know most every detail of our guns and we live, breathe and eat these things. Not everyone out there is the same way. Your pal may not be.
Maybe he's had other revolvers where the ejector never came loose.
His reaction isn't a big surprise to me and I see no fault in it.
PatientWolf
New member
Thank you Riklin
I edited my post so no one makes THAT mistake!
I edited my post so no one makes THAT mistake!
Aguila Blanca
Staff
44 AMP said:
Green Loctite is high-strength, wicking. Used for things that will NOT be taken apart.
Red Loctite is high-strength, intended for large fasteners that will not be taken apart. Can be disassembled, but heat is required.
Blue Loctite is medium strength, intended for medium-size fasteners that are expected to be disassembled. Can be disassembled using normal tools, without heat.
Purple Loctite is low-strength, intended for very small fasteners that will be disassembled. Can be taken apart with normal tools, no heat required.
I use Blue for just about everything on firearms, but I also keep Purple on my workbench. I keep Blue and Red in the garage, for the Jeeps. For the application under discussion here I would use Blue.
The "Guntite" product is equivalent to Loctite Blue, but it's marketed by Uncle Mike's and all the research I have done on it has drawn a blank as to who actually makes it for Uncle Mike's. I'll stick with the genuine Loctite products ... they invented the stuff, and they've been doing it longer than anyone else.