Need familiarization please

J

JNad

New member
A shooting buddy and I decided to take the leap into Black Powder. We acquired a pair of 1851 replicas. I have been reading some of the posts here and info from other places, so I think I am ready to actually load and fire.

However, before I do, I obviously want to know I am starting with a problem free revolver.

I have take mine apart (just field stripped) and put it back together. My only question is this:

When cocking the hammer, the last 1/8 inch or so of travel is significantly more difficult. Is this "stacking" normal?

My modern centerfire single action revolvers don't do this (at least not this bad). So, I just want to be certain this is normal.
 
No, I haven't taken it down any further than a normal field strip.

I guess I will to properly investigate. It doesn't feel like anything is binding, but just gets MUCH tougher to pull the hammer in that last little bit of movement. I didn't know if that was normal for cap and ball, if it took a very hard strike to ignite the percussion cap, or if I have a problem.

Mine is a Navy Arms 1851 replica.
 
I like Double Deuces suggestion

Three screws take it apart. With the backstrap and grips off you can see nearly everything that is going on in the revolvers.

I have 1851s from five different manufacturers. The Uberti's (Navy Arms manufacturer I think) are the smoothest and that includes some very recent Piettas. I notice no change in the force needed to cock the revolver as the hammer reaches past half cock.

If both revolvers are acting the same, way they are prolly alright. But it won't hurt to take them apart to examine the innards. Little bit of oil is worth while or mebbe some gun grease.
 
I will take her apart and give her a good scrubbing too. I will report back once I have had a chance to do that. THanks.
 
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I would carefully check the mainspring inletting & front gripstrap, inside the grips, for a MS clearance/interference issue near full cock.



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BP revolvers are more prone to rust and grit than smokeless guns.
Dribble a generous amount of oil down the hammer, all sides, so as to lube the sear and trigger parts, and also down through the frame to the cylinder lock parts.
And the arbor (axle) for the cylinder, too.
No need to disassemble the gun much to try this.
Then run the hammer back and forth awhile.
If things improve, then it's time to disassemble and really clean things.

Or just fill a container with automatic transmission fluid and immerse the entire gun for awhile, and shake occasionally, sans the grips, of course.
I once allowed a Remington to rust up so bad, that nothing moved.
It was literally rusted solid.
Didn't clean it very good and then forgot about it for months.
After soaking it in ATF for a day or so, it all came apart very nicely.
 
Okay, I field stripped it, removed the grips, cleaned and lubed everything. No signs of binding anywhere. I put it all back together, and zero binding. It now feels like everyother revolver I own when cocking the hammer.

So, what happened? Probably some dope, me, put it together just cockeyed enough to make the cylinder drag. Anyway, now I know.

Thanks for the help all.
 
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