Need Birchwood Casey Tru Oil instructions
- Thread starter 4V50 Gary
- Start date
Directions:
1. Remove old finish if present
2. Sand to smooth wood and remove scratches, sand with the grain and wipe away all sanding dust.
3. Apply oil directly from bottle-use your fingers or a cloth. Spread evenly and with the grain. Allow to dry thoroughly-at least 2 hours
4. Buff lightly with 00 steel wool
5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 until grain is filled and desired finish is obtained.
6. Apply BIRCHWOOD CASEY Gun Stock Wax for extra beauty and protection.
1. Remove old finish if present
2. Sand to smooth wood and remove scratches, sand with the grain and wipe away all sanding dust.
3. Apply oil directly from bottle-use your fingers or a cloth. Spread evenly and with the grain. Allow to dry thoroughly-at least 2 hours
4. Buff lightly with 00 steel wool
5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 until grain is filled and desired finish is obtained.
6. Apply BIRCHWOOD CASEY Gun Stock Wax for extra beauty and protection.
Gojo works good to get the sticky Truoil off you fingers which is the best way to apply. Let it dry 24hrs before you steelwool and reapply put light coats on and plan on putting more coats than you think. 7 to 10 coats . The more work on the wood the better. Last sandpaper used should be The finest grit for wood good luck
I've long had better results with a modification of the above suggestions.
First, I learned long ago to never sand a stock, unless it was to a repaired area - because if you do, the grain will raise & cause a somewhat lumpy finsh, even if the surface is "dewhiskered".
I chemically strip a gunstock, if it's needed, using Formby's Furniture Refinisher (HomeCheapo), following the instructions on the can.
After overnite drying, I start the Tru-Oil at one end or the other of the stock, by dipping a fingertip into the oil for a dollop, then apply it to the wood in a circular & back/forth rubbing motion, at first only in a small area the size of a quarter (coin), but then expanding that same dollop of TO to an area the size of a dollar bill (max).
I rub the dollar bill sized area until the fingertip starts to drag or "squeak", then move to an adjacent area to start the same thing, etc - until the entire stock is covered by a single coat of rubbed-in TO.
I set the stock aside overnite between coats to air dry, then rubbing the TO down with a new pad off OOOO steel wool before starting the next coat of TO.
After as many coats as a particular stock needs to fill the wood pores and/or look good, the last coat of TO can be left as is for a shiney finish, or rubbed very lightly with a used OOOO steel wool pad for a satin finish.
After a week or so, I apply a coat of a good paste wax, like Johnson's.
I, for one, would like to see some pics of your project - how aboutit ?
.
First, I learned long ago to never sand a stock, unless it was to a repaired area - because if you do, the grain will raise & cause a somewhat lumpy finsh, even if the surface is "dewhiskered".
I chemically strip a gunstock, if it's needed, using Formby's Furniture Refinisher (HomeCheapo), following the instructions on the can.
After overnite drying, I start the Tru-Oil at one end or the other of the stock, by dipping a fingertip into the oil for a dollop, then apply it to the wood in a circular & back/forth rubbing motion, at first only in a small area the size of a quarter (coin), but then expanding that same dollop of TO to an area the size of a dollar bill (max).
I rub the dollar bill sized area until the fingertip starts to drag or "squeak", then move to an adjacent area to start the same thing, etc - until the entire stock is covered by a single coat of rubbed-in TO.
I set the stock aside overnite between coats to air dry, then rubbing the TO down with a new pad off OOOO steel wool before starting the next coat of TO.
After as many coats as a particular stock needs to fill the wood pores and/or look good, the last coat of TO can be left as is for a shiney finish, or rubbed very lightly with a used OOOO steel wool pad for a satin finish.
After a week or so, I apply a coat of a good paste wax, like Johnson's.
I, for one, would like to see some pics of your project - how aboutit ?
.
Zhillsauditor
New member
Everyone has a variation on applying tru oil. A google search will bring up a mess of them, as tru oil is used for refinishing more than gun stocks (especially used with instruments). Variations include:
* using sandpaper and truoil during the first few coats to seal the grain
* using a coating of armor all at the start, which facilitates faster drying (see a long thread on rimfirecentral for the origin and use of this)
* using prgessively finer grits of wet sandpaper as coats go on
* using sandpaper and truoil during the first few coats to seal the grain
* using a coating of armor all at the start, which facilitates faster drying (see a long thread on rimfirecentral for the origin and use of this)
* using prgessively finer grits of wet sandpaper as coats go on
Tru-oil is basically linseed oil. . The "drying " process is both oxidation and polymerization.The process actually continues fo a long time.
If you're starting on bare wood it's sometimes a good idea to thin the Tru-oil for the first coat. Further coats should be THIN . Drying at least 24 hours between coats.The best job is a long one !
If you're starting on bare wood it's sometimes a good idea to thin the Tru-oil for the first coat. Further coats should be THIN . Drying at least 24 hours between coats.The best job is a long one !
I use surgical gloves for the tru-oil...just easier clean up...
That, or your fingers as mentioned. Cloth of any sort (which the directions mention) is asking for trouble- lint in the finish.
Take you TIME with the prep. When you think the stock is ready to finish (I sometimes finish the new ones, but most are sold unfinished)- get it by a window or outside- with some bright, side-lighting. This will make visible any very minor imperfections in the wood that will show up big-time when that high-gloss finish is applied. Without inspecting first in the proper light, you're going to miss some defects (if you care), and you can't "fix" them after the fact.
Learned all about lighting, and gloss finishes, as a drywall contractor...it's critical.
Avoid the temptation to apply it thick, like a "coating"- it's not. VERY thin coats- and again- rub them in under the same lighting conditions. Do one section at a time, and keep a "wet edge"- just like you would when painting.
Don't go back to previously done sections- the stuff sets up, meaning stops flowing out- pretty quickly. You'll screw it up if you try to go back over an area more than a few minutes after you've applied the oil.
All in all, I'm not a fan of the stuff. I'm getting ready to finally make my own benchrest stock, and I'm going to use West System epoxy, with a flattening agent to kill the gloss. I've used the stuff extensively on boats, and it's incredible for quick build, and more importantly- durability, and it's absolutely impervious to moisture. The only downside is lack of UV resistance if the stock is going to spend any amount of time outdoors, which is remedied by an overcoat of poly, or varnish to shield it from UV rays.
That, or your fingers as mentioned. Cloth of any sort (which the directions mention) is asking for trouble- lint in the finish.
Take you TIME with the prep. When you think the stock is ready to finish (I sometimes finish the new ones, but most are sold unfinished)- get it by a window or outside- with some bright, side-lighting. This will make visible any very minor imperfections in the wood that will show up big-time when that high-gloss finish is applied. Without inspecting first in the proper light, you're going to miss some defects (if you care), and you can't "fix" them after the fact.
Learned all about lighting, and gloss finishes, as a drywall contractor...it's critical.
Avoid the temptation to apply it thick, like a "coating"- it's not. VERY thin coats- and again- rub them in under the same lighting conditions. Do one section at a time, and keep a "wet edge"- just like you would when painting.
Don't go back to previously done sections- the stuff sets up, meaning stops flowing out- pretty quickly. You'll screw it up if you try to go back over an area more than a few minutes after you've applied the oil.
All in all, I'm not a fan of the stuff. I'm getting ready to finally make my own benchrest stock, and I'm going to use West System epoxy, with a flattening agent to kill the gloss. I've used the stuff extensively on boats, and it's incredible for quick build, and more importantly- durability, and it's absolutely impervious to moisture. The only downside is lack of UV resistance if the stock is going to spend any amount of time outdoors, which is remedied by an overcoat of poly, or varnish to shield it from UV rays.
Videos
Gary,
Try these on for size. In the past, I have refered the Boyd video to folks. Good luck and be sure to post some pics on your finished product. ...
Be Safe !!!
http://video.search.yahoo.com/search/video?p=tru-oil+video
Gary,
Try these on for size. In the past, I have refered the Boyd video to folks. Good luck and be sure to post some pics on your finished product. ...
Be Safe !!!
http://video.search.yahoo.com/search/video?p=tru-oil+video
Hunter Customs
New member
I apply thin coats of TO rubbed in by hand, let it air dry for 6 hours then use 0000 steel wool between coats.
I also use a Tack rag after using the steel wool to pick up the loose steel wool fibers.
Best Regards
Bob Hunter
www.huntercustoms.com
I also use a Tack rag after using the steel wool to pick up the loose steel wool fibers.
Best Regards
Bob Hunter
www.huntercustoms.com
Dixie Gunsmithing
Moderator Emeritus
I agree with Bob Hunter, above.
I sand them down, watching out for the checkering, until I get to where I'm using 600 grit screen, so it doesn't load up. At this, the wood looks as if it has finish already on it, it is so smooth. That is the trick to good auto body painting too, a smooth surface before the finish. Even at this, the grain will try to raise some, but any roughness can be brought out with the 0000 steel wool after the first coat, or the 600 grit screen, then use a tack cloth between coats.
Some wood takes more finish than others, as it seems its due to the woods porosity. Some may only take 3 to 4 coats, where others may take 6 or 7.
After the final finish has cured, use a good paste wax, and polish it.
To keep it off my hands, I use nitrile medical gloves, which put on just as smooth of a coat as one could with a bare hand.
I sand them down, watching out for the checkering, until I get to where I'm using 600 grit screen, so it doesn't load up. At this, the wood looks as if it has finish already on it, it is so smooth. That is the trick to good auto body painting too, a smooth surface before the finish. Even at this, the grain will try to raise some, but any roughness can be brought out with the 0000 steel wool after the first coat, or the 600 grit screen, then use a tack cloth between coats.
Some wood takes more finish than others, as it seems its due to the woods porosity. Some may only take 3 to 4 coats, where others may take 6 or 7.
After the final finish has cured, use a good paste wax, and polish it.
To keep it off my hands, I use nitrile medical gloves, which put on just as smooth of a coat as one could with a bare hand.