Need advice on maintenance

cwalker3

New member
I'm pretty new to shooting and guns in general and I was wondering if I am maintaining my guns correctly. I currently have a S & W 357 and a Marlin lever-action 357.
After shooting, I swab the barrels and cylinder with Hoppes #9. I brush the barrels and then swab with patches until clean. This seems to take forever. I go through at least 30 patches per gun. After I get a few clean patches, I coat all surfaces with a thin coat of Hoppes oil.
First, am I cleaning correctly? Second, is there something better than Hoppes? Third, will the #9 harm the finish on the stock of the Marlin or the rubber grips on the S & W
Thanks in advance for any help you guys can give. By the way, this is the best firearms discussion site I have come across. Good info, no bull****, and few flames.
 
Sounds to me like you are doing one heck of a job! As a rule, you should not let any solvent stay on your stock or grips for any length of time. You should also dry the bore of solvent before oiling. Keep up the good work and enjoy yourself and your firearms.
Good Luck & Good Shooting
Hank
 
Couldn't have said it better Hank. I do use Gun Scrubber down the barrel first and for those really tight places. One other thing I do, I keep silicon gun cloths handy, Whenever guns are handled they get wiped down before going back in the safe.


Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year :)

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Help Stamp Out Gun Ignorance.



[This message has been edited by loknload (edited December 26, 1999).]
 
"Shooter's Choice" is a good solvent...seems to (for me) work a bit better in my 10/22 on de-leading. But, I adore the smell of Hoppes'...for a long time when I was small I really thought Hoppes' was my Dad's aftershave...true.
I use both. Also, always make sure you run a patch thru before you fire it the next time.

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"Quis custodiet ipsos custodes" RKBA!
 
cwalker3...remember, cleaning supplies are cheap, guns aren't. Don't be afraid of using too many patches and cleaning too thoroughly, you won't wear out the gun!

DC...I hope you realize that some of the guys on TFL will now start using Hoppes #9 as an aftershave :)
 
cwalker when you have 150 guns to clean,
as I do, you will learn how to do it fast ,easy & cheaply. Here it is from the Expert
of Clean.

First, I dont & never have used patches;
instead use bore mops, they are cheap, they
clean 360 degrees of the bore & dont miss spots. They are white out of the box & black out of the bore; so swish em around in a small jar of gasoline and blot em on paper towells to get off some of the wet gasoline.
Stick one in your left hand and pour a 1 inch
bead of ultra (ivory,dawn,palmolive)dishwashing liquid on the mop.Under hot water (130 to 160)wash
your hands, rolling the mop between them.
Dry & reuse your now white mop.
I NEVER use Hoppes, unelse some one gives
me a bottle. Good stuff but a waste of money.
1 gallon of regular unleaded gasoline = 5 cases of hoppes & works = to or better. $1.41/gal vs 4.00/ 2onces.
If you use gasoline: open a window for ventalation or work outside where no one can see you. (Conn. turn in your neighbor LAW)
I use a 2 liter Coke bottle to store clean gasoline and to pour the dirty gasoline into;
(which comes out full of oil,powder particles and lead)[WASH HANDS--LEAD POISONING HAZARD]
You get lead no matter what cleaning solvent you use!
Dispose of dirty gasoline properly, go to a
recycle place.WARNING---NEVER THROW DIRTY GASOLINE IN COKE BOTTLES IN THE GARBAGE OR DUMPSTER. THE BOTTLE ALWAYS BREAKS INSIDE THE
GARBAGE TRUCK because of THE trash compacting CLAW and blows up the garbage truck ,killing garbagemen. I read about this in the paper,
happened on the other side of the state!
If you dont like using gasoline--use
MINERAL SPIRIT PANT THINNER $2.89/gal
or unscented mineral paint thinner @4.00/gal
ALWAYS KEEP GASOLINE OR PAINT THINNER AWAY FROM GRIPS AND WOOD FINISH.
Also, keep gas or paint thinner away from
Mossburg painted on matte barrell paint.
Will not hurt bluing or stainless or Glock finish or Glock type polymeres. Keep gas away
from cheap plastic type grips seen on some saterday night specials. If you paid less that 175.00 for the gun ,suspect the plastic grips of being meltable by gasoline.

To clean a leaded bore; use a Hoppes
STAINLESS STEEL TORNADO BRUSH. The brush
has NO BRISSLES but rather a stainless winding that resembles a Tornado. The flex action of the winding thourly cleans out the most very stub-e-ren leading easily. I've
had the grooves filled to the top of the lands & cleaned it out nicely, on some one
else's gun that used to use patches.

In the above case in point, the Tornado
brush would not enter the bore. too much
leading to insert brush; so I dipped the brush in dextron automatic transmission fluid
WARNING--WEAR YOUR PAINTING CLOTHES FOR THIS!
Red oil spots go all over when you remove brush from bore. See film clip at 11 entitled
"How I ruined My Dress Shirt!"

The tranny fluid is highly detergent &
provides necessary lubrication to insert the
brush in the leadfulled bore. The brush went in inches at a time, with tranny dips at each
abriged stroke.This was an extreeme case of
patchitis, coupled with lack of owning a bore brush.

Incedently, the bristles of a phsphor/
bronze brush will break off the brush, without cleaning out the lead.

A Tornado brush is required for lead:
unelse--- you take an old p/b brush or an
undersized one & wrap it with Choir Boy Copper or Stainless Pot Scrubing Pad in which
case this works like a Tornado brush.

When I clean a gun in normal condition--
= little leading> I just use Tornado by dipping in gasoline or paint thinner for each
stroke and run 8 or 10 strokes.

Then I run some ripped up kleanex facial
tissue thru the bore to soak up dirty gasoline. NEXT, I dip bronze brush in gasoline & run 6 or 8 strokes. Then more kleanex facial tissue to absorb gasoline.

When you use kleanex , take the brush off the rod, first; before pushing the kleanex. Never use kleanex on a ported,
recoil compensated or muzzle breaked barrel
because the Kleanex cloggs up the ports & is
a bother to remove. The same goes for gas opperated semi auto rifles(SKS,AK clones ,Garand,M14,Mini 14 & 30,fn/fal/liai & 30 m1 carbine & pistols(Desert Eagle) for the same reason, clogged gas ports.On these guns ,use your bore mops.

After the ph/b brush with gas with gas cleaned out, it is time for the barrell lub.
Use either bore mop or( kleanex if no gas ports on gun )4 strokes with oil & then :
CLEAN OUT ALL EXTRA OIL LEAVING ONLY A MICRO THIN COAT! REMEMBER ONE DROP OF OIL LEFT IN
THE BORE IS ENOUGH TO BULGE AND RUIN YOUR BARRELL.

I always take a clean bore mop and run 4 strokes before shooting to insure no drops
of oil in bore. I always use a bore light
to inspect & insure no fuzz from thebore mop is left in the bore.

If you have a salt & pepper bore, use a bore mop with Trutle wax crome cleaner or dupont #7 chrome cleaner, after first cleaning as above. This will remove all the pepper but the salt remains, because there is no way of replacing the corroded away metal.
Sure does look pretty though, when you are done! Make sure to run a bore mop with both gasoline and then windex or fantastic
or any other water based cleaner, as well as a bore mop with just water and then a dry bore mop.Next is an oil mop ,a kleanex pad
to absorb oil and the final dry bore mop.
The idea is to remove all traces of crome polish before firing.

WHAT WORKS BETTER THAN HOPPIES or most anything else?

EEZOX--- in the aresol spray can.Eezox goes
on wet but dries in 24 hrs to a 4,500 psi
lubricating film (3.5 times better than mil specs)& the dry lub film will not attract burnt powder particles[carbon abrasives that
wear out & ruin your gun needlessly].
BECAUSE EEZOX dries, I recommend the aresol can as being air tight. I spray a bit
through the red pointer tube, into a pop top
and apply it with a artists brush with real brissel & wood handle. The cheap plastic & nylon brush will melt with eezox.Anything gasoline melts,eezox melts.Eezox is also a MOST EXCELLENT bore cleaner and will even
remove touch up bluing which is not properly bonded to the metal. I have never seen eezox affect factory bluing, but it does a job on
improper touch ups or paint.

For this reason, I always use eezox as
my internal lubricant where ever I want to stop 90% of wear from occuring but I use silicone spray for the outside of the gun.

HOW GOOD OF A BORE CLEANER IS EEZOX?
If you clean you bore as recommemded above
(not using chrome cleaner which is for salt & pepper bores only)you would think that your bore is spotless BUT......
That a clean bore mop & wet the first 1/2
inch of the mop with a LITTLE ezzox; not
dripping, but wet. Run 8 strokes and see
how black your mop gets! Now ,take another clean bore mop & buff off the excess oil to
leave a 1 micron thin layer of eezox.

Eezox opperates from +450 to -90 farenhieght. No more gun oil freeze ups for
you Alaskan types!

How well does eezox protect for long term storage? Well---hehehe! 8 years ago- a rifle
was coated with eezox and let dry for 24 hours then a second coat. The rifle is still
on a picnic table in Maine, out in the open,in the sun & rain & snow
and we are still waiting for the first signs
of rust or corrosion to occur! We are ,however, considering replacing the picnic table under the gun, because it is starting to rott!

FINALLY--SPRAY YOUR ACTION PARTS WITH EEZOX AND FEEL YOUR TRIGGER PULL LIGHTEN
UP BY 35%
A little eezox goes a long ways. 15 drops will do an entire gun. (about 1/5 of a pop bottle top.) Major eezox loss occurs by evaporation very qiuckly; therefore, dont
spray more than you can apply in 90 seconds.

------------------
Every year,over 2 million Americans use firearms
to preserve life,limb & family.Gun Control Democrats
would prefer that they all die,instead.
ernest2, Conn. CAN opp. "Do What You Can"!
http://thematrix.acmecity.com/digital/237/cansite/can.html
 
cwalker3:

Can't say much about the rifle, never had much contact with lever actions. As for the revolver, I use Hoppes Benchrest, somewhat more expensive than their #9, buy it by the pint or quart.

For cleaning barrel, I run a wet patch through it, several times. Then a wet bronze brush. Let is sit overnight. Dry patches next day, only need a couple.

Dismount the cylinder-crane. There is a small screw on the right hand side of the frame. Back this out, and the crane will slide off the frame. Cylinder slides off the crane. DO NOT LOOSE THE SMALL SCREW, AS THEY ARE FITTED FOR LENGTH. Use a .375 caliber rifle brush to scrub the chambers. Wet parch, then wet brush. Let sit overnight. Wipe the crane with a solvent dampened patch or rag, and wipe the ejector rod, the part that is inside the cylinder. Dry everything, and lightly lube, I use a product called Kellube, it's a synthetic oil. A little goes a long way.
If you oiled the bore and chambers, dry them before shooting, never fire in a wet chamber.
This EEZOX that ernest2 mentioned sounds interesting, but I know nothing about it.

Good shooting.
 
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