Need a 6, 7 or 8 round capacity .357 for a serious concealment PDW revolver?

R

Red Bull

New member
I am looking to try a 4-5 inch barreled .357 Mag revolver for personal defense. I want the most firepower, but I want it reasonably concealable.
I am trying to figure out if I should go with a 6, 7, or 8 round revolver?

To my knowledge, the only 7 round revolver would be a pre-agreement 686 Plus (?).
Are there any other revolvers that hold 7 or 8 rounds?
Are they concealable?
 
Is the 7 shot cylindar not too thick to conceal?

Are holsters not too hard to find? I assue that a normal 686 holster would not fit.

How about speed loaders, and holders etc, are they easy to find?

How much should I expect to spend on a *&* 686 plus anyway?

Also, I plan on practicing a LOT with this gun, probably with soft .357 loads. How long can I expect it to last?

Thanks!



[This message has been edited by Red Bull (edited September 28, 2000).]
 
Ok I know you said revolver but think about this. The .357 sig is almost identical to the .357 mag. Velocity and muzzel energy are close anf you are geting it from a smaller case with normally higher capacity. Ammo is getting easier to find with emington, Federal, and Speer all making thier main bullet types in .357 sig. Look into a Sig 239. you get 7+1 capacity in a small pakage. You are not going to get a Revolver in anything close to that size with that capacity/barrel length.
 
Oh, I am a big .357 Sig fan, but I think it is time I learn to handle a revolver.
It seems that with training, a revolver can be a serious combat tool, and it is high time I mastered it.
I have never been a revolver fan because they are slow to reload, have long heavy trigger pulls etc, but I have seen that a serious practicioner can make a revolver almost as fast or faster than a semi auto. If I could master the revolver, I could see really becoming a fan. I have a couple snubbies, but I am ready to get a serious combat revolver, and I am going to practice like crazy with it on reloading etc until I master it.

Not only that, but I don't have to worry about magazines, magazine springs, and magazine bans on my revolver ;)

Money is not the object, I will even dish out the bucks for an 8 shot revolver if I can find them, and they are are good gun to go with. I don't even know what brands are offered or what are teh best etc. I don't feel the need to spend a lot of money, but I do want to do it "right" the first time. This revolver is going to get a lot of use, especially in drills (reloading etc), and it is going to become my best friend for a while.
 
Taurus makes a 7 and 8 shot revolver. (Models 607 and 608). They come with factory ported barrels too. Speed loaders are availiable from HKS and Safariland for both Taurus and "&" revolvers. I can't advise on the holster selection for the larger capacity revolvers. Good luck.

------------------
"We sleep safely in our beds because rough men stand ready in the night to visit violence upon those who would do us harm."...George Orwell
 
If you think you may conceal it I'd go with a six shot medium frame. K frame Smiths and Ruger Security and Speed sixes are not huge guns, yet still thicker than you are used to as an auto shooter.
 
Flaim,

The .357 Sig is actually only "almost identical" to a VERY NARROW spectrum of .357 Mag. loads, specifically the 125-gr. JHP loadings that have always had such a good reputation.

While the .357 Sig is a good cartridge, it can't:

Handle the wide range of bullet weights or styles that the revolver can.

Handle the wide range of power factors that the revolver can.

I've been tempted to get a .357 Sig on a couple of occasions, but so far haven't bitten.

------------------
Beware the man with the S&W .357 Mag.
Chances are he knows how to use it.
 
I have a 4" S&W Mod 66 that was my platform for learning to shoot a revolver. It is an excellent handgun. The stated downside is that the K frame dimensions will not accommodate a full-circle forcing cone. The 686 solves this problem and is said to tolerate a steady diet of full-house magnum loads. The 686 is only slightly less concealable than the 66.
Interestingly enough, if you compare the 66 side by side with say a Colt Commander or similarly sized pistol you will see that the pistol is easier to conceal because it is much thinner.

------------------
You have to be there when it's all over. Otherwise you can't say "I told you so."

Better days to be,

Ed
 
how bout a SW 627 PC snubbie ?
http://www.lewhorton.com

might be a few pre sellout's available

nice looking piece IMO

S%26W627258.jpg




[This message has been edited by RustyRP (edited September 28, 2000).]
 
Best concealed carry 4" .357 is, without question, a stainless 6-shot Ruger Security Six.

Thank you Ruger. Wish you still made them. (I carry my GP100's, but they're not quite as slick for concealed carry.)

------------------
"All my ammo is factory ammo"
 
I agree with Mike Irwin re the .357mag vs the .357 Sig.

If you are comfortable with a 4" bbl, I would go with an older short lug model 19. Light, compact, sweet action and made of real steel.

One of my carry guns is a 2.5" 686. It is great but large amounts of extremely rapid fire will cause the hand pivot pin to bend and retard the timing a tad. My 696 suffers from the same affliction. No biggie, I just tune em occasionaly.

Sam...my favorite 9mm is the 9X32R
 
WESHOOT2, Could you please elaborate on why the Ruger Security Six is the best 4 inch revolver for CCW?

I don't know anything about it, and don't ahve any pictures, and if it is no longer made, I don't know where to get a picture.

I value your opinion, and I would love to not buy a *&*. (What Ruger did to the magazine ban does not make me happy, but what *&* did is 20 times worse, though I would likely be buying either one used anyway).

I know very little about revolvers, and I have no idea the differences between these models, or what makes a good one. I don't even know who makes the "Model 19" that CRSam suggested. Please tell me more about the features and why you pick the one you do.

Thanks!

Like I said, I am going to be shooting the heck out of this gun (with .357 loads on the soft side, but more powerful than .38), and practicing reloading etc with it.
If it is not reasonably easy to carry, I won't carry it, but shootability is important as well as carryability.
I want no shorter than a 4 inch barrel because the .357 Mag just loses too much velocity out of short barrels, and gains too much muzzle flip, and I find the thickness to be more of a problem than length, so I see no reason to go with a snubby.



Ps- Are 6 shooters easier to speed reload than 7 shooters? Easier to line up the speed loader since there are only 6 holes (an even amount) or anything like that?



[This message has been edited by Red Bull (edited September 28, 2000).]
 
Other things being equal, the chamber walls of a 7 round revolver would be thinner than its 6 round counterpart. Would this be a concern?
 
Red Bull:

I have a 4" S&W model 66. It's a whole lot of gun to conceal. The cylinder is quite wide. I find it a lot easier to conceal a full-size M1911, simply because it is flatter. But to each his own...

Personally, I prefer the S&W model 66 over the 686. The 66 (or the blued model 19, same gun) balances better for me. I prefer the S&W trigger over the Ruger. And there are plenty of used 66s and 19s out there if you don't want to buy a new S&W.

The Ruger is certainly a strong gun, though.

M1911
 
Red Bull,


The Security Six is "K-frame" sized, for smaller size, lighter weight, and easier concealment, but has a one-piece frame, which gives it incredible durability (unlike the S&W K).
All parts are big and robust, adding to its reliability (defense gun, right?). Sights are visible and tough, with many high-quality aftermarket options. Grip shape allows many aftermarket grip options, too.

Most examples (owned several once, sold--bad decisions) are extremely accurate, and the stainless versions 'slick up' nicely with dry-firing.

They are definitely a 'buy'.

------------------
"All my ammo is factory ammo"
 
See the thread in this forum on coming back to revolvers.

Someone on one of these forums once said he thought the 4" or 6" (can't remember) 627 PC was an ideal carry gun. The longer barrel keeps it balanced and pointing where it should. May have been one big gentleman...

S&W 686+ and Taurus 66 or 617 come in 7-shot. S&W 627 variations and Taurus 608 come in 8-shot. The Taurus guns are ported. The 7-shot versions are similar in size to the K frame with a beefed up cylinder, top strap, etc. from what I understand. Mike Irwin is the expert there.

As mentioned before, the cylinder stop notches on the 7-shot fall between the chambers rather than on top as with a 6-shot, providing some extra beef. The N frame 8-shot has enough beef for .44 magnums and has not been known to be a problem. Of course most 8-shot revolvers are probably used in competition where .38 spl with 142-158 gr bullet at about 850 fps is the norm. I have put PMC 125 gr magnums and some Federal Hydra-Shok rounds through the 627 with no problems other than the usual beautiful display of flash and noise.

HKS and SL Variant (NOT Safariland) speedloaders are available for the 7-shot. HKS tend to not want to let go of rounds when loading and the SL Variants are $30 each. The people at speedloaders.com have a novel speedloader for the 7-shot and the only speedloader I know of for the 8-shot.

My personal preference is to use moonclips rather than speedloaders--they are very small and cheap. Moonclip equiped guns also allow rounds to be loaded as normal, either individually or speedloader.

The S&W 627s come with moonclips and Bob Miles or one other gentleman on these boards will machine the cylinders on 686s and the Taurus guns for moonclips for something like $85. After experience with moonclips on my 627, I had the 686+ machined and am extremely happy with the results.

By the way, the MaxFire speedloaders from speedloaders.com are $20 for 6, which is very competitive with moonclips for .357 magnum/.38 spl.

(I am not going to climb on any of the manufacturers as I believe I will prefer to take responsibility for the government so these people can pay attention to business of providing me fine firearms. However, to keep everything in balance, note that Ruger's requirements on distribution are also very close to the HUD agreement in concept.)

[This message has been edited by Guy B. Meredith (edited September 29, 2000).]
 
So am I to understand that the 7 shot models have the same cylinder size as the 6 shot guns, and that they both will fit the same holsters?

If this is true, I did not know this, and it is an important consideration because it means they both will conceal the same and both be easy to find holsters for (I am considering the 686+).

Looking in the catalogues at the *&* 66 (K frame) and the *&* 686 and 686+ (L frame), there is only a weight difference of 1.5-3 ounces.

So my question is, with the weight difference so minimal, exactly what is the difference beteen a K frame and an L frame? Is it just the full length barrel lug?




[This message has been edited by Red Bull (edited September 30, 2000).]
 
I have no experience with 7 or 8-shot revolvers, but I have shot smith k-frames extensively and l-frames to a lesser degree. The 686 6-shot has a larger cylinder than a model 66, so a 686 plus must also have a larger cylinder. For concealed carry you might also look at the S&W model 65. Stainless steel, fixed sights, K-frame (smaller cylinder), and much better trigger than any Ruger. If you are going to practice as much as you say, I don't think you need the extra 1 or 2 rounds. 6 rounds of .357 mag is plenty. Speedloaders for 6 shooters are also much more common. You can get 3 different styles of Safariland loaders for under $15 almost anywhere. BTW, you'll be surprised at how fast you can reload a revolver with some practice.

Guy B. Meredith: How do you load rounds individually in a cylinder that's been machined for moonclips? My understanding was that when the cylinder has been milled, if you load rounds without the clips, the firing pin will not reach the primer.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top