Can you set up a Standard Full Length Resizing die to Neck size and if So how would you go about it?
Yes.
One way to do it is to set the die up for FL sizing (per mfg instructions) and then back the die out the distance of the case shoulder height. Then test and possibly adjust a bit more, or less, depending on your results.
Neck (only) sizing was touted for years as the best way to make the most accurate ammo. The reasoning was sizing only the neck to hold a new bullet and leaving the rest of the case as "fireformed" to the chamber gave the best results for accuracy. using brass "custom fitted" to your chamber instead of being fully resized to an industry standard. Also, not working any more of the case than absolutely needed meant (usually) brass lasted longer. SO more accurate and longer case life, what's not to love?
Along with this always came the warning that it was usually NOT suitable for ammunition intended to be used in more than one gun. Hmmmm...
They were right, some of the time, and not right some of the time. Everything has a range of tolerances, and in some guns, things worked just like they said they would, In others, not so much....
A LOT depends on what cartridge you are shooting and what specific gun you are shooting it in. A LOT, more than anything else, really.
I load for rounds ranging from .22 Hornet to .458 Win mag in rifles and I FL size everything, except .303 British.
And the reason I neck size for that one is the rifle I have. it has one of the "generous" chambers and since the round headspaces on the rim, resizing the case body back down to min specs (FL sizing) simply works the brass so much it wears out way too soon. (like 2 loading cycles or less, instead of 6 or sometimes more)
This is one example of where the rifle used matters more than other factors. My .303 is a 1917 in original condition, with the wear its picked up over the past century plus. Its not going to be a match grade rifle, ever. And it never was.
ALL of the various tips and tricks used by reloaders only work in rifles that capable of using them.
Neck sizing might be just the ticket in rifle A and do nothing noticeable in rifle B.
Tiny, precise measurements and adherence to specific dimensions might make a match winning improvement in a target rifle. Doing the same thing in a deer rifle might make no difference at all. Or it might make some noticeable difference, only testing can tell you for certain.
What I'm trying to say is that loading to "X" off the lands or bumping the shoulder back to "Y" could be worth the effort in some situations and not in others. If, for example, doing the extra work and precision crafting the ammo turns your 2MOA deer gun into a 1 or sub MOA rifle, I'd say its worth it. But if it does nothing, or only turns that 2MOA gun into a 1.9MOA gun, I don't think its worth the work.
Everyone's guns are very slightly different. Some are very different from others. General advice is good for general advice. Only testing with what you actually have will tell you what it does, and doesn't do.