My Yugu and Swede Mauser from Ellison's

[El Rojo]

For those of you who kept up with me when I was buying my M96 Swede and my Yugo 8mm, I got them and they are extremely nice. Curt said the Swede would not be in new condition, but it was a nice gun nonetheless. I think it is great! A beautiful gun and it shoots great! I installed a Bold adjustible trigger on it and oh is it nice! Midway has the triggers on sale right now. I highly recommend them. I have that trigger about as good as my Rem 700! It is nice.

I have not been able to shoot the Yugo yet as I still need to order some ammo. I have been hesitant with the corrosive stuff, but that seems to be nearly all that is available. I think I will get 1400 rounds of the Turkish stuff and just wash out the barrel each time. The gun is in brand new shape and came with a bunch of goodies.

If you want great C&R military rifles at a great price, check out http://www.ellisonsmilitaryrifles.com/ . You won't be sorry ordering from this guy. I highly recommend him if you want a quality gun. Don't risk paying for guns by companies that don't back up the quality of their guns. Go with Ellison's and I wager you won't be sorry. I wasn't.

 

[Bruegger]

Congrats!

Congratulations on the purchases.

Which Yugo did you get? M48, M48A or M24/47?

Is the Bold trigger drop-in? I've been thinking about ordering one myself. Have you taken a look at the Mojo aperture sights? IMO, the only thing wrong with Mausers is the sights.

Don't worry about the corrosive ammo so long as you have access to soap and water to clean teh rifle and you're willing to clean it within a few hours of shooting.

Semper fi.

Bruegger out.

 

[El Rojo]

Yugo 48.

I am not sure whether it was a Yugo 48 or 48A. What is the difference?

The bold trigger was not exactly drop in. I had to do some wood work to get it in. However, this was my first time ever of doing wood work on a gun and let me say it was easy. I basically took a drill, drilled out the trigger slot inside the stock to where I wanted to cut it back so the Bold trigger would fit in. I did this with no instruction and basic common sense. I then filed the wood back until it fit. All of this work was inside the wood and when the gun is together, you would not know the difference. I was hesitant at first, but when it was all said and done, it only took an hour or two and man that trigger is sweet! Get one of those bold triggers out of Midway while they are still on sale. You won't be sorry.

I will get a Mojo sight next payday. I shot a decent 2-3" group with the factory sights and hope to decrease that signifigantly with the mojo sight. Those Swede's are shooters! I highly recommend them to everyone.

 

[Bruegger]

The 48A would say "48A" as opposed to just "48." Seriously, though, it was a later model than the 48 and was intended to be cheaper to produce. I think the main difference is the 48A has a stamped as opposed to milled floorplate and perhaps another stamped part or two.

The M24/47 is another breed of cat entirely. They were apparently Yugo versions of the VZ 24 (I've also heard they *were* Czech or that they were FN-manufactured) that were refinished by the commies after the war. Not exactly sure about mine - it has the Yugo-style front sights, a teak stock and Yugo-style sling swivels. But of course it could have been rebarreled (it was) and given a new stock (definitely was). If it was renumbered, they did a *fantastic* job of wiping the old crest and S/Ns.

I guess I could measure the length of the action on mine and see if it's shorter than the action on the VZ24. The Yugos have an intermediate-length action.

I'll probably order one of those Bold triggers me-self. If it requires much alteration of the wood, I'll probably install it on my VZ rather than my Yugo beauty.

Man I love Mausers! I just saw a 1893 model Spanish Mauser (7mm) that looked really sweet. I have to forcibly restrain myself from buying one every time I'm in a gun shop.

Semper fi,
Bruegger out.

 

[El Rojo]

All of the required wood work is in the stock where once you reassemble it, you can't even tell. It is all an internal adjustment. It was easy and it makes a huge difference. Once I was done with mine, you couldn't even tell I enlarged the trigger slot if you hadn't been working around mausers for a long time. Good luck.

 

[Rome]

Regarding "corrosive" ammo cleaning

Dear El Rojo

The rifles sound really nice. I'd like to share a really easy cleaning process with you that I discovered at another site written by Dennis Kroh. I've used it for my 8mm stuff and it works, it's easy, and no trouble at all. Maybe you'll agree. He's published this on his company's website an I hope he doesn't mind me sharing it with you here.

Rome


This is how I do it... it's easy, it's fast, and it's effective. Best of all you can do it while still on the firing-line and thus not offend your significant other with the usually pungent stench of commercial cleaners in your home.
Dilute regular household ammonia (sudsy is best but regular is OK too) to 2/1 or 3/1 with water (it can be as much as 10/1 if the smell really gets to you). Keep in a small bottle to take with you to the range but label it well so you don't mistake it for contact-lens solution or something (yeeeowww!)
After you are done firing and while still at the range moisten (not dripping-wet, but sorta-soaked) a patch and run it down the bore and back once. This instantly will neutralize and dissolve the corrosive salt-compounds from the primers and start in on the copper and powder fouling with a vengeance.
Let stand for thirty seconds or so (just enough time to take off and throw away the ammonia-patch you just used and put a new, dry patch on your rod). Run the dry patch (or several) down the bore and you are most literally done.
DON'T OVERDO IT! More ISN'T better in this case...
You really don't want to slop ammonia (especially if heavily concentrated) all over the blued parts of the gun (as it will likely start to remove bluing after 30 minutes or so) and you also shouldn't leave the ammonia in the bore for an extended period of time (like hours, although I do know folks who do that anyway) as that may (not WILL, but MAY) cause "crazing" (microscopic pitting) of the metal. I also have to caution against slopping ammonia on the wooden parts of your rifle, as it will usually strip the finish down to bare-wood, BUT if you follow my advise on HOW MUCH ammonia to use (only enough to dampen, but not soak, a single patch per gun) you will not EVER experience ANY problems at all...
If you are worried about primer residue getting on the bolt-face you may want to quickly wipe it with the wet patch before throwing the thing away and quickly dry it. Same thing with the gas-tube in a semi-automatic rifle... don't go overboard, just wet it and dry it and get done with it.
As a final precaution (since the ammonia will also kill all lubricants and leave the metal very dry) you can run a patch of gun-oil down the bore and leave it like that for protection from the elements (just be sure to run a dry patch down the bore before shooting it again).
I've been cleaning guns this way (including *every* gun we sell) for nearly thirty years, and have never had rust form in any bore (even here in humid Florida).
However, if you are (like some folks I have met) completely obsessed about leaving traces of ANY powder or copper residue in the bore of your weapon, you can certainly follow up your "field-cleaning" with a detailed, strenuous, traditional cleaning once you are home (or in a week or month from then). But I warn you... your bore is much more be likely to be damaged from your over-enthusiastic scrubbing to get out that "last speck of copper" (which has no affect on the actual accuracy of your firearm) than it will with all the rounds you could possibly send down it during your lifetime.
Dennis Kroh