My shooting stinks...help.

Ron Ankeny

New member
I’ll apologize for the length in advance. I am sincerely looking for some help from all of you so I hope you take the time to read my post and respond.

I am 44 years old and I quit competing 10-12 years ago. I have shot many thousands of rounds through double action PPC revolvers made by Power, Davis, etc. and at my pinnacle I was a very competitive master class shooter in PPC and Action Pistol. I also always finished in the top 20 in the now defunct National Pistol League. I have coached and trained numerous Expert Class shooters into the Master class and I think I have K and N frame Smiths figured out.

Along the way, I tinkered with a dozen or so 1911 style pistols including such pistols as Clark long heavy slides, and an early Les Baer govt. model. However, I always competed with heavy barrel revolvers and I never took autos seriously. When I was shooting, no one took an automatic seriously in my disciplines. My crowd shot little groups at what would now be considered long yardage, with liberal par times while the “other guys” shot their autos at bigger targets up close and personal against the clock. Still, I have always had a love affair with the 1911. The heft, the way they point, their heritage, etc. is very appealing to me.

I have resolved to learn how to run a 1911. I set my Dillon up for .45 auto. I have obtained a couple of five-gallon buckets full of brass, and so on. I bought a Kimber Custom Stainless Gold Match because it is so fine looking (unfortunately beauty is only skin deep) then I had Brian Bilby make it run. I built target frames and purchased over a hundred bucks worth of cardboard IDPA targets. I even bought a new timer. Off to the range I go and the problems start.

First, how do you grip a 1911? I think I figured that out by watching Brian Enos, Rob Leatham, etc, explain grip on a video. I think my grip is OK but how do you pull the trigger? I pull a Smith trigger double action by two staging and indexing the tip of my finger against the frame or by using the continuous pull using the second joint . That doesn’t work with a 1911. So, I am using the tip of my index finger on the trigger instead of the second joint and I guess that is correct form. OK, so how do you shut the slide? I have shot Glocks a bunch and I also have played around with a P7M8 a lot. I “slingshot” those pistols. In the old days I closed a 1911 slide with the right thumb. But isn’t it better to close a 1911 slide with the thumb of the support hand? Then there is the draw. For years and years I shot those big old heavy revolvers from break-front holsters swinging them like a pendulum with the revolver settling into the “sweet spot” about the time the cylinder stop was finding its home. Don’t work with an auto. Heck, that doesn’t even work with a stock revolver. As near as I can tell, you meet your weak hand with your strong hand at your chest, get your grip, then push the auto to the target. When you get good, the first shot breaks at the instant you obtain the target. Got that from a video too. Unfortunately, the draw and grip is all that was covered in the video.

Well guys, I gathered all my stuff up, including the timer and a print out of the IDPA qualifier and off to the range I went. A thousand rounds later I am double tapping the target right in the middle but I am slow. Then I try multiple targets and things go to heck. I stink at the El Presidente and shooting while walking is not possible. I suck, big time. I can shoot the qualifier better with a 2 ½ inch model 19 Smith and full boat loads. I would be lucky to qualify at the top of the marksman class. I am smart enough to know I need to find a coach. Of course, none are to be found here. All my buddies are revolver shooters, and the LEO guys are Glock shooters and only a couple of them are any good. I am slow as heck on the reload. Heck I don’t even know how to reload a 1911. Don’t laugh, I am incredibly fast at reloading a revolver and I can tell you it is an art and most folks go about it all wrong. There must be a technique, trick, or method to reloading an auto fast, especially the “tactical reload”, and I don’t know what it is.

I told Brian Bilby I am ready to go back to revolvers. Of course, Brian told me to stick with it, learn proper technique, and when it all comes together, I should be able to make a 1911 really “rock and roll”. Yeah, that’s what I needed hear. I wanna rock with a 1911 come “hell or high water”.

Since I can’t find a coach here, so I am going to travel to matches, watch, listen and learn and steal every idea that looks valid. I know some of them won’t work for me, but some will. Still, I need to be developing skills now. I have a good grip. I understand the mechanics of obtaining a sight picture. I have a decent but not great control of the trigger and I am working on the draw. I can handle match pressure, and I have an above average grasp of the mental game. What I don’t know is how to shoot and move. How to reload. How to do a tactical reload. How to do a clearance drill. How to smoothly engage multiple targets (in action pistol the targets are much closer together edge to edge, the revolver much heavier, and all you need to do is make par time). I need help and the sooner the better.

Please, can any of you point me to a rock solid video, book or Web site that addresses these issues? I don’t want to hear about some revolutionary gimmick. I need sound info on the mechanics and basic skills of shooting a 1911 “fast and accurately”. Thanks, and trust me, I will look into any and all suggestions.
 
Hi Ron,

I'm not a "master" with a pistol by any means, but I have been putting 600-700 rounds a week through my Kimber these last few weeks in a "480" pistol tournament I entered.

As for trigger, I've found that the tip / first joint of the finger works best with the 1911s SA. Be very smooth, and it should reward you. My biggest problem is keeping myself from mashing that sucker under tough time limits.

Releasing the slide, I use the overhand technique using the slide ahead of the ejection port. (the forward serrations are ugly, but very helpful) Using the support hand to release the slide lock is a hair faster, but overhand is more reliable in my experience. Other people do it differently.

Failure drills, I have a couple that I use on a regular basis. failure to feed / chamber:

1: Tap rear of slide with palm (you would be suprised how often that works)

2: Slap base of magazine with palm.

3: cycle the slide manually

If that drill fails:

1: Lock slide to the rear

2: rip magazine from weapon

3: cycle slide manually to clear cartridge from the action (not always necessary)

4: insert magazine (hard) and cycle slide.

With practice you can do this very quickly.

Failure to fire:

1: cycle action to clear bad cartridge and load the next. Gun still fails to fire throw it at target
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Stovepipe jam:

1: tilt weapon to the right and cycle action. case should drop out.

2: if it fails to drop on its own, use support hand to "wipe" down the top of the slide from front to rear. This will be hard on your hand, but should get it out. This is the technique to use when it really important to get the next shot off.

Reloading, Try using your index finger on your support / loading hand to "locate" the butt of the pistol when inserting magazine.

I don't know what kind of grip you are using, but I "ride" the thumb safety with my strong hand thumb, with my supporting hand thumb kind of half on the first thumb. Feels good to me. (but I have a callus on my right thumb now)

I think you have the draw down. at least as far as I can tell.

Hope something here helps, I don't know of anywhere you can get real info free, information in the gun world is a closely held revenue raiser. Ask a gunsmith to show you how to polish a feed ramp
wink.gif

I've just been going by the seat of my pants.

[This message has been edited by Dave AA (edited April 22, 2000).]
 
Ron:

I am a LEO Firearms Instructor who has carried 1911s for years. Judging from what you posted, all you need is lots of practice. Your trigger control sounds about right, about half of the first joint of your trigger finger. The grip should be the same as on a revolver. That is grip it as high as you can on the back strap, to cut down on percieved recoil. I also agree with the sling shot method of releasing the slide, thats the way, that I also instruct my Officers on their Glocks. It is more fumble free and with practice should be faster than using the slide stop. Plus it works on any semiauto pistol.
You know the basics of sight alignment, you know to focus on the front sight, you know breath control, trigger control, you should know how to analyze a target to correct your mistakes. You know the basics all you need to do is get familiar with the 1911 and practice, practice and more practice. Have Fun.
smile.gif



...7th

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SUPPORT YOUR LOCAL POLICE, KEEP THEM INDEPENDENT.
 
Oops, forgot about shooting on the move.

"American Guardian" April 2000 had an article on it.
Best I can describe it, you step off to your right or left, let's say right, into a "Step and Drag" movement. Using your right leg to bear your weight, keep it bent at the knee and drag your left leg toward the right. repeat. try to "glide" as you move. Go very slowly, but do not stop moving. Work up to moving faster. Works best with a close Weaver hold. The further out the gun, the more "bounce"
 
Ron,

It sounds like you just need to change your thought pattern slightly. You are used to "prepping" the trigger, pulling through all that double action stuff and stopping just before the release so the final break is like single action.

The 1911 is pre-prepped. Yours should have just a little slack in the trigger. That's your trigger prep. Take up the slack then break the shot.

Multiple target acquisition just take rounds down range - no short cuts - practice, practice...

Shooting on the move - get low and be smooth. Try moving fast in the kitchen with a full cup of coffee. You'll figure it out. Find a posture that allows smooth movement in all directions. The cup of coffe thing really works.

The draw - get some index points you can feel on the gun or holster. Web of hand high on grip safety, index finger on "bump" of slide stop pin, thumb on top-left edge of slide, etc. The pendulum might help while prepping a revolver trigger but it doesn't work well with the auto. Index the draw hand (don't draw until you feel all your index points), up just enough to clear leather (or kydex), support hand moves to center of sternum, hands meet just in front of chest, firm grip (60% with support hand), press forward to target while thumb breaks safety (thumb rides on safety lever), target...slack...break shot.

Consistent support hand position is critical. Some like a finger on the front of the trigger guard, some (like me) don't. I tend to pull shots left with the finger out there. The object of all that grip checkering is to get some meat on it. With the gun in your shooting hand ready to fire, analyze the remaining portion of grip available and figure out how to get as much of the support hand in contact with the gun as possible but not in the way of the firing stroke.

I keep my shooting hand thumb on top of the safety lever and my support thumb is directly below it and pointed in the same direction with the tip of the support thumb just touching the frame at the forward edge of the slide stop. The meaty part of the support hand heel is pressed into the grip while all four fingers wrap around and squeeze. The shooting hand squeezes fore/aft and the support hand side/side. Grip should be as tight as a very firm handshake. I had to change my grip a few years ago and it took about three weeks of dry fire drawing, starting extremely slow and mechanical, to change muscle memory. I knew I had it when I noticed one of my knuckles getting very tender and realized it was being tapped by my wedding ring on the other hand. That's when I knew I was being consistent.

Good luck

Mikey
 
Ron, I think you're in a hurry, because you are already an experienced shooter. I, too, transitioned from a revolver to a 1911 and couldn't hit a barn door from inside the barn.All your timing and instincts have to change, and only practice will get you there.It sounds like you're doing everything right, so slow down and do it right.Speed comes from repetition....
 
Decided to step up to that ultra-modern 1911 design, eh?
wink.gif
j/k

I don't have much intelligent to say other than keep practicing. Chances are, you've been shooting longer than I've been alive
tongue.gif


I'm into shooting for the fun and a little bit of personal competition. I don't see much sense in competing because I don't get to the range often enough to do so. I wouldn't fare well due to my lack of range sessions. Sounds like you were a great shot a one time... you got THERE through practice... seems you can probably do it again.

Ben

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Almost Online IM: BenK911
ICQ # 53788523
"Gun Control Is Being Able To Hit Your Target"

[This message has been edited by Ben (edited April 23, 2000).]
 
This is a case where experience is a hinderance rather than a help. Your prior training has inculcated a powerful set of unconscious and now mostly involuntary revolver-specific psycho-motor responses to the simple commands "Draw - Aim - Shoot".
The only way to break this cycle of responses is to practice each new element of the draw, presentation, sight alignment and trigger control with close attention to detail, until your mind has accepted the changes. Speed will come with practice.

You are already consciously aware of proper technique; now you must allow yourself to become UN-consciously aware. Think of it as 're-engraving response pathways'. It takes time and repetition to accomplish, but you'll find that the older skills are not erased by acquiring new ones, and may in fact be enhanced by them.

Good Shooting -- slabsides

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If they take our guns, I intend to let my hair grow long and acquire the jawbone of an ass.
 
Ron, your not too far from Salt Lake City...
If you ever come down this way - let me know.
We'll go to the range and I'll give you some coaching.
Shooting is kinda like Golfing - you can read about how to do it right... but it's best to have someone there to see what your doing... You may not be aware of exaclty what your right or wrong. So having a coach watch you is very important.

Oh - and getting some Coaching is no weakness... Every one should get some coaching about every 6 months to maintain top form. Think of it as honing a sharp edge...

[This message has been edited by George Hill (edited April 24, 2000).]
 
Ron,

The fact that you've shot more than one magazine of ammo through your 1911 tells me that you already know how to reload it.
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You're looking for speed, right?

When you time your reloads, how much time elapses between the last shot of Mag #1 and the first shot of Mag #2?
 
Ron, get some paper and draw some 2" circles on it. The starting at 4 yards, SLOWLY put
some shots into the target contcentrate on not looking at the target between shots- only the front sight. This will give you the feedback you need to determine the shooting error you might have.
When you have conquered the target at 4 yards
move back to the seven with the same 2" targets and SLOWLY squeeze to get a surprise break. Once the gun has gone off do NOT relax
your grip or look up at the target. Smoothly
release the trigger and start another trigger pull. As an ole PPC shooter I can symathize
with you; I got to where I wouldn't even shoot a s/a trigger during the season because it would throw my timing offf.
 
Yep, the problem is timing, manual of arms, etc. I have been going to the range every day after work because I am working on the grip. Don't want to develop the grip under dry fire because I want to see how the grip handles recoil, etc. I think I have found a grip and draw that works so now I can dry fire.

I have signed up for four matches and already sent my money in for the First Annual High Altitude Steel Shoot in Dubois, WY. I guess it's time to practice, practice...

George:

Do you guys have any informal IDPA matches? I am going to go to SLC to shoot my bow on the DART System and maybe I can make the trip coincide with a match.

[This message has been edited by Ron Ankeny (edited April 25, 2000).]
 
Some excellent advice above. Remember that the essentials for pistol shooting are:

1. Stance/position
2. Grip
3. Breath Control
4. Sight Alignment/Sight Picture
5. Trigger Control
6. Follow Through

For some good basic training methodology and doctrine, may I suggest Gunsite's Tactical Pistol video. It's a good place to start. Then, hook up with George Hill or another competent, respected instructor and practice a lot.

Good luck!

Tim
http://www.streetpro.com
Street Smart Professional Equipment
 
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