mercedes.1965
Inactive
Can someone please critique my method of reloading???
https://youtu.be/SWn-66ISSaQ
Open to all criticism
https://youtu.be/SWn-66ISSaQ
Open to all criticism
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My reloading process
- Thread starter mercedes.1965
- Start date
Air Force uniforms sure have changed since I served from 86-90.
I'm shocked that you are aloud to do anything on youtube while in uniform, much less a sloppy one with your name and USAF Velcro on in such a sloppy manner and using foul language. Heads would be rolling if anyone in my Base showed up to work looking like that.
As far as your reloading question goes, I was too lost in the uniform to even listen to anything you were saying
I'm shocked that you are aloud to do anything on youtube while in uniform, much less a sloppy one with your name and USAF Velcro on in such a sloppy manner and using foul language. Heads would be rolling if anyone in my Base showed up to work looking like that.
As far as your reloading question goes, I was too lost in the uniform to even listen to anything you were saying
mercedes.1965
Inactive
I know, these name tapes are so cheap that they fall off when I'm just walking. We are allowed ton do pretty much anything in uniform except protest, politics, or be part of any movement. Foul language is just a bad habit.
drain smith
New member
Rule 1. I will not shoot your reloads, and you will not shoot mine.
Now that is not how you remove military crimps. This is why many of us will not reload any brass that did not come from our own guns.
You do know that your press came with a small primer punch, don't you?
Your cases crushed down from one of two things, you did not chamfer the inside of the case enough, or you left burs inside the case and did not use the wire brush to clean it out.
Now if you are stationed at Offutt pm me and I will mentor you for free.
Now that is not how you remove military crimps. This is why many of us will not reload any brass that did not come from our own guns.
You do know that your press came with a small primer punch, don't you?
Your cases crushed down from one of two things, you did not chamfer the inside of the case enough, or you left burs inside the case and did not use the wire brush to clean it out.
Now if you are stationed at Offutt pm me and I will mentor you for free.
mercedes.1965
Inactive
Thank you for the constructive criticism. Very helpful. I'm stationed at Malmstrom AFB Great Falls MT
I've always been under the impression that the difference between .223-5.56 is the gun/rifle, not the case dimensions. https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=223 vs 5.56
FWIW I have been using a chamfer tool/countersink to remove primer crimps for way over 20 years (life long machinist/mechanic) and have chamfered several thousand 5.56, 45 ACP, 9mm, 30-06 and 7.62x51...
I didn't watch the entire video as to me, it seems like "the blind leading the blind". The "bore gauge" is a case length gauge. For someone watching terminology makes a difference. I would want someone that produces a video on any "How To" subject to know more about the subject. This is a main problem with youtube; anyone can post a video...
No offence to the OP, just sayin'...
FWIW I have been using a chamfer tool/countersink to remove primer crimps for way over 20 years (life long machinist/mechanic) and have chamfered several thousand 5.56, 45 ACP, 9mm, 30-06 and 7.62x51...
I didn't watch the entire video as to me, it seems like "the blind leading the blind". The "bore gauge" is a case length gauge. For someone watching terminology makes a difference. I would want someone that produces a video on any "How To" subject to know more about the subject. This is a main problem with youtube; anyone can post a video...
No offence to the OP, just sayin'...
firewrench044
New member
mikld --
Use the correct tool to remove the primer crimp
it is not expensive and easier to use
And the worst part is YOU ARE PROUD of improper procedures
mercedes,1965 --
Only watched part of video, you still have a lot to learn
Use the correct tool to remove the primer crimp
it is not expensive and easier to use
And the worst part is YOU ARE PROUD of improper procedures
mercedes,1965 --
Only watched part of video, you still have a lot to learn
shootniron
New member
Based on the feedback, so far...you don't know what the hell you are doing and it is a wonder you have not blown yourself up and been thrown out of the military.
Just consider the source...internet forum commando's.
Geeee Whizzzz
Just consider the source...internet forum commando's.
Geeee Whizzzz
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mercedes.1965
Inactive
Thank you ALL for your feedback. It's greatly appreciated. As you can tell I'm very new to reloading but my goal is to reload several thousand round of 9mm .223 and .308 to just have on hand. If anyone can point me towards a good post about the basics, I'd love to learn more!
"...name tapes are so cheap that they fall off..." Knew a guy in the CF who stapled his on. Asked what he'd do when it fell off. He pulled a wee stapler out of his pocket.
As mentioned, read the manual. And don't just reload several thousand rounds. You have to work up the load for each firearm you have.
As mentioned, read the manual. And don't just reload several thousand rounds. You have to work up the load for each firearm you have.
here is my advice and not trying to be a prick.
don't wear your military uniform on u tube just to look cool. thanks for your service though. BTW I come from a military family with PLT Sgts and more. you just don't do that.
1) not a bore gauge its a case checker. the reason the brass didn't fit in the gauge has nothing to do with 5.56 or 223 it didn't fit because its not sized.
2) the reasoning with the case being flush at the mouth is for trim length. if its over the gauge you trim it.
3) I use 100% Lake city brass that comes strait from the military in my 223 bolt action. the case has nothing to do with using in 223 vs 5.56.
4) you measured a empty case and called it over all length-OAL. this is NOT OAL this is just measuring a case to make sure it doesn't need trimmed.
5) you should not take it upon yourself to deviate from the book specs for anything like you did with trimming. this gets people hurt. STOP DOING THIS.
6) NEVER reload for anyone because guns are different and you could hurt someone. especially you being new and not really knowing what your doing.
7) the "stoppage" of the gun not firing the bullet is called a misfire. if you don't seat below flush than the round wont go off because the primers not compressed. use the calipers and open them up and use the pointy end at the bottom and press against the primer until it closes the calipers and this will tell you if your at the recommended 4-5k below flush.
8)by your video that appears to be the large priming arm and not the small. you should use the small for small rifle primers. that things got a lot of play in the cup the primers in.
9) I just looked up your load data and you said the only manual you used was a hornady. Hornady doesn't list the barns bullet in their manual and accurate.com powder doesn't list a 36gr bullet to be used with that powder. I suggest you stop and get on here, thehighroad.com or reloadersnest and start asking questions and stop playing guessing games before you hurt yourself or someone else. I would really like to know where you got 24gr which is cooking in 223 powders. you don't just throw whatever powder charge you feel like to get speed you MUST workup from the start and go higher.
10) I just looked up your load data for the IMR and its very short. you have 1.3gr you can play with. your just asking to blow yourself or a buddy up.
11) you should NEVER guess how much powder is coming out you should always weigh a charge a few times to make sure nothings been nocked off from the day before. can you say KABOOM!
12) go buy a powder trickler. throw the charge in the case and dump on the pan then trickle the amount.
13) If you went from 21.2 to 24gr with the next throw something's off.
14) 24:58 you took a guess again and it wasn't on the money of what its supposed to be. if you want 2.240 you need to be there. sometimes seating deeper or longer will cause high pressure. stop guessing and do it right.
15) 25:45-you showed pics of a round seated deeper and a round seated to what you want and said it was okay because its not a compressed load. again stop guessing and do it right.
stop loading and start asking more questions. your video shows you giving a lot of info or advice that's wrong. don't mean to be a prick just stop before you get hurt or worse hurt someone else.
don't wear your military uniform on u tube just to look cool. thanks for your service though. BTW I come from a military family with PLT Sgts and more. you just don't do that.
1) not a bore gauge its a case checker. the reason the brass didn't fit in the gauge has nothing to do with 5.56 or 223 it didn't fit because its not sized.
2) the reasoning with the case being flush at the mouth is for trim length. if its over the gauge you trim it.
3) I use 100% Lake city brass that comes strait from the military in my 223 bolt action. the case has nothing to do with using in 223 vs 5.56.
4) you measured a empty case and called it over all length-OAL. this is NOT OAL this is just measuring a case to make sure it doesn't need trimmed.
5) you should not take it upon yourself to deviate from the book specs for anything like you did with trimming. this gets people hurt. STOP DOING THIS.
6) NEVER reload for anyone because guns are different and you could hurt someone. especially you being new and not really knowing what your doing.
7) the "stoppage" of the gun not firing the bullet is called a misfire. if you don't seat below flush than the round wont go off because the primers not compressed. use the calipers and open them up and use the pointy end at the bottom and press against the primer until it closes the calipers and this will tell you if your at the recommended 4-5k below flush.
8)by your video that appears to be the large priming arm and not the small. you should use the small for small rifle primers. that things got a lot of play in the cup the primers in.
9) I just looked up your load data and you said the only manual you used was a hornady. Hornady doesn't list the barns bullet in their manual and accurate.com powder doesn't list a 36gr bullet to be used with that powder. I suggest you stop and get on here, thehighroad.com or reloadersnest and start asking questions and stop playing guessing games before you hurt yourself or someone else. I would really like to know where you got 24gr which is cooking in 223 powders. you don't just throw whatever powder charge you feel like to get speed you MUST workup from the start and go higher.
10) I just looked up your load data for the IMR and its very short. you have 1.3gr you can play with. your just asking to blow yourself or a buddy up.
11) you should NEVER guess how much powder is coming out you should always weigh a charge a few times to make sure nothings been nocked off from the day before. can you say KABOOM!
12) go buy a powder trickler. throw the charge in the case and dump on the pan then trickle the amount.
13) If you went from 21.2 to 24gr with the next throw something's off.
14) 24:58 you took a guess again and it wasn't on the money of what its supposed to be. if you want 2.240 you need to be there. sometimes seating deeper or longer will cause high pressure. stop guessing and do it right.
15) 25:45-you showed pics of a round seated deeper and a round seated to what you want and said it was okay because its not a compressed load. again stop guessing and do it right.
stop loading and start asking more questions. your video shows you giving a lot of info or advice that's wrong. don't mean to be a prick just stop before you get hurt or worse hurt someone else.
You need to read the back of the Hornady One Shot can. It will tell you to let the cases dry completely. Never insert a damp or wet case in the die. It will stick and then the rim will rip off as you try to extract the case.
That case trimmer has a locking mechanism that allows you to set the reamer to take off brass until your case reaches the desired length. That way you don't have to just crank and measure and then crank and measure again. Get the case to the length you want and then set the lock. All other cases will come out that same length regardless of what they were when they went in.
Use the correct primer cup for your cartridge. A large primer cup on your press priming arm will never seat small rifle primers correctly.
I quit watching after you used the large priming cup. Please read the loading manual starting at the front of the book.
Thank you for your service.
That case trimmer has a locking mechanism that allows you to set the reamer to take off brass until your case reaches the desired length. That way you don't have to just crank and measure and then crank and measure again. Get the case to the length you want and then set the lock. All other cases will come out that same length regardless of what they were when they went in.
Use the correct primer cup for your cartridge. A large primer cup on your press priming arm will never seat small rifle primers correctly.
I quit watching after you used the large priming cup. Please read the loading manual starting at the front of the book.
Thank you for your service.
Firewrench, I would like to see anywhere it is reported, the only "correct" method of removing crImps from primer pockets. A cutting tool (chamfer tool or countersink) has been used much longer than any "dedicated"crimp removal tool, "swage' or "uniformer", and even some "famous" reloaders just used a pocket knife. As a person with many years of experience working with metals and reloading for 30+ years, my "wrong" method has worked for me and countless others decrimping countless thousands of cases. Much of processing brass for reloading is just Basic Metal Working 101 ( like 7th grade metal shop). And for a normally informed person, many dedicated reloading tools are just plain old hand tools common for metal working.
And yes, I am proud of the ability to think and use my many years of experience applied to my hobby, and not follow blindly and only use "dedicated reloading only tools".
I suggest you inform yourself before condemning someone's reloading methods (unless of course, you are the acting Captain of the local Reloading Police!)...
And yes, I am proud of the ability to think and use my many years of experience applied to my hobby, and not follow blindly and only use "dedicated reloading only tools".
I suggest you inform yourself before condemning someone's reloading methods (unless of course, you are the acting Captain of the local Reloading Police!)...
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I cut primer crimps with a utility knife, so I'm all about using an impromptu method... but I have a good bit of control cutting a crimp by hand. I would not use any form of power tool to do it unless it was designed specifically for that use.
Didn't watch the rest of the video other than skimming, but OP from an active duty OIF/OEF vet and current reservist... I wouldn't make a habit out of making youtube videos in uniform. I'm happy that you're proud of the uniform... but there's a time and place for everything.
Didn't watch the rest of the video other than skimming, but OP from an active duty OIF/OEF vet and current reservist... I wouldn't make a habit out of making youtube videos in uniform. I'm happy that you're proud of the uniform... but there's a time and place for everything.
firewrench044
New member
mikld --
I was harsh, I apologize
I have no need to be capt. of anything
just be aware new tools are available that do the better job
with more consistent results
A countersink will do the job ( an old method and it works)
Try the tool designed for the job you will probably stay with it
(the reamer is not expensive)
We all are constantly learning and adapting
The one that thinks he knows it all is a fool
I also am a mechanic, fully ASE certified in car, light truck, medium truck,
heavy truck and emergency vehicles
So I understand the need to be inventive, but open to new
procedures and tools used in this constantly changing wold
I was harsh, I apologize
I have no need to be capt. of anything
just be aware new tools are available that do the better job
with more consistent results
A countersink will do the job ( an old method and it works)
Try the tool designed for the job you will probably stay with it
(the reamer is not expensive)
We all are constantly learning and adapting
The one that thinks he knows it all is a fool
I also am a mechanic, fully ASE certified in car, light truck, medium truck,
heavy truck and emergency vehicles
So I understand the need to be inventive, but open to new
procedures and tools used in this constantly changing wold
I wouldn't reload in my uniform.
I wouldn't post a video of me in my uniform with visible patches showing my name, career and assignment.
I damn sure wouldn't follow it up with a post saying where I was stationed.
If you worked for me, you wouldn't either.
Having said all that, I only watched a couple of minutes and the only thing I can say is get an actual bench, that coffee table is wobbling all over the place.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I wouldn't post a video of me in my uniform with visible patches showing my name, career and assignment.
I damn sure wouldn't follow it up with a post saying where I was stationed.
If you worked for me, you wouldn't either.
Having said all that, I only watched a couple of minutes and the only thing I can say is get an actual bench, that coffee table is wobbling all over the place.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Nope, new tooling, a tool someone "invented" for a specific "new" job offers no better results than a tool designed long ago that is used for a non reloading task. I have some "primer pocket crimp removal cutting tools" for sale, just $49.95 + shipping and handling; (https://www.mcmaster.com/#countersinks/=135h8he) and they are guarnteed to preform the taks quickly and easiy. There aren't too many hand tools that are sold today that weren't designed decades ago and just now "discovered" for a new use...