My Mauser Rifle Plan

RomaRana

New member
Just wanted to outline it so people could give me some feed back.

Materials in order of use

Barrel Removal
Wheeler Vise
Wheeler action wrench
lead shims for the vise
Liquid wrench

Scope Mounting
B square Jig set
Drill press
Carbide drill bit
Scope mount and rings
1" steel rod for annealing


Bolt Bending
Mapp tourch
heat sink for bolt
heat sink paste for bolt
Bolt bending fixture from midway
Ball peen hammer


Put barrel back on
Barrel Vise
Action wrench
Headspace gages
Chamber reamer
calipers
Lug lapping materials

Procedures


Barrel removal

Put barreled action the freezer then thaw barrel threads with a candle. Spray with liquid wrench let it sit for a day. Put barrel in the vise with the shims. Use action wrench to remove the reciver.

Scope mounting
Place reciver in the fixture. Slide the bore align arbor in place. Place the V bushings with their V over the arbor holes. Place the bar counterbores on the V bushing. Put the block agianst the bottom flat of the action and insert the screws. Slide the assembly foward until the stop pin is against the rear of the front ring. Tighten the screws. Place assembly in the drill press vise and clamp it with the guide holes vertical. Place the drill guide into each of the holes in turn, and add cutting oil as you drill the holes.

I may need to aneal the drilled parts but heating the section to be drilled with an iron rod and tourch.


as for the rest of the stuff I will adress when I finish the chapters in the book.

Also anybody have the AGI Mauser tapes. Are they worth it. Also when I finish this beast I am gonna do a full LAB REPORT on how to build one and post it on my web page.
 
Get a TDC punch from brownell's and make &$$# sure you align your scope base(S) w/bore axis. When you put the rings on, LAP them before you install the scope. Before drilling any holes, use a bubble level on the drillpress base AND the action. It sure is easy to screw up and angle a screw hole if you don't pay attention. Don't forget bolt facing. You need to make sure the bolt face is squared up.
 
On a '98 you probably won't need the carbide bits, just good carbon steel ones. Carbide bits are easy to break and expensive, and Mausers are not that hard. (Springfields are!)

Also, I doubt you will need the cold treatment, most Mauser barrels come off pretty easily.

For bolt bending, you need a big ball peen hammer and don't be afraid to really bang on it. Keep it hot. FWIW, I much prefer bending to welding on a new handle; bent bolt handles don't come off.

With the drill jig it is pretty hard to mess up, but take it easy and follow the instructions. Since you are building a rifle, you might want to do the drilling on the receiver before installing the barrel; the receiver alone is easier to handle. If the caliber is high recoil, consider #8 screws instead of #6.

Jim
 
It is in 7.62X39 so the recoil will be low.

Is there a lapping kit for the scope or do I just use polishing compound.
 
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Sounds like fun!

Hey guys,
Seems like alot of talk about "sporterizing" Mausers lately... I am interested in some more information. What it all takes for tools, etc... I haven't really ever played around with customizing a gun, (execpt the 10/22) but stuff like this really intrigues me... Any suggestions are welcomed!


-Jared
 
Lots of tools. Like if you are doing this to save money then it is not the way. I got a few tools so far and they were not cheap.

Barrel vise $ 44 (A cheap one)
Action wrench $ 44 (A cheap one)

and I need a ton of other stuff. Not to mention a drill press and a lathe.


In fact up Top I listed most of the tools under materials.
 
KBI is importing new Mauser actions under the Charles Daly name that is suppose to be the same as the Interarms actions of old. For the price of all the tools and a good military action, you can have a Mauser action that is completly sporterized without all of the time and expense; but then again you don't have a rifle that YOU sporterized. Just another option.
 
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