My first sharps

BerdanSS

New member
Picked up my first sharps. Wanted one forever and got a deal I don't think anyone would pass up. Looks like the flash channel has been opened up a little. It's a 1978 manufacture IAB marked, it's never been live fired.










 
My Sharps takes recent manufacture, brass loads.

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You did ask about Sharps rifles, right?!


Your Sharps is much cooler, by the way!!
 
Lol yes HK sharps as in 1863 sharps :D I did see that though that C.sharps is making them automated type feedn rifles.;)]
 
Very nice, Berdan. I am looking for 50/70 repro cavalry carbine, but only Chiappa currently makes them, and reviews are not positive.

In the hunt...
 
stagpanther

Gads! What kind of little grey saucer man laser beaming devilry is that contraption! :D:D:D

kevin I basically got it for $227 my cost including $20 of gas to go get it. It only took me 15 years to get one :rolleyes:

Anyone crazy enough to of tried "modern" .54s in theirs? Like honady plains bullets or dare I say it....cva power belts? I'm walking a hole in the floor waiting for more "proper" bullets from dixie.
 
IAB bores run a little big. I use a .557/490 ringtail with 80 grains of powder in mine. It will lead up bad with pure lead but with clip on wheel weights it doesn't lead at all. The chamber will hold 110 grains of powder. I've tried 100 and it's very accurate with it but you get a lot of flash out the top and bottom with it. I settled on 80 for the least flash and still be accurate. Brass tubes for Pedersoli and other makes will not work. If it's never been live fired chances are the breech plate has never been removed but you need to get it off so you can clean behind it. Once you get it off it will be easier from then on. I had to work a knife blade under mine until I could get a screwdriver worked under it before it came off. IAB does not have a removable chamber insert either which is one reason for so much flash. There is an O ring mod you can do to make less flash and make it run longer before it starts to bind but you have to have the breech block machined for it. If you use Pyrodex there will be a delay in firing and CCI reenactor caps won't work.
 
mines the 1859 /1863 design/
I use the old style brass cartridge and pretty much the same bullet as hawg.
I do roll paper cartridges with cigarette papers.
Or I can bulk load also.
Bulk or paper recommended is 80 gr. the cartridge is about 50 gr IIRC.

Sometimes the brass gets stuck and need to use a rod to push back out.
Mines a Pedersoli and does shoot good. But the price is quite a bit higher.
 
I'm having a heck of a time with my internet tonight. The breech plate will come off. If it comes off easy for you all is good. If it doesn't don't give up on it.









Please don't make my mistake and use red moly grease on it trying to make it run longer.

The bullet I use.



Dip lubed.

 
yep even though it's not traditional as it didn't exist back then, I use white lithium engine assembly lube. But just a dab.
Only because it stays in place better than regular oil.
 
If it doesn't you will really get a lot of flash. When the gun fires that plate pushes against the barrel breech and makes a seal. The Pedersoli and C. Sharps etc have a sliding chamber sleeve that pushes against the breech face and makes an even better seal. It WILL come off, you may just have to work at it. I doubt mine had ever been removed and it took me over an hour to work it off. I started with an old knife blade and then moved up to a screwdriver and yes a hammer to get the knife blade started. Don't use a good knife.:D
 
Well I went out to mom and dad's place yesterday at dusk with some 80gr blanks. Fired a cap to clear out the nipple and channle. Loaded the first blank, clean cut with a tiny amount of powder spilled on the breech block. Capped.....BOOM! Went off without a hitch. Had dad watching, he said there was a massive fireball out the muzzle but little to no flash from the area of the chamber on that, or the subsequent blanks.

I also noted not being peppered in the face with anything around my shooting glasses. I'm going to take this as a good sign as I'm assuming blanks would produce much less of a gas seal as a live round since there is little to no pressure.
 
I'm assuming blanks would produce much less of a gas seal as a live round since there is little to no pressure.

It will be different with a live round. Did you get the breech plate off?
 
I've tried it all, even red moly but don't do that, it's a real PITA to get off. No matter what I use it starts to bind after about 10 shots but if you drop the lever til it stops and close it again it will open on up and run like that for a good while. White lithium works about as well as anything and isn't too bad to clean up.
 
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