My first S&W revolver, have a few basic questions

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AID_Admin

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Let me start by thanking everyone on this forum who helped me to choose my first S&W revolver. After dozens of trips to the range trying different revolvers I came to a conclusion (with help of forum members) that K-Frame fits me best. I had a very hard time deciding between Models 66 and 19, but got a pretty good deal on the stainless one and it looks very clean. So, even though I though I liked blue finish better I talked myself into the idea that stainless gun is a lot easier to take care of . Thus now I am a happy new owner of a very cool looking Model 66-3 with 6" barrel. :D

Anyway, here it is, my first S&W revolver. I picked it up from my FFL a few hours ago and already dry fired about 100 times (using zoom caps of course). Now I have a few questions, firstly... please look a the picture, is this what's called target trigger and target hammer? Model 66 that I was renting seemed to have a smaller hammer and smooth trigger. This trigger has vertical... ribs? It is less slippery, but irritates the skin on the index finger a little after 50 or so shots. :rolleyes:

Secondly, while I dig the look of classic wooden grips they don't seem to be as comfortable as rubberized and sculptured ones installed on all rental S&W guns. Grips on this gun, while cool looking, seem a little too chunky for my hand. I know the are easily changeable, I guess my question is should I replace them right away, or wait and see if I get use to them?

I guess this is it... I just can't wait to get on the range with this gun and see what I can do with it. ;)

SW_66.jpg
 
Wow, that’s a pretty nice revolver I’m sure you’ll enjoy it. I have a snub-nose M66 and it is one of my favorite guns and still gets a little carry in cooler months.

I noticed Wikipedia has a picture of a gun very similar if not identical to yours at the bottom of the Model 19/66 page. I’m not sure what it tells us, but it does appear the hammer, trigger and grips are the same.

As for changing the grips I’d probably shoot it a few times and then make a decision. I’ve purchased guns before certain that a change was needed only to figure out it was fine the way it came. If you do change grips there are lots of choices for the K-Frame, so you should be able to find something you like pretty easily.
 
Very nice gun. One of the things I really like about firearms is that if you get a quality gun (which you have already done) it will last you a long, long time.

Hope you can afford to feed it. :D

That said, it could be a fun project of your own to find out what ammo YOU like to shoot out of it. 125 grain, 158, etc (or even .38 specials).

At one time any handgun that came my way had me down at the gun store looking for the appropriate Pachmayr grip for the gun.
http://pachmayr.com/home/

With an S&W there are *lots* to choose from like Hogue:
http://www.hoguestore.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=22_36
http://www.hoguestore.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=22_36_89_520_225

Good luck.
 
I am not as familiar in the distinction between the target trigger, but I think you have it right.

As for grips, the K frame has HUNDREDS of grip options, if not more. If you decide to change the grips, BE CAREFUL. Your grips appear to be in very good to excellent condition. Do not sell the grips on eBay or something stupid like that. Hold on to them, and your gun will appreciate in value much more than with a set of rubber grips.

Personally, I like the Pacmyer grips when I shoot. Hogue unigrips are ok, but not my favorite. Some of the old Uncle Mikes grips are nice too, but no longer in production. You can also get some very nice wooden grips with finger grooves, but for the price, I'd just stick to rubbers.
 
Great looking M66. I have a 4inch 66-2. The grips are cheap enough, just buy a pair and try it out. I have Pach presentation grips on my but the Hogue were a close second. I'd leave the trigger and hammer alone, if the trigger really bothers you then a little light sanding will smooth down the ribs.
 
Those are the standard hammer and trigger. The target ones are wider. The groved trigger was popular in a day when people shot more S/A. The idea was that the grooves would stop your finger from slipping. Later on, as D/A shooting rose to prominance, people found just what you have found. The groves HURT. Smith & Wesson later changed the trigger to a smooth one, that allowed the finger to slide during D/A fire.

Your finger will toughen up. When I got my first 19 years ago I about wore the skin off my trigger finger until I got a calus built up. It's sort of like playing a guitar.

I like the Hogue monogrip for shooting a Model 19. I liked the Smith & Wesson target grips for looks.
 
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Those are classic grips. In my opinion, cheap rubber grips on a beauty like that is a crime. Your hands of course, but I'd at least give them a few range sessions. They are easy to replace however.

If you do replace them, make sure you keep the originals.
 
The 66 has a standard striated trigger and checkered hammer, not target.

Smooth triggers for constant double action shooting didn't come about until
recently compared to that "classic" striation. Was a time the double action shooters used to smooth out those ridges if not get rid of them altogether.

A true target hammer and target trigger are much, much wider with some of the target triggers actually a bit wider than the trigger guard.

As for the grips, whatever you do, don't discard them! Those wood grips are getting harder and harder to come by and contribute to the value of the gun.
Put them in a safe place if you decide to get, for instance, a Hogue rubber or wood one-piece grip.

The more that's left alone on that 66, the better for value and preservation of how Smith used to make revolvers before the MIM parts, internal lock, etc.

The Smiths before 2000 very often are carrying price tags the same as those for brand new ones. The 66-3 was produced between 1986 and 1994. A Serial Number could pin the year down much better.

CajunBass has stated things very, very well.
 
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S&W's factory target stocks 'may' harken back to a better time but they're terrible for shooting. I would suggest something like Ahrends' Retro Target grips at the least or at best, Herrett's Roper or BluMagnum Skeeter Skelton stocks. You'll never use anything else once you try them.

I agree, standard hammer and trigger. Grooves suck.
 
As has been said, those are standard trigger and hammer. Pre war triggers and hammers were slimmer, but 'Sixties vintage have your type as standard. And Target triggers and hammers were very much wider than yours.

As to grips, rubber grips are O.K. though ugly as sin, for milder .38 Special loads. But for full power magnum, smooth wood, ivory, or stabilized wood are far superior, in my opinion.

Rubber grips are very unforgiving for fast DA work.

Bob Wright
 
Gentlemen, thank you very much for all your replies. I am going to leave the grips alone for now and give it a few range sessions before making any decision. But the point is understood: if I decide to change them do not sell or loose them, keep them for the value purposes. Thanks.
 
I just checked my 66-2 4inch. Same hammer but smooth trigger. Maybe it had something to do with the barrel length, the serrated trigger for 6inch models? As for looks the pachmayr presentation grips are the least ugle replacement and they work well for me.
 
A cheapie cure for the trigger bite is to just use some shrink tubing over it.
That stuff is useful for all kinds of things it wasn't designed for.
And definitely change the grips.
You will shoot it much better with a nice set of softer rubber ones.
 
I really like the S&W rubber grips, defiantly keep those for resale value, they are way more pretty then the rubber ones. or if you ever open carry they will look nice, lol
 
Bob Wright said:
Rubber grips are very unforgiving for fast DA work.
Click to expand...

:confused: I'm not aware of any correlation between DA speed and material (rubber vs wood). You may be extrapolating from a single data point (wood JM grips), but JM himself often uses rubber in competition.

Speaking of Miculek, he actually prefers a serrated trigger (the 625JM even comes with one), though he puts less finger on the trigger face than many revolver shooters. I actually narrow my triggers even more than factory, then finish the face off with a nice polishing. But when experimenting with less finger on the trigger, I see how serrations might helps.

AID_Admin said:
if I decide to change them do not sell or loose them, keep them for the value purposes.
Click to expand...

Yep. Many revolver shooters have a box full of grips they've tried. And keep in mind that grips aren't immutable. I wouldn't alter the originals, but if you try another kind, and they feel pretty well, there's no reason why you can trim, say, a finger groove, to make them fit really well.

Congrats on a mighty fine revolver!
 
Was a time the double action shooters used to smooth out those ridges if not get rid of them altogether.
Click to expand...

I guess I'm one of the old school guys. Any revolver I've bought that had the grooved trigger has immediately gone to a smith to have the face smoothed, radiused and polished, and a trigger job. I've sold a lot of the pistols I've owned, and a few revolvers years ago; but now the revolvers are keepers that will go to my son when I die. He likes the smooth, radiused triggers too. None of mine have been collector pieces.
 
I have revolvers with the smooth triggers as well as older ones with the grooved triggers. I think I like the grooved trigger the best. I don't care for the wide target triggers, it seems like my finger is too fat for the wide trigger. I can't explain that but the tip of the trigger bothers me on the wide triggers.
The narrow grooved trigger suits me for double or single action.
 
Gentlemen, while we are on the subject of triggers and trigger jobs, can anyone recommend a competent S&W gunsmith in Chicago area? Not that I necessarily want/ need to get a trigger job on this gun, but I may want I would turn it in for a basic inspection.

I opened the "revolver checkout list" PDF and went through all points of check with my watchmaker's loupe (yes, my other hobby for many years). The gun looks spotless, but if there is a good gunsmith near by I may as well have a pro do an inspection. And I will probably need his services in the future for other guns anyway...

Any recommendations? Thank you.
 
Put a few hundred rounds through it before thinking about trigger work! For target use only you can buy a spring kit to lighten the pull.
 
Oh no, like I said above. I don't plan on doing a trigger job. After firing a Russian Nagant for a little while S&W trigger feels as smooth as butter, believe me! :D I just wanted to know a good name for future references and perhaps for a basic checkup of this gun, if the gunsmith is close by...
 
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