My first loads ever

M

McCarthy

Moderator
My first batch of 50 rounds. Took me several hours. I triple checked everything.

I made up an Excel load data template which fits into the lid of 50 round ammo boxes. I'll put all cases back into the same slot and write down velocity notes for each case on the template for detailed analyses when back at home.

Any suggestions for improvements? If you guys want the Excel file just send me a PM.

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I think you may drive yourself a bit crazy with that level of detail, but to each his own. Also, going up in tenth grain steps is also a tough way to go -- so similar that it's difficult to realize differences and frankly, OTHER factors can have as much/more effect than a simple tenth grain... which doesn't even speak to the consistency of your weighing them. (Scale drift, repeatability, built-in error)

Suggest you use a 0.3 or 0.4 grain step to see actual tangible differences on performance.

Lastly, I've been loading 10mm for a long, long time. Bullseye is at the bitter end of it's range in 10mm, a slower burning powder is a better choice here. I like Power Pistol and Longshot, others love HS-6, Blue Dot or IMR-800X. Accurate#7 does well here too, as do many other powders... all better than Bullseye.

Overall, it seems like you are enjoying yourself and your attention to detail is to be commended.
 
thats exactly how to work your way up in reloading. Great recordings. Leave some blank areas for chronograph records.

Supurb!
 
Great looking loads, and great record keeping.

There's nothing quite like the first batch, except the excitement of shooting something you put together for the first time. I'm pretty sure the excitement affected my accuracy (my first wasn't all that long ago), but I didn't care. I could do it all again (and again, and again ...).:D

Keep on being safe!
 
Also, going up in tenth grain steps is also a tough way to go
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McCarthy did this on my advice, most likely. Basically, in another post, I cautioned him that Bullseye can be tempermental in 10mm. I think it's a good move in this application.

-- so similar that it's difficult to realize differences
Click to expand...

In target ammo with fast powders I realize differences with charges down to 1/20th of a grain. For instance, my go-to IDPA target/match ammo is 2.95 grains of Bullseye. 2.9 grains doesn't make PF often enough, and 3.0 grains is more potent than needed. To be certain, big rounds with slow powders, 0.1gn increments may be too similar.

I like the ammo box template. It's clever. It might be more detail than needed, but McCarthy will work this out on his own as he progresses through his handloading experience journey.

I think he did well. I'm looking forward to the range report.
 
Triple checking everything is GOOD! I gave myself a headache just reading your data sheet, but here is nothing wrong with your recording methods, just a bit too extensive for me...:p
 
I would argue that the bulk of us don't even have equipment that can possibly measure five hundredths of a grain -- sometimes, simply placing the powder pan a bit differently on the scale itself might read more of an error than five hundredths of a grain and most of the scales offered for handloading have a built-in accuracy range of +/- one tenth. And for anyone who DOES have that equipment... are you seriously going to build all your ammo with hand-weighed charges? For a semi-auto handgun? This box of 50 took the OP "several hours."

While I would agree that when using Bullseye, especially at the end of it's useful range -- you are more likely to see 0.1 grain differences -- I would not be using Bullseye. Also... things like variances in the low-cost slugs he has chosen or quite simply, the case mouth tension on each particular loaded round will easily affect his results as much or more than a simple tenth-grain is likely to, to say nothing of five hundredths.

All this...
Assuming you own a chronograph that is so irrationally consistent and accurate and a semi-auto that locks up exactly the same way and stays locked exactly the same way -- shooting in the same environmental conditions to realistically compare the results?

As to IDPA loads sitting so close to the legal, acceptable PF? Admittedly, I do not compete. But it seems to me that the argument from those who do is always going to be that you really ought to build them to a PF that ENSURES they will qualify -- you don't know the conditions your ammo witll be tested in and you certainly don't know the chrono they will use on that day. If you go to a match with ammo that genuinely swings on 1/20th of a grain of powder to make or FAIL the power factor... that's just not going to serve you well.

I too will be interested in the results of this testing, but the methods/process... I'm not sure how long he'll last doing all of his load work-ups in this manner. But I'll reiterate that the attention to detail and obvious care in the project bodes very well for him as a new handloader. ;)
 
Welcome to the great addiction of reloading!

McCarthy,
You are starting out correctly, your attenattention to detail will serve you very well in your reloading hobby.
I think all will agree that you are off to a great start.
The advice given by reloaders with decades of experience can not be found in books.
Follow your mentors advice, read your reloading manuals, and search the forum for answers or ask questions!
Be safe and have fun!
JD
 
Well I finally made it to the indoor range. I set up the chrono according to the instructions, including the 2 LED light panels and fired a couple factory rounds. No matter what I tried in 95% of all cases I got no reading whatsoever and a couple times around 6000 and 9000 FPS.

I was so bummed but didn't want to leave without having shot at least some of my own rounds with Bullseye powder. So I decided to shoot 1 round of each load increment and check every case right after for pressure signs. Here are my findings:

1.) The first rounds starting at 5.9gr felt a little bit softer then semi hot factory ammo.

2.) I could feel small increments in increased recoil every other round / 0.2gr.

3.) The Round with 6.5gr felt like the factory ammo I just shot before.

4.) The rounds with 6.7gr and 6.8gr felt harder hitting in my palm and I could see a major ring of fire which was kind of blinding for a few seconds.

5.) I can't find any pressure signs on the cases or primer. I took 3 pictures of the last case with the hottest load (6.8gr).

6.) What I found are (extractor?) scratches on all cases including the factory ammo since I started using the LoneWolf barrel. I marked them on picture no 2.


Here are my questions:

1.) Do you guys see any pressure signs?

2.) Are those extractor scratches? If so why are they there? What does it have to do with the LoneWolf barrel?

3.) Why is my new chrono not working at an indoor range even tho I used the LED lights? No lights or with the shades didn't make any difference.

4.) What is the best known chrono that also works indoors?



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Those rounds at 9000 fps are keepers! :D . . . :( Sorry you couldn't get data.

It's my understanding that chronographs and artificial lighting - especially fluorescent - don't get along well. I've only used mine outdoors at my local range. And when the cease-fire lights activate (little blinking yellow lights - they're not bright at all), my chrono display goes to "err 9." Even though the chrono is in the sun and some 10+ feet from the lights.

At any rate, your brass looks good in terms of pressure. Because Bullseye potentially has such a steep pressure curve in this application, I would try to get some chrono data before moving on. If you liked the feel of a particular load, it might be a good option to load up some more of those - to get a bigger sample size with it. Your trip to the range - although couldn't be characterized as a success - did give you some data.

The mark on the rim looks like an extractor mark. I'm not a Glock expert so I don't know its cause. I just looked at my 10mm brass and they look much the same with the extractor mark and burnishing on the surface (Lone Wolf barrel).

Hopefully, you can get your chrono set up outdoors.
 
Congrats and good job so far.

You need to fire more than one round just to see if your load will cycle the action and load the next round.

Also, be mindful of your bullet profile. Looks like your bullet has a flat meplat with a continuous ogive into the case, no step or shoulder on the bullet. Having enough pressure to cycle the action with different profile bullets can make a difference. The round will headspace on the case rim. A bullet with a smooth profile to the case will not cause a false shoulder that may cause a jam. A bullet with a step or shoulder can cause feed problems at low end pressures.
 
Agreed, very nice job.

While not my level of detail (or the area), its well done and the detail end pays dividends.

You can always loosen up but hard to focus into more detail.

I do think .1 gr is pretty slim jump, that also is said without ref to what it means at those levels in 10mm. If getting to the edge then no.

5 is too few to test but again if on the edge you don't waste rounds either.
 
Nice work!!! I'm thinking as well that you must use round nose bullets in a auto !!! On its way from the mag to the chamber the bullets corner where the meplat meets the bearing surface can sometimes strick the entrance to the barrel and push the projectile back inwards shortening you OACL kinda depends on the sprig strength if it shortens slip by and chambers now you has a fire cracker in the chamber anyone's guess how far back it was pushed or how large or possibly catastrophic the pressure spike can be after all it is a 10MM I believe it has the same ballistics as a 357 magnum so it can destroy the gun easily I have a glock 40 Cal gen 4 same diameter but you case is longer !!! I would not worry just find a easier loading round I reload for 10 of my autos and my 357 magnum 586 that was just a saftie concern I can't stop others from playing with the danger but I personally would not use them !!! We learn as we go and I'm thinking that with the powder you should use should be selected for two reasons one it should be selected to fill your 85% to 95% of your casing !! It is best for volumetric efficiency with the one solid flame front burning your powder and it would be a good slower burning powder second and most importantly is with tight group and the like the super hot fast and economical powders they they leave scorching patterns on the bottom one side of your casing and the dangerous double charge !!! The super fast powders sometimes a little goes a long way like for example 4 grains in a 357 vs 4227 15 grains compressed big difference in amount only a slight increase in performance but since your new to reloading a double charge by error can blow up in your hands !!!! Like I said I recommend a powder that you can't double charge until you get a good idea and practice loading ammo!!! Lastly the range of your scale is variable to the amount of powder you need for you load for example if you used tight group 5 grains then .05 grain is a good scale in ten columns !!!! If you were using 4227 15 grains for same bullet you could scale it for say between 12 and 17 grains a 5 grain spread .5 grain scale !!!! Perfect I said way more then I planed on but you'll find all kinds of different people on these forums lol !!!!!!
 
I also believe in capturing as much detail as possible, since down the road it is always nice to look back and pull some stats from your data. My labeling was also very detailed in the beginning, but I have cut back a bit since I have the information in multiple places in any case.

With the nice detailed label you have inside the ammo box, what happens when you get to the range and you realize that your ammo box opened by accident. You still have the detailed label, but you have no way to match the bullets with the detailed label. A suggestion I have seen somewhere else and one I am using now is to write something on the cartridge with a Sharpie. You write down you load number or the number of grains or make some other identifying mark. This will help in the case where your ammo box opened, or when you collect your spent brass, then you will be able to match the brass up with your actual load for evaluation.

Keep up the attention to detail and be safe.
 
First time loaded some .32 S&W long. Cases are decapped, wet tumbled with stainless steel pins and the loaded rounds were dry tumbled in corn cob media with NuFinish car polish.



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McCarthy, EXCELLENT JOB!
A little OCD, but we all start out that way!

The scratches you show in your pictures are magazine scratches, chambering scratches.
It's nothing to worry about, it just happens.
Most will polish out nearly invisible.

It won't be long until the most valuable thing on your bench will be your load book...
Knowing what NOT to do again is more important than knowing what worked.
You remember what worked, your favorite load,
But you will forget what DIDN'T work pretty quickly,
And if you are like me, you will repeat mistakes...

I'm starting from scratch,
My load books were accidentally tossed out with a box of magazines, so I'm like a kid in the dark again...

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