My article, "How to master the thumbs forward handgun grip"

Trebor

New member
My latest article on my Michigan Firearms Examiner page is on how to master the thumbs forward handgun grip.

This is a photo article because I've seen many shooters who don't understand the mechanics of the grip and just have the thumbs pointed forward without changing the angle of the wrist. I tried to make it as clear as I could.

How to master the thumbs forward handgun grip

"The thumbs forward grip started with competition shooters and spread to defensive pistol instructors and others who recognized the benefits of this once unorthodox style. The grip grew popular because it provides excellent recoil management that allows for faster and more accurate shooting.

To get the most from this technique it needs to be performed correctly. Some shooters simply point their thumbs forward without completely understanding the mechanics of the grip. The name aside, the key is really in the position of the support side wrist, not the thumbs, and once that is understood mastering the grip becomes easy."
 
the position of the support side wrist

I see people grabbing the gun and placing one thumb over the other, but their wrists are essentially "parallel"; with the weak hand canted sharply forward, lines drawn through the wrists form an "X"; the grip is strongly braced, like a bridge, rather than having the bones all running in the same direction and so more easily separated or "broken".
It's similar to the misunderstanding about the salient feature of the old Weaver grip being the bent elbow. The bent elbow was a result of thrusting the weak-side shoulder forward, so the elbow had to be bent downward for the hands to meet on the gun.
Just bending the elbow didn't mean you were using a Weaver stance, just as merely overlapping the thumbs doesn't mean you are executing the "two thumbs forward" grip correctly.
Nicely done.
 
Nicely done, thanks.
Here's a very good video to back up your description of the thumbs forward grip.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJrA7wMXuuQ
A lot of folks avoid actual training by being convinced they can do as well by emulating what they see from videos, magazine articles and forums.
But they miss, as you say, the essence of the techniques they are trying to do.
It really does take someone who knows to watch and correct.
Otherwise the details are never full grasped and understood.
Thanks again for your contribution.
 
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I just do not understand why one needs to learn this grip. I use the tea cup grip for everything that I shoot even my magnums and yes my autos too including my Auto Mag. One grip for everything is automatic and I do not have to worry about slide bite or gas cutting with one of my short barrel revolvers.

Guess one of you did NOT really read my post but there are only a few calibers more energetic then a .44 Auto Mag. It is a toss up for which of my revolvers is the most energenic....my IJ Cattleman .44 magnum with my loading of 22.7 grains of 296 and a 240 grain SWC is no slouch but my old loading of _____ grains of Unique and the same 240 grain bullet but in my 624sure puts more pain in my hands.

I use the T cup grip and shoot both dominant and weak side.
 
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I just do not understand why one needs to learn this grip.
You learn new things to improve yourself. Some move ahead, some dont. Not saying if the cup and saucer works for you, you should change, but if you shoot things a little more "energetically", its not the best choice for recovery and recoil control.



One grip for everything is automatic and I do not have to worry about slide bite or gas cutting with one of my short barrel revolvers.
I agree about using one grip, which I do. I have yet to have any slide bite or gas cutting using the TFG either. My shooting with both autos and revolvers has improved using it too.
 
The teacup grip doesn't take advantage of what a two handed grip can do.
It's mostly a one handed grip with some off hand muscle support.
Like Ak103K said, it's not nearly as effective with recoil control as other methods.
Maybe not so important with slow, single shots, but very much so with rapid fire and muzzle flip control.
Which is why the modern two handed techniques have been, just about, universally adopted - except on tv.
 
I watched the video provided by g.willikers of Shannon Smith demonstrating the proper thumbs forward grip and then went to the range today to follow the example in this video. It made quite an improvement in my shooting
 
g.willikers said:
Which is why the modern two handed techniques have been, just about, universally adopted - except on tv.

Which is lame because there's nothing more annoying in an action movie than watching firearms being mishandled by the "hero" and somehow they still manage to kill one hundred bad guys without getting a scratch.

Not every movie can be John Wick. ;)

A special thanks to Trebor for this thread. It's so refreshing to see something that is genuinely helpful after reading some threads that devolve into a contest involving quantity and projecting distance of urine (got censored for using a swear).
 
The big problem I have using the thumbs forward grip is it doesn't lend itself well if you have long fingers (I'm 6' 7") and are shooting a small to medium frame revolver. If I were to apply that technique to a 3" .357 K frame my support thumb would not enjoy the blast from the barrel to cylinder gap :o . In fact, I think I'd have the same issue on an N frame. Plus the cylinder itself gets in the way, since I take a very high grip with the web of my hand coming up over the back strap. I grip the gun similarly, except I have to angle both thumbs to the left away from the gun. Looks funny, but its what I have to do.
 
Might be an interesting article, but when full page re-directed advertisements get in the way, I abandon the effort. :mad: And yes, I have my pop-up blocker on.
 
If I were to apply that technique to a 3" .357 K frame my support thumb would not enjoy the blast from the barrel to cylinder gap
You can still make use of the the good points of the grip and keep your thumb, by bending the thumb down at the joint, if it moves past the cylinder. Works well for me, even with my J frames.
 
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