My 586 is a softy

D

Don'tkillbill

New member
Unforunately I found out at the range that my 586 (I just got it) doesn't seem to like CCI primers but rather federal. I though, OK tighten up the screw in the handle. Problem is it is tightened all the way. I think a bit too much trigger work has been done on my 586. I will take it down and have a peak inside but what am I looking for and can I get new parts to rebuild this old beaut? I was planning on getting a smith to do some work on the front sights so it looks like for Christmas this year I get a gunsmithing bill under the tree.

Thoughts?

For the meantime I have to find some federal primers cause I love the gun it shoots so nicely.
 
Try a factory weight main spring. For any S&W revolver the only spring I will swap out is the rebound spring, lighting the main spring can compromise reliability. Good news is there pretty cheap so even if that doesn't solve it no water under the bridge.
 
Brownells is your friend. That sounds like an easy thing to try and I have to order an ejector spring for my cz85 so 2 birds with one stone.
 
CCI primers are the hardest of the major brands. Winchesters are better and Federals are the "softest" primers. If you have light springs in your guns, go with Federals every time.
 
50 dollars worth of primers will go a long long long way. I will see if I can do anything about it though but in the mean time I'll try and get a box of federals. I just finished a box and opened cci. Oh well cci for 40 and 9 and federal for 38 specials. I hope the federal magnum primers are soft as well.
 
Here is something you can try on a temporary basis. Take a used primer without its anvil and put it under the strain screw and against the main spring. Then tighten down that strain screw again and give it another try.

You may also want to get a new, factory fresh strain screw to go along with the factory main spring. Just in case a former owner shortened the one in your revolver.
 
Great idea with the primer! That sounds like a good idea for the screw. Anyone ever had to replace their trigger due to too much mucking around?
 
Great idea with the primer! That sounds like a good idea for the screw. Anyone ever had to replace their trigger due to too much mucking around?
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Light primer strikes are never caused by "trigger work" in itself, they are caused by too light of a main-spring strike. However, with trigger work, sometimes(not always), the force of the main-spring has either been reduced by grinding (common before lighter-than-factory main-springs became available), or changing the main -spring for a lighter one or, (God no!), ground the end of the strain screw to make it shorter. It is not of major concern if it is just the main-spring, just order one that is factory equivalent, or the "kit" that has three different weights and see how heavy you have to go to get reliable primer ignition with those tough CCI primers. If it does happen to be a shortened strain screw, the primer-cup trick will work as previously posted albeit, it will add more extra weight to the trigger pull than is absolutely needed (a little over kill). Put the open end of the primer-cup over the end of the strain-screw.
Just remembered something else...I had a stain-screw that the end had begun to flare and the metal was displaced, in effect shortening the strain screw. I used a very small ball pien hammer to swage the flared metal back where it belonged to regain the length that had been lost.
 
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I think the "used primer with no anvil" is a pretty neat idea for a trick! But considering the low cost of a spring pack kit from Wolff, I'd go that route. You can even get standard weight replacement springs and (often), heavier than OEM springs. And they ship cheaply and quickly. Go directly to Wolff's site before you buy from someone who stocks them. Low in cost, IMO.

For me, personally, changing primer brands is not a good solution. I like to use CCI because I've worked up all my loads for them and I can focus on keeping one primer in stock...which is difficult enough these days. I can see that it is certainly an option -- using one particular primer for one particular gun, but it's not a solution that I would chase.
 
I wonder if somebody cut or filed your strain screw for a bubba better trigger like on my 66. I replaced screw problems gone. Btw same problem with light strikes.
 
In the 'ol days...people would bend the mainspring on S&W revolvers to reduce the tension. Then, when the gun wouldn't function they shimmed up the strain screw with a primer cup.
 
The spring set is a great idea and I've looked at the wolff sets and will order a set on payday.

Thanks so much for the advice and encouragement. Its pretty sucky to take your gun to the range and get 5-6 that go click not boom. Going to try the primer cup tonight and see if that will get me buy for a few days.
 
I tried the primer cap and it works. I did a full strip down and I wil get new springs for the gun but for now I got 48 down range with no hickups.
 
I wil get new springs for the gun but for now I got 48 down range with no hickups.
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If the trigger is reseting alright, there is not need to replace the trigger return spring. It has nothing to do with light-strikes and can only increase the trigger pull (if it had been altered or replaced with a lighter one).
 
The trigger return spring must overcome mainspring tension on the return, so it may have to be replaced if a stock mainspring is installed.
 
The trigger return spring must overcome mainspring tension on the return, so it may have to be replaced if a stock mainspring is installed.
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"may" is the keyword here. It may or may not work with the new factory weight spring. Nevertheless, if it were me, I would swap out the mainspring and see if the trigger return was reliable, because when it comes to double-actions, lighter is always better.
 
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